No Start Problem - 1999 R1100S

[bcscott]

Hello All,
I have a 1999 R1100S which won't start. The day the problem occurred I filled the tank in the morning, rode for about 20 miles with no issues. About 4 hours later, rode about 2 miles and while idling at the intersection, the bike died and I had to haul it home. I noticed in prior months that when I hit the throttle hard at about 3000 rpm, it would bog and jump pretty bad... almost like it was dead until I let off the throttle a little... but this didn't happen all the time.

Here's what I've done so far:

• changed spark plugs - also checked for and found spark by grounding each plug to head while trying to start
• checked air filter - also tried starting without air filter in
• pulled each fuel injector and while trying to start noticed fuel mist/spray
• battery appears to have full charge as my battery tender shows green
• with everything back together, still no start... not even a pop... did try a small amount of starting fluid in each cylinder and got just a few pops.

I've read on a few forums that the Hall sensor might be a problem, but one thing I'm confused about is if I'm getting spark and fuel, why I wouldn't at least get a pop when trying to start.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Brian

[JimMoore]

I bet you have a line blown off in the fuel tank. OR a split line in the tank which finally split so far that the bike quit. Or just a bad fuel filter. If you have spark you HES is good, I'm pretty sure.

Before you pull your tank off I'd check all my fuses and relays and make sure they're press in all the way.

[CoffeeGuy]

I had the bogging, slogging issue you describe. After many months and wasted money, it turned out to be a slipping rotor on the crankshaft pulley. The rotor that spins about the hall sensor needs to be screwed and glued, with loctite black max. Once I did that, it was fine. Probably not your problem, but if I mention it in every bogging down bike thread one day I'll look like a hero!

[brentw1]

have compression?
check the ignition timing.

[bcscott]

Thanks Guys,
Will check fuses, slipping rotor, tank lines, and compression/timing... will be a learning experience for me, which I'm up for... haven't done compression or timing before so may take me some time to get back.
Thanks again!

[RIQUE]

Did you check the emergency cut out on the handle bar?

[CoffeeGuy]

Originally Posted by RIQUE

Did you check the emergency cut out on the handle bar?

I've been there...

[sgoodwin]

It's called a "kill" switch in these parts of the woods, Rique.

[RIQUE]

Originally Posted by sgoodwin

It's called a "kill" switch in these parts of the woods, Rique.

I put together the words kill and woods and I´m thinking deep inside Appalachia which is OK then.

[bcscott]

Hello All,
Thanks again for the help... just providing an update as to where I'm at now.
- pressed relays and fuses in all the way
- drained tank, replaced fuel filter, lines looked good, filled with new fuel
Tried starting again, but no luck... turns over still, but no cough/pop.

My next steps will be to check the slipping rotor, check timing and compression... can anyone point me to good references for timing and compression. What I've seen so far for timing assumes the bike can be started. CoffeeGuy, in regard to the slipping rotor and use of loctite... do you mean the screw that goes through 2 and 3 of the below graphic?

https://goo.gl/photos/4dk3CdzqZ63kiGB67

Thanks again for all your help,
Brian

[Groceryrun]

Yes, the rotor is #2 in the illustration.
There is a notch in the rotor or pulley so that they seat together before screwing down or tightening the bolt.

I always wondered why BMW didn't just tack weld the two together.

[CoffeeGuy]

Originally Posted by bcscott

Hello All,
Thanks again for the help... just providing an update as to where I'm at now.
- pressed relays and fuses in all the way
- drained tank, replaced fuel filter, lines looked good, filled with new fuel
Tried starting again, but no luck... turns over still, but no cough/pop.

My next steps will be to check the slipping rotor, check timing and compression... can anyone point me to good references for timing and compression. What I've seen so far for timing assumes the bike can be started. CoffeeGuy, in regard to the slipping rotor and use of loctite... do you mean the screw that goes through 2 and 3 of the below graphic?

https://goo.gl/photos/4dk3CdzqZ63kiGB67

Thanks again for all your help,
Brian

The Loctite Black Max 380 is an adhesive, and isn't applied to the screw. It's applied to bond #2 and #3 together in the photo you posted above.

Crack them open, clean the surfaces, and re-adhere them together. Somewhere in the tech manual it says to use the black max stuff. Might as well get a new belt on there too while you're in there.

[ckcarr]

Probably a tired battery. how olden is it?