I think I have the dreaded oil separator problem

[Zeke]

Last 2 starts: big cloud, not the now and then puff.

Idle not stable, not always, but at times over the last 30 miles.

This all reported by my wife, the principle driver. I did witness the smoke this morning. No CEL, but I'll check for codes in the morning with my Durametric.

So, what's to keep me from buying an oil separator on a speculation?

The car is parked for now until I resolve the issue> I have read this can be terminal if not addressed immediately.

God, do I love my old POS truck that now is the wife's (car).

[Wayne 962]

I've got the instructions for check this located here: Pelican Technical Article: Air / Oil Separator - 986 Boxster (1997-04) - 987 Boxster (2005-08)

You need to check the vacuum on the crankcase by removing the oil cap while the car is running. If there is a tremendous amount of vacuum (I.E. the cap is difficult to remove), then you have a problem with the air-oil separator. You can also remove the hose between the throttle body and the separator and plug both holes to see if your symptoms go away.

-Wayne

[Zeke]

Thanks, Wayne!!

[s_wilwerding]

If you do it yourself, here are some more tips that go a little beyond the "how do you do it" instructions (copied from another forum I posted to last fall):

Just changed my AOS over the weekend - car had been starting to put out clouds of blue smoke on startup.

I used Mike Focke's directions, which on the whole are excellent, but for those doing it themselves, I thought I would offer a few more tips so you don't waste as much time as I did.

When you disconnect the J-tube and the outboard tube from the AOS, there is a little clip that you are supposed to press as you pull it off. I found it easier, especially on the outboard tube, to use a small flat screwdriver to wedge open the clip as you pull the tube off. Much easier than trying to squeeze with one hand and pull with the other.

As for the hose clip at the bottom - I found the easiest way was to get everything else loose and cut the bellows on the old AOS. Then, you have access from the top of the engine to the hose clamp, and can easily get it off.

Putting the new one - the hardest part for me was trying to get the elbow tube at the bottom to seat - you can't really get your hand down on the outboard side of the new AOS to put any kind of leverage on it. I ended up getting the elbow in, then using a long piece of wood underneath and tapping with a mallet to seat the elbow. Next, make sure to line up the bolts and put them in, but don't tighten them.

As for the lower hose clamp, I decided to re-use it - before installing on the new AOS, I opened the clamp and wrapped a 12-gauge wire around the ends to keep the clamp open. When you re-install, it's a tight fit, but I found that by lubricating the lower tube with oil, the new bellows slip right on. Then, you just unwind or cut the wire, and the hose clamp springs tight. Then, tighten the two screws.

Finally, I found that getting the outboard hose to go back in was best done from the bottom - again, there isn't really enough space from the top to get your hand outboard of it to get any leverage, so I reached up from underneath to snap it on.

That's about it - the J-tube snaps right in, and the car runs great now (even better than before it started smoking).

Using these tips, you should be able to shave about an hour off of the install time - if I had to do it again, I could probably do it in around an hour total.

[Zeke]

From Wayne's article:

"The later-style units are a direct bolt-on replacement, but the hose that connects the air-oil separator to the throttle body has been updated as well (the old one is a little too short). If you are replacing your air-oil separator with a new one, be sure to install the updated connecting hose as well."

Steve, did you do this? What's the PN?

[s_wilwerding]

The part numbers I used last fall were:

AOS 996-107-023-04
Vent Line 996-107-145-06

The bellows come with the AOS.

[Wayne 962]

Yes, that was a late addition to the book. I didn't include the PN in the book because it may change in the future.

-Wayne

[Zeke]

I don't recommend this job for the average DIY'r unless you have a lot of tools, know how to improvise and don't mind some pain. For an older guy with shoulders that go "creak," this is a bear.

First of all, if you have a 2000-2004 e-gas model, don't buy a J tube. I did on the recommendation of PP and will have to return it losing shipping and restocking fees. The '00-04 uses a Y tube and as far as I can tell, no modification is needed.

My replacement separator is exactly the same externally as the one that came out (an 01 vs the new 04) except the o-rings that insert into the case are improved.

If you know how to disconnect some electrical connections (and I always forget the secret to those), you can get some things out of the way that interfere with the outward hose. That one is a btch.

On advice from other sources like Mike Focke, I intentionally destroyed the bellows connection which comes new with the new part. However, in doing so, you will get trash in the case. Be ready to figure out how to evacuate the junk that falls into the opening. I will use a shop vac with an attachment.

Another area to be aware of is the place where the separator inserts into the engine case. Rubbing around trying to get things aligned with get the tip of the separator dirty and now you've put some more dirt into your motor.

Better to clean this area beforehand.

I'll let you know how the new part goes in. I learned the above just getting the old part out, about an hour. And, I'm sore, so tomorrow is another day.

[Alphaboy1]

Gents... This issue makes me nervous. I just bought a 2002 Boxster S with 45,000 miles and do not see this issue presently. What is the odds this will happen? I never take my car above 5000 RPMs as I am not a fast driver.

[Zeke]

Well, it's an external part, so it's not like the RMS and bearing. And there are other things to worry about. However, 2002 is better than 1998-9.

[Zeke]

Finished the job. I can say it would have been much easier with 2 people. But, improvisation and lots of extensions for the socket set and it will get done with not too many bruised knuckles.

If you have real short arms, forget it.