Leaking engine seam

boR1100S · 04-08-2012, 03:20 PM

anyone else have a leaking seam on the bottom of their engine? mine weeps oil, the M6s were loose so all set back to 9nm and I'm hoping that was the cure. About to run a bead of yamabond along the seam after scubbing the hell out of the engine.

Cannot believe a ten year old engine seeps oil, this is the absolute worst place for a leak. I've broken down 35 year old, 100K miles airhead engines that didn't leak!

Hoping maybe some of you have cured the same issue with a little tightening and goop. I'm not that hopeful though...

flatbutt · 04-08-2012, 05:35 PM

bottom seam?

Martin Glasser · 04-08-2012, 05:51 PM

Oil Pan?

hellfishtat · hellfishtat's Garage

Did it start after I saw you yesterday? The reason I ask is my brother, Mac and I all thought you were trailing a little blue smoke when you took off.

Becker (aka HellFishTat)

boR1100S · 04-08-2012, 06:13 PM

Kevin- running a bit rich, still dialing in the dobeck. i keep checking the exhaust cans for oily residue... by the way that corbin is hella nice. so much easier to slide into a curve.

Flat- yep, bottom seam. M6s were probably at 5 nM, instead of 9.

Martin- i wish there was an oil pan, that's easier than sealing up the seam.

boxa · 04-08-2012, 06:26 PM

Just a question out of interest. Have you recently changed to synthetic engine oil?

Thanx
Dave

boR1100S · 04-08-2012, 06:32 PM

yes. yes i did.

boxa · 04-08-2012, 06:49 PM

When I put synthetic engine oil in my 99 R1100S it started to leak from a few places, well more of a few weeps. I changed back to dino oil after putting some engine oil flush through the old girl and most of the weeps have gone, the ones that are still there are just a bit of a smudge on the cases between washes. I think the synthetic oil is too slippery for our old design engines, both internally and as far as sealing. I use any good quality dino oil now and an happy with the performance. Also being cheaper I tend to change it more often (5000km) so there is not really any financial gain.

Thanx
Dave

boR1100S · 04-08-2012, 06:52 PM

may have to go back to dino, I've run synth in it the last 10k and keep having to top it off. site glass started leaking too i noticed this morning.

good advice, thanks.

lender200 · 04-08-2012, 07:02 PM

good luck man

RBMann · 04-09-2012, 07:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by boR1100S

anyone else have a leaking seam on the bottom of their engine? mine weeps oil, the M6s were loose so all set back to 9nm and I'm hoping that was the cure. About to run a bead of yamabond along the seam after scubbing the hell out of the engine.

Cannot believe a ten year old engine seeps oil, this is the absolute worst place for a leak. I've broken down 35 year old, 100K miles airhead engines that didn't leak!

Hoping maybe some of you have cured the same issue with a little tightening and goop. I'm not that hopeful though...

Can we get a better description. Bottom front/back/middle. It is not uncommon for the front timing chain cover to weep. On mine just retightening the bolts did the trick.

BumbleBeemer36 · 08:42 AM

Rick, you don't have a comment on "sight glass started leaking too"?

My bike has an oil weep from just about every seam but after riding an airhead, I figure a leak isn't a leak until its a drip.

bikerfish1100 · 04-09-2012, 09:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by boR1100S

may have to go back to dino, I've run synth in it the last 10k and keep having to top it off. site glass started leaking too i noticed this morning.

good advice, thanks.

where are you "topping it off" to?

there is weeping, seeping, & leaking. which are you talking about? a "leaking" sight glass would have me VERY concerned!

hellfishtat · hellfishtat's Garage

[QUOTE]Kevin- running a bit rich, still dialing in the dobeck. i keep checking the exhaust cans for oily residue... by the way that corbin is hella nice. so much easier to slide into a curve.

I know. I miss it. Can't wait to get the custom Sargent in. Stock really sucks

bikerfish1100 · 09:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by boxa

I think the synthetic oil is too slippery for our old design engines, both internally and as far as sealing. I use any good quality dino oil now and an happy with the performance. Also being cheaper I tend to change it more often (5000km) so there is not really any financial gain.

Thanx
Dave

care to explain what you mean by "too slippery internally"?

i would think that "being cheaper" would lead to less frequent oil change intervals rather than more frequent . And, at a change rate that is only ~50% as long as the manufacturer recommends, i would not call that "being cheaper", on any level whatsoever. you'd do better extending your change interval to at least what BMW recommends (unless you are only riding it 5Km per year, in which case continue as is), if not even extending it closer to 15,000km or more (and that action would be fully supported by the data that comes back from those who have had oil analyses done).

boR1100S · 04:03 PM

RB- The seam that runs front to back along the middle of the block.

BB- If I wanted an oil puddle, I'd buy something that said Harley on it! What sucks is this seam is directly in line with the rear tire.

BF- to the dot on my site glass. You were thinking "to the brim", weren't you?

Stock anything sucks, Kevin!

Cleaned the hell out of the bottom of the engine yesterday, ran a nice bead of yamabond along the bottom about an inch up front and back along the seam. retorqued the M6s. Brought her back up to the dot, still synth in her. Did a 100mile WOT slab run today, let her cool down in the garage- her bottom is clean and dry. Am knocking on any wood i can find.

Thanks guys.
15 posts and not one flame! Is that a record?

LeftCoast Peter · 04-09-2012, 03:41 PM

I had a leaky seam on my HP2S and I retorqued all the small case bolts. They were not to spec. It seems to do the trick.

boxa · 04-09-2012, 07:49 PM

Hey Bikerfish, by cheaper I mean in $ value over a year not me being a cheapskate. 5 lts of full synthetic can set you back $80+ where as 5 lts of good brand dino is around $30. So if I change my oil at 5000km, that works out cheaper.

Our engines are built from a design from the early 1900s, do we need an oil designed for supersonic jet engines? Roller and needle bearings rely on a small amount of friction to work, too little friction can lead to skidding in a less than perfect bearing. And no need to mention full synthetic in a new engine.

This is a bit of light reading on the subject. Can you mix full synthetic with semi synthetic oil

Yes I know, this is just one persons opinion, but I see no reason to use synthetic oil in my bike, thats just my opinion.

Thanx
Dave

boxa · 07:53 PM

Sorry double post

bikerfish1100 · 09:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by boxa

Hey Bikerfish, by cheaper I mean in $ value over a year not me being a cheapskate. 5 lts of full synthetic can set you back $80+ where as 5 lts of good brand dino is around $30. So if I change my oil at 5000km, that works out cheaper. i would certaily not pay $16/liter for synth, but neither would i pay $6/L for dino oil. Castrol makes a number of oils (4T synth and ACT-Evo semi-synth come immediately to mind) that meet spec and are priced better than either of the numbers you used.

Our engines are built from a design from the early 1900s not really, but if you;d like to believe that, go ahead., do we need an oil designed for supersonic jet engines? Roller and needle bearings rely on a small amount of friction to work, too little friction can lead to skidding in a less than perfect bearing. And no need to mention full synthetic in a new engine.

This is a bit of light reading on the subject. Can you mix full synthetic with semi synthetic oil

Yes I know, this is just one persons opinion, but I see no reason to use synthetic oil in my bike, thats just my opinion.

Thanx
Dave

whatever floats your boat.