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Ignition Part #2

Well, got the bike over to the dealer this A.M. Sorry, no recall on the ignition wires. Even though I pointed out that this bike was the first recieved at my dealer in 8/98. And after pointing out how tight the ignition wires were zip locked on the bike with the steering turned to the right.
They wanted $120 labor and $59 for the ignition relay replacement. I said no thanks and bought the relay and got the bike home o.k.
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These pic's explain the initial problem with the wires and how tight they are on the bike with the zip locks.
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These pic's show what the "set-screw" look like with all that red sealant somewhat removed. You must use a jewel size screw driver as the screw is very tiny and needs a sharp edge to unscrew. Once backed out a little the ignition plug drops right out of the socket. (then you turn the socket a little and viola, you've stolen the bike. Assuming you got past the steerting lock.)
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In the back ground the white thing outta focus is the plug. It plugs into the right bank of fuses. Very easy fix. Lot's of add'l wire length stashed in there if you want more slack to these wires. Last pic show what happened to my plug. The red wire was literally hanging by two copper strands. I have removed it for the picture shot. I put the new one on as I don't trust my soldering skills and for $55 out the door a new one was just too easy to throw in there.
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I pose the pic's only for educational purposes so that next time maybe someone else won't have to F-around if they have similiar problem's.
.

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Old 06-20-2002, 12:07 PM
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Got the K&N today. I had my local dealer order it with the SJBMW In-Duct. Just so I didn't have to deal with shipping cost and I got my club discount (10%) off the MSRP SJ BMW charges. With my discount $177 with tax here in CA.
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Per SJBMW the front snorkel fitting is $89 on currently on back order. Lots of orders for these in the Q right now. Can hardly wait to strap these toys in and go riding. The SJBMW In-Duct piece is on the K&N.
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waaaaaa...waaaaa.wwaaaaaaa........
.
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Old 06-20-2002, 12:18 PM
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Thanks, Pat. I saw this comming a couple o' years ago ( don't quite remember what caused me to look there... ) but stress relieved that connector right then and there.
If she comes a cropper, I'll know now what to do!

jeff
ps - pat: goin' to the track this weekend...?
Old 06-20-2002, 02:48 PM
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Jeff,
Not going this weekend. I'm still learning how to ride with my permit and all. Don't know enough about bikes to be on a tracke. Don't want to chance anything. Tell me though when is everyone going to be there?? Maybe I'll ride over there and say hi (just about 30 miles away from me) Let me know.
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Below are some pic's of the OEM snorkel (cut in half for research purposes) at its narrowest point. Very tiny in thar. Don't mention what else it looks like. We don't want to offend anyone here.
.
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Old 06-20-2002, 03:04 PM
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Wow! Awesome picks PDonnell!

Thanks for the info to remove the ignition switch wire. All the "S"'s I've seen are cracked at the top as well.

Weird thing happened to my S today. Died as I came to a light while trying to turn right. I will check the connections underneath the switch as I believe it was switch related. I have noticed the strain on this wire but my concerns (Until now) did not prompt me to investigate further. (Not to mention I failed to see the set screw....)
Checked the kick Stand switch, although visual, probable cause, micro switch?

Thanks
Tomas
Old 06-20-2002, 06:37 PM
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I'm offended!!!

What disgusting pictures!!!

The nerve of someone to choke our air flow like that!!!

Had trouble with my garage door opener also!! It caused the wires to my horn to pull out. I had to use my throttle to warn sleep walkers that I'm present!(TBR).

Can you ride on the highway after dark with your learners permit?

Show up Pat and a cold beer is all yours!!

Old 06-21-2002, 07:42 AM
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Cool

Holy schit! You cut up a perfectly good stock duct?
Old 06-21-2002, 01:23 PM
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Perfectly Good Duct? Don't think so. Replaced with a perfectly good (opened) rear duct.
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Stock snorkel is still on. You don't buy a great Air Filter and leave that piece of **** OEM duct on it.
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Want to buy some pieces of a perfectly good Duct? Lemmee know.
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Old 06-21-2002, 02:00 PM
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If you replaced it with a good rear duct, where did you get one and can you show me a picture of what it looks like?

