Sub frame and front fairing bracket (R11S)

[victorlaszlo]

Hiw much work is involved in removing these?

Can the rear sub frame be removed with exhausts still fitted (have a poor bolt making exhaust removal impossible)?

Many thanks V


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[wswartzwel]

Yes.

[sgoodwin]

Hours, days ,weeks, months maybe even years, sorta depends on how fast you work. Seriously, you should be able to get both off in a few hours along with a brew or 2 included. There's no such thing as an impossible to remove bolt though, you just need to attack it with the right weapons; easy outs, reverse drills, penetrating oil & heat usually prevail, if not there's always vice grips & hammers.

[victorlaszlo]

Originally Posted by wswartzwel

Yes.

I mean fitted to the Y-piece, remaining on the bike?


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[victorlaszlo]

Originally Posted by sgoodwin

Hours, days ,weeks, months maybe even years, sorta depends on how fast you work. Seriously, you should be able to get both off in a few hours along with a brew or 2 included. There's no such thing as an impossible to remove bolt though, you just need to attack it with the right weapons; easy outs, reverse drills, penetrating oil & heat usually prevail, if not there's always vice grips & hammers.

The bolt is jammed and I can feel the head moving with no movement of the bolt. Any more force and the head will snap. It's the RH lower bolt holding the Y-piece to the header ;(




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[sgoodwin]

It's already broken, might as well fix it. Pretty sure you have or will have an exhaust leak.

[victorlaszlo]

I can't see how I could possibly get it out... Only If someone managed to weld on a new head without having the heat damaging surrounding area and hoping the heat would set it free... Should The head snap I'm truly screwed as there's no way to get a drill in there due to lack on space ;(


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[sgoodwin]

First a positive attitude, of course you can get it out. I'd start with penetrating oil & let it sit awhile then use a propane torch to get it really hot, glowing red. Tap on it a little with a small hammer to try & break the bond then slowly turn the head, it will probably break off but it's already broken & you gave it a good try before it gets more fun. From there you're going to have to remove the muffler & connector pipe from the bike unless you can drill it out on the bike because you're going to have to drill out the broken bolt in the flange. either way try a reverse drill first, sometimes you get lucky. If not it's time for an easy-out. Drill it to fit the easy-out then more oil & heat before trying to budge it. When that fails just drill the threaded screw out trying not to completely destroy the threads in the flange, if you do you'll end up having to thread it up to the next size or say "f" it & get another flange. Simple.

[bradzdotcom]

well this little group loves a cluster flock, so it'll get solved.

what happens if you try to loosen that bolt?

you might end up with a very small chisel, creating a notch, turning the bolt head a tad, new notch, turn, etc... you can walk the bolt around that way.

question: after that Y, does it branch back out into two pipes on the way up and to the mufflers, or does it stay as a single pipe and split under the seat, just before the mufflers?

[RBMann]

Just drill the head off then remove the Y pipe. You will then have a stud to clamp onto for removal and the Y pipe will be off the bike making it easier to work on.

[viggen]

Maybe I'm not understanding the problem correctly, but if the head was to break off, wouldn't that mean there is nothing holding the two pieces together anymore ie. you can just pull the pipe off (after loosening the other bolt that is).

[victorlaszlo]

Fitting these exhausts was an absolute nightmare and took a lot of elbow grease and 2 people a good day, so I was hoping to avoid dealing with it, making the removal of the sub frame easy, have it off for powder coating and just refitting it, exhausts in place....

Removing the headers is likely similarly challenging as these bolts seem quite corroded as well, and what's the statistical likelihood that all four of them will come out with no problem...?

[victorlaszlo]

Originally Posted by sgoodwin

First a positive attitude, of course you can get it out.

Cheers mate, appreciate it!

Originally Posted by sgoodwin

I'd start with penetrating oil & let it sit awhile then use a propane torch to get it really hot, glowing red. Tap on it a little with a small hammer to try & break the bond then slowly turn the head

Yeah, tried it so far

Originally Posted by sgoodwin

either way try a reverse drill first, sometimes you get lucky. If not it's time for an easy-out. Drill it to fit the easy-out then more oil & heat before trying to budge it. When that fails just drill the threaded screw out trying not to completely destroy the threads in the flange

I've never had any luck with either method in the past, especially not the easy-outs (has anyone?)...

Originally Posted by sgoodwin

if you do you'll end up having to thread it up to the next size or say "f" it & get another flange. Simple.

The flange is stainless and as far as I can recall welded - are they really practically changeable?

Cheers V

[victorlaszlo]

Originally Posted by bradzdotcom

what happens if you try to loosen that bolt?

It's rock solid... My own fault really, half a year ago when fitting the exhausts I re-used the old bolts while awaiting new fresh stainless ones. Once arrived all but this one came out with no problem, duh!

Originally Posted by bradzdotcom

you might end up with a very small chisel, creating a notch, turning the bolt head a tad, new notch, turn, etc... you can walk the bolt around that way.

Haven't tried this yet, good idea, will see if there is any space to try that out tomorrow

Originally Posted by bradzdotcom

question: after that Y, does it branch back out into two pipes on the way up and to the mufflers, or does it stay as a single pipe and split under the seat, just before the mufflers?

It's not really an Y-piece, more an X, where they split out into two separate pipes and into the mufflers - why?

[victorlaszlo]

Originally Posted by viggen

Maybe I'm not understanding the problem correctly, but if the head was to break off, wouldn't that mean there is nothing holding the two pieces together anymore ie. you can just pull the pipe off (after loosening the other bolt that is).

Yes, correct, if it snaps just by the head then the remaining stub could possibly be attached with some self grip pliars, but there's no guarantee it wont snap again ;(

[JimMoore]

Same thing happened to me. I ended up buying a used exhaust from an inmate because I couldn't figure out how to get the body of the bolt out. It snapped off flush. It became an annual maintenance item after that. I would remove those bolts one at a time and coat them with anti-seize on an annual basis.

[sgoodwin]

The flange is stainless and as far as I can recall welded - are they really practically changeable?

Cheers V[/QUOTE]

Yeah, sorry they are welded on & not replaceable unless a new one could be machined & welded on in it's place. A couple new skills to learn.

[flatbutt]

this is what had to be done with mine

[victorlaszlo]

Let's hope it doesn't have to get to that...

So removing the subframe keeping the exhaust fitted to the headers is not possible?

What about the front fairing bracket - how much of a nightmare is that to remove?


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[Meeni]

The front fairing is easy to remove, in general terms. Bolts are not jammed in general, so it's pretty simple. Take pictures of the wiring harness and how it all routes around, that's the most time consuming and error prone part of it. Remove all the tupperware, then the mirrors, then pull the headlight and the front fairing, then you have access to everything.

The rear cannot be removed without removing the muffler cans. The rest you can work around easily, and the wire harness is a lot simpler (and can be kept in place for the most part).