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Timing Chain Problem Boxster
I have a 2005 Boxster and have a huge problem. The timing chain guide rail pivot pin thread portion has broken inside the crank case. I can see it with a borescope - the goal is to recover it without pulling the engine. Any ideas are appreciated.
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Earth.............
Posts: 2,877
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If it had dropped, it is not going to be easy as it depends upon where it got to. I'd try magnetic or mechanical pick up tools attached to the bore scope, but it is going to be hard to grab. If the treaded section is still in place in the case, dropping the engine is your only real option.
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Timing chain
Yes definitely ugly. The stud is broke however there is a slight bit of it exposed. I have tried to grab it but no luck thus far. I have a few ideas before I give up even if they are long shots.
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Join Date: Aug 2010
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Sorry, but I think there is no realistic way to grasp one snapped off with the engine assembled and in the car.............
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Sorry, but I think there is no realistic way to grasp one snapped off with the engine assembled and in the car. A second consideration is "why did it snap off?" Unfortunately, the usual answer is that it became loose and started to rock back and forth, which means the treads in the case are also buggered, which will require installing a treaded insert, which you cannot do with the engine assembled.
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Last week was one of denial. Really I am going to have to pull the motor for a dumb mistake that could have been averted. I have included some photos for your enjoyment and to continue repeating what a lucky so and so that guy is!
![]() I took the broken pivot pin and cleaned the broken stud remains on the face. I then piloted a 1/8" hole through its center. This allowed me to center the drill bit on the broken remains internally. I took a great Dewalt angle drill attachment and slowly began the process - checking regularly with the boroscope. I carefully measured the depth I wanted to go and marked it so as not to go any deeper then the broken stud. Pulled out the drill bit, ran an 1/4" tube on vacuum to remove cuttings ( a good amount magnetized to the bit). I then took a small craftsman screwdriver fit it the top of the drilled hole and removed the broken stud. I then bored the pivot pin again to allow passage of the M6 bolt to chase the threads and make sure something else was screwed up. That worked and as with the drill bit I measured the seating depth and marked the bolt to make sure I was there. I then took a Mighty Worm magnetic (great little tool even if only used once - $7) and went in below the pivot pin opening to pull out remaining cuttings. I did it 7 times until I was satisfied I got as much as I could. I dropped the oil plug and drained all the oil, left plug out and pumped a gallon of fresh oil through the pivot pin opening for another flush. I waited for my replacement pivot pin from Pelican which I got this morning. Carefully installed it - torqued it. Filled the crankcase with fresh conventional oil, left the oil filter. I plan on running it about 100 miles this weekend and dump oil & filter. Anyways started up, crawled underneath with stethoscope to listed to timing chain area - all is well I believe. Given what occurred I am reluctant to do a full on happy dance but I am close. Glad this 117000 mile Boxster that we have had since new will live another day! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 9
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Lucky you! For reference how could the mistake been avoided?
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Registered User
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Timing chain pivot pin
Always use a torque wrench. If there is not a specified torque look it up on the net for specific size you are working with!
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 9
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Got it. Thanks.
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This is a little late to help you, but I like to use left hand drills for broken screws or bolts. The idea being that sometimes the drill will grab the screw and back it out. More often than not, the drill will pull the screw. I've had to use this technique several times over the years.
Pulling broken screws can sometimes lead to damaging the female thread. This technique gave us the highest rate of success when thread repairs weren't authorized and replacing a component was cost prohibitive. |
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Yes I later found out that could have been an option - good point. Hopefully I will not have to test it in similar conditions
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