-ChaZ
Old 08-26-2005, 04:42 AM
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Jeese-I'm feeling short of breath just looking at that sliced view. Unreal.
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Old 08-26-2005, 05:44 AM
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you may wish to take a grinder or sander to the ugly outside seam on the SJ induct to get a much more comfy fit when it's all put back together. I also added a piece of felt with self-adhesive backing where the SJ duct and the side panel are in closest contact. just a thought....
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Old 08-26-2005, 06:29 AM
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I hope its back together since that was back in 1992...
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Old 08-26-2005, 06:45 AM
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So I'm a little out of date...it's not the 1st time!!
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Old 08-26-2005, 06:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Ben B.
1. Cut holes over three areas with constrictions.

2. Cover with fiberglass.

If cover with fiberglass, is that supposed to increase the space inside for increased airflow?

-ChaZ
Old 08-26-2005, 12:17 PM
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Thats just to match the red thingie on the throttle!
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Old 08-26-2005, 12:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Ben B.
I forgot to mention that this mod should not be attempted by persons with an IQ below 80 or by those who waste everybody's time with posts whose only purpose is to display attempts at cleverness. I can't tell which applies here.
Excuse me for asking a question. I only just want to learn more.

-ChaZ
Old 08-26-2005, 08:58 PM
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No problem Xa3. You didn't deserve that kinda crap answer.
Please understand the vast majority of the board members here are more helpful, and nearly all the long term ones. Always feel free to ask. Searching is good too, but if that fails, ask away.
You shouldn't have to feel a need to excuse yourself. Sorry about that.

take care
Roger
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Old 08-26-2005, 09:07 PM
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jeeze Ben. that was rude, even for you. you really, truly are a bully. interesting mod though.
L
Old 08-26-2005, 10:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Ben B.
Sorry for my hasty hostile answer. I fell out of bed in the middle of the night (2:10 AM) and returned to the list to remove it - sorry again. My initial impression was that the answer was so obvous that nobody could be asking it seriously but only to flame. I should have given the questioner the benefit of the doubt instead of supposing the post was just a flame. Sometimes I ask questions which seem naive and disengenuous to others and so I have been accused of sarcasm or worse.

The answer is: two of the cut-outs are bumps into the air flow which don't seem needed and the third (the large outside cutout) you create a contour making more room inside. These are the three places which seem most constricted and are readily corrected patched and addressing any or all helps.

As with any mod suggestion from me, you shouldn't think the mod is any good until the design passes through your own critical thinking. That's why I don't go into details or provide dimensions - I think others can do it better if they give more/better thought to it than I did.

My conscience is a bit relieved and now I'll go back to bed.
Apology accepted.

The reason why I asked the question was because I remember you said that you would install the fiberglass inside the duct.

I thought that if you install the fiberglass "inside" of the duct, it would defeat the purpose unless you were able to press the installed fiberglass outward to make it more bubblish and thus increasing the air space inside?

I thought it would be simple just to put fiberglass on the outside of that modded duct. However, I'm still not able to figure out how to make fiberglass stay on it if installed outside...

-ChaZ
Old 08-26-2005, 10:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Ben B.
Haven't quite gotten back to bed....

Yes, in two places the stock duct is oddly thick and so it makes sense to work from the inside. But the original surface was a big indention and the final fiberglass occupies only a wee bit inside. All self-evident when the duct is in your hands but hard to explain in words. After laying a layer of resin-filled cloth on the inside surface, you can slosh some resin into the hole cavity from the outside.

Before bolting together you may need to sand, fill, and do the other usual tasks associated with amateur 'glassing as I practice it.

The stock unit is strong, the fiberglass patches strong too, and the result, if not pretty, seems pretty servicable.

When done, the fairing side might be pushed out a quarter-inch or so - not detectable or intrusive.
Ah, thanks for clearing that up! Now I completely understand...

-ChaZ

Old 08-26-2005, 11:39 PM
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