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R53 manual clutch broken or slave?
So I just picked up a 2006 R53 Mini S 80k mi and I have a perplexing clutch or trans issue and could use some guidance. The shifter feels like it goes through all 6 gears and to reverse but car does not move as if the clutch is gone. I can even start the car and without depressing the clutch move the shifter into any gear but the car does not move. I’m
assuming a catastrophic clutch or transmission failure but wonder with a hydraulic system if there is something simpler that could be bad. I’ll check the linkages but the shifter itself seems fine and feels like it can hit all gears with or without the car running and with or without the clutch pedal depressed. The clutch pedal feels like it is working but it’s a totally new to me car so I have no reference. Thanks for any direction you can provide! Last edited by m81mclaren; 02-22-2019 at 08:57 PM.. |
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Remove the air box, the shift cables are under it, have someone use the shifter and see if its moving the linkage on the trans,
Catastrophic clutch or throw out bