Mileage / consumption - normal?

[Roger 04 RT]

Originally Posted by victorlaszlo

So are you saying all markets, irrespectively of fuel quality, catalysator or not, standard or performance mufflers had all the same plugs...?

That's what I'm saying based on all the GS-911 data that I've seen. To be positive that there wasn't a Japan plug, for example, you'd need to read your Motronic. However, I doubt a low octane R1100S since your engine is higher compression than an R1150GS.

Originally Posted by victorlaszlo

Exhaust I'd done up really well and tight, if there was any leak it would have to be minimal and shouldn't really be able to mess up the consumption to this level...

A leak of air could, as could a defective O2. But as others have said, dragging brakes (even a little), riding gear and RPM, high idle can all have an effect.

Originally Posted by victorlaszlo

My mechanic did in fact plug the bike in to the computer and all readings were normal...

If you had an air leak or air reversion (air coming back through the end of the exhaust), it would be invisible to computer equipment because the Motronic does not report its long term trims.

It may well be something else but unless it is mechanical (e.g. dragging brakes) you'll need a GS-911 to find it.

[Roger 04 RT]

Originally Posted by victorlaszlo

One step in the right direction - Roger, your suspicion is confirmed - it runs like a pig on the stage three on the diagram


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What color is the coding plug that came with your bike? Which contacts have pins on the plug (e.g. 30, 86, etc.)?

[victorlaszlo]

It came with none ;(


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[Roger 04 RT]

Also BTW, every time you change coding plug you need to relearn the throttle: key on, rotate throttle fully twice, key off.

[victorlaszlo]

Originally Posted by Roger 04 RT

Also BTW, every time you change coding plug you need to relearn the throttle: key on, rotate throttle fully twice, key off.

Done that, no difference...

Resulted: surge/trying to choke itself between 2000 and 2800 Rom, some loss of power it feels like, smoother running high revs, almost no popping and idle down to 900...




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[Roger 04 RT]

Originally Posted by victorlaszlo

Done that, no difference...

Resulted: surge/trying to choke itself between 2000 and 2800 Rom, some loss of power it feels like, smoother running high revs, almost no popping and idle down to 900...




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Remember, it takes several tanks of gasoline through the engine before the Motronic fully adjusts to conditions. So you can't really tell how a plug will perform for quite a while. Personally, I wouldn't waste my time looking for a coding plug fix.

[victorlaszlo]

Originally Posted by Roger 04 RT

Remember, it takes several tanks of gasoline through the engine before the Motronic fully adjusts to conditions. So you can't really tell how a plug will perform for quite a while. Personally, I wouldn't waste my time looking for a coding plug fix.

Ok, I'll keep the bridge for some days and see if it improves.

Why wouldn't you waste time...?


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[Roger 04 RT]

Because changing the coding plug isn't the solution to your problem. The stock plug is best. When you change that plug you select a not-best fueling and spark table from which the Motronic will attempt to recover. Your problem re:mileage, popping is elsewhere.

[victorlaszlo]

But if that's the case why would the same bike have different plugs in Europe and the US? Or a bike without a cat a different plug in the same market than one with a cat?


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[Roger 04 RT]

Originally Posted by victorlaszlo

But if that's the case why would the same bike have different plugs in Europe and the US? Or a bike without a cat a different plug in the same market than one with a cat?


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Minor emissions differences. The key question, which can be determined with GS-911, does your Motronic have multiple R1100S coding plug configurations.

[victorlaszlo]

Originally Posted by Roger 04 RT

Minor emissions differences. The key question, which can be determined with GS-911, does your Motronic have multiple R1100S coding plug configurations.

Hmm.... I've read that no cat plug = limp home mode. Did the early 1999) single plug bikes have a plug installed in the UK?

The change yesterday had quite a big impact on performance which I wouldn't expect if the plug doesn't do anything.... Unfortunately i Don't have the pc911 but is there any reading GS you are interested I. To complete your tables? Perhaps I could borrow one and help out


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[Roger 04 RT]

Originally Posted by victorlaszlo

Hmm.... I've read that no cat plug = limp home mode. Did the early 1999) single plug bikes have a plug installed in the UK?

The change yesterday had quite a big impact on performance which I wouldn't expect if the plug doesn't do anything.... Unfortunately i Don't have the pc911 but is there any reading GS you are interested I. To complete your tables? Perhaps I could borrow one and help out


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No plug isn't limp home mode. In the data I presented earlier in the thread, no plug means a type of R1150GS. I don't know about the UK. It is possible that the 8 coding plug variants are different on the Motronic MA 2.4 EPROM, than what I've measured so far.

In the early R1100GS/RT/R models, no plug meant no catalytic or O2 sensor. It fueled a bit richer. Such a mode isn't in the R1150, R1100S.

Changing the plug does do something, it's just that usually it isn't an improvement.

If you borrowed a GS-911, and used a feature it has called autoscan, you could start with no plug, then autoscan and save the report, then put in each of the other 7 jumper combinations and autoscan them as well. Then we could see what each of the 8 configs did on the R1100S.

What year is your bike? Is it twin spark?

[victorlaszlo]

It's a 1999 single spark Mandarin bike with 18k miles, 15 when I got it in the summer


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[hugzy]

Originally Posted by Roger 04 RT

The information in the link is not correct unless your Motronic has been altered using a new EPROM from the company that made the chart--I forget if it's BBPowerchip or someone else.

Generally, if your bike has a Motronic MA 2.4 you get the best performance with the stock (correct) coding plug.

At the bottom of the page, last post, link below, is a list of which plugs for which bikes:

Coding Plugs for R1100, R1150 Decoded - BMWSportTouring Forums

As I said it works fine for me. You can buy a plug but it does the same thing as a piece of wire.

[hugzy]

Mine is a 2001 single spark with cat removed, and co2 sensor and straight through exhaust, It had no plug when I got it , it sounded quite hollow, poped all the time and lerched on the overrun, after making the plug connections the sound was much crisper and there is no more poping or lerching and the fuel consumption is really quite good, 1liter to 19.4 km, last time I filled up, and most of all it goes really well. Must say ive never compared it to another 1100S but ive got a 1200r and a couple of other big bikes and the 1100s not any the less a performer. Comes from Ireland apparently.

[Roger 04 RT]

Originally Posted by hugzy

Mine is a 2001 single spark with cat removed, and co2 sensor and straight through exhaust, It had no plug when I got it , it sounded quite hollow, poped all the time and lerched on the overrun, after making the plug connections the sound was much crisper and there is no more poping or lerching and the fuel consumption is really quite good, 1liter to 19.4 km, last time I filled up, and most of all it goes really well. Must say ive never compared it to another 1100S but ive got s 1200r and a couple of other big bikes and the 1100s is not any the less a performer. Comes from Ireland apparently.

Hugzy, The thing to do is for someone to read out the configs of the R1100S using a GS-911. That would end the speculation.

No plug in your bike probably wouldn't work well as that is usually for the R1150GS, a different engine.

You mention a co2 sensor. Do you mean O2 sensor or CO potentiometer?

When you made your two-pin jumper, which two pins did you connect together? Even though the chart you included in your earlier post is not correct for any stock BMW bike, you may have jumped the two pins that selects the R1100S map or one that is just better than a no-plug R1150GS.

[hugzy]

I cant remember what numbers I had to connect but it was the stage 3 drawing on the scan for the straight through exhaust. Victorlaszlo, to relearn the throttle you must remove the motronic fuse first, just take if out for a couple of seconds and replace it, then with the ignition on slowly open and close the throttle twice. then turn off the ign. "This was my experience" My bike tickes over like a clock, when I open the throttle a small amount I can ride away softly and smoothly , no problems in the traffic jams but if I wanna gun it Just whack it open and its like a catapult it flys and I still get good fuel consumption, well maybe not if I'm gunning it but I don't do that much, too many speed traps around here ! Coicidentally in my Haynes workshop manual the bike they are working on also doesn't have a code plug but it's not an "S" cos its under the saddle. Sorry Roger I did mean the o2 sensor. After I made the connections I realized just how poor my bike was running ! (compared to now)

[hugzy]

https://www.dropbox.com/s/s5i3gix5kdbu567/11s%20exhaust.jpg?dl=0


Don't know what make the exhaust is ? Guy that had it before me said it came from south Africa he didn't know anything else about it !

[Roger 04 RT]

The reset time for the Motronic is 5 minutes and usually I wait 10. Remove the Motronic fuse or disconnect the battery.

There's a trick you can use if you want a shorter time. Remove the coding plug, then key on, key off. Replace the coding plug.

Then however you reset the Motronic key on, rotate the throttle fully twice, key off.

Originally Posted by roger 04 rt

The Motronic MA 2.4 can be reset by removing Fuse 5 or disconnecting the battery. Resetting clears out fueling corrections know as Lambda Control Factors and Long Term Fuel trims. Resetting also clears out the TPS voltage range which has to be relearned by rotating the throttle fully from stop to stop with the key on, engine not running, immediately after reset. Today I stumbled upon a third function that can be cleared, an Immobilizer function--a software lock that keeps the R1150 from starting.

By stumbling on the Immobilzer function I was able to measure how long Fuse 5 (or the battery) has to be removed until the Motronic is reset.

Backing up for a minute, I've had a new HES on hand for over 6 months and finally got around to installing it. The project requires pulling the plastic, fuel tank, alternator belt, crankshaft pulley and then the HES. Everything is reinstalled in reverse order, including re-tensioning the alternator belt to 8 NM, retorqueing to spec half a dozen bolts, and in my case replacing the alternator belt tensioning mechanism due to damaging it last time I tensioned the belt.

It was time consuming enough that I decided to attach the GS-911 and test the new HES before reinstalling the fuel tank. The new HES tested fine and just as I was wrapping up the phone rang and I stopped for lunch. An hour later I went back out, installed the fuel tank, removed the flywheel locking pin and hit the starter button to check the engine before buttoning everything up. Five tries with the starter button produced the same result: DOA, not as much as a stumble.

To make things more complicated I had redressed the wire harness running from the left handle bar because its sheathing had cracked and split.

I had that sick feeling, what had I broken: was my new HES bad, had I broken a wire in the redressed harness, or was there a problem with the fuel tank reinstall. Checked the fuel line return volume, plenty of fuel. Checked the sidestand, and RID display, all normal. Fuel pump on with key on. Wiggled the wire harness. Had the GS-911 HES test glitched the Motronic? Fuse 5 pulled for half a minute. Nothing, nada.

Forty-five minutes later it hit me, the GS-911 HES test must have locked out the Motronic. It had, and there was a simple GS-911 procedure to unlock it. Touched the starter button, cranked over once or twice, it fired right up.

The Motronic has an Immobilzer function whose state is saved in memory.

After sleeping on it I realized that I had stumbled on a way to know for sure that the Motronic was reset. A way to know that the Adaptives for fueling were cleared. I went back out to the garage and put the bike into HES test mode and tried to start the bike. No go.

To figure out the time required for a full reset, I pulled Fuse 5 for 15 seconds, 30 seconds, one minute and two minutes. In each case, the bike could not be started, therefore the memory had not been reset because the Motronic still had enough charge to keep the memory alive. Finally I pulled Fuse 5 for 5 minutes, reinstalled it, hit the start button and the bike fired right up. So to reset the Motronic, at least 5 minutes--to be sure I'd leave the fuse out 10 minutes, then reinstall and relearn the TPS range.

Motronic MA 2.4 Reset Time: Remove Fuse 5 for 10 minutes. This also means if you're quick you can disconnect battery ground briefly without resetting the Motronic.

[bradzdotcom]

Originally Posted by hugzy

https://www.dropbox.com/s/s5i3gix5kdbu567/11s%20exhaust.jpg?dl=0


Don't know what make the exhaust is ? Guy that had it before me said it came from south Africa he didn't know anything else about it !

looks a whole lot like a set of Staintune mufflers.