Cv boot replacement

[King claw]

I'm new to DIY autos inspired by this forum. We have a 2001 Boxster S with 52,000 miles. I changed the oil, plugs and transition fulid last weel. Noticed the inner CV boot was torn on the left side. Searching through the forum here I see it recommended to change the whole axle? Seams expensive to me considering the axle s/b good for 100,000 miles. I'm thinking of replacing the CV joint and boot being I have no idea how long the joint has been exposed. Would it make sense or even possible to change the O/S boot at the same time? Can this be done w/o pulling the axle out? Should I take care of the right side now or wait it out.

Thank you.

BTW. Great service from Pelican here!

[Miguel Antonett]

Do a forum search, lots of info there...

You don't have to change the entire axle, unless something is wrong with it or you don't want to get dirty/grease. You can replace the boot and grease only w/o problem. If the CV joint is dry or clunky you should replace it also - while you're there... Hard to get it done w/o pulling the axle out, but it can be done. Easy BUT Messy job!!!

[Turd]

I replaced driver's side in December 2011. I did entire axle as new axle complete with u joints and boots was $123.00. Ended up doing the passenger side two weeks ago! Replaced entire axle again. First axle took 6 hours second axle took 3 hours. Three tips, lower sway bar that's in the way, you'll see. Take off catalytic converter heat shield (3 screws) and remove segment of exhaust from three bolts after head pipe to sleeve between catalytic converter and muffler. Job is so much easier if you do this. I'm no where near a mechanic and I found this to be a fairly easy job on the second side! My Boxster S has 69,000 km 55,000 miles when the boots tore.

[KentV]

http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/117-cv-boot-replacement/


Here's a link to replacing those axles. It wasn't too bad.

[Pinarelloman]

Common issue with S models due to 6 speed box.
Discovered my left inner torn at 1430 one afternoon when preparing car for weekend away. Fixed 3 hrs later (boot replaced)
A few tips.
Lower the two rear sway bar mounts.
I found it easier to drop the exhaust off the head and lower it down from the rear muffler. Watch you don't break the o2 sensor wire.
The CV will only go together one way. The drive spline and cage must be around the right way or you get no articulation and will not be able to reinstall the axle. I test fitted mine dry before greasing.
Make sure when you are ready to torque up the bolts and schnorr (half moon) washers that you degrease the bolt threads after pushing them through the CV body and then low strength Loctite them. You dont want them coming undone. I also mark the torqued bolts with a black marker pen so I can check if they are coming loose.
I did not worry about trying to keep track of which balls go where, or the drive spline,cv body position.

[dghii]

I did mine with a boot kit...$40 for all four boots. Its a messy job and working on suspension stuff always seems to wear me out I did not remove any exhaust pieces. I just removed the ball joint and other pieces from the wheel carrier and pushed the axle out of the hub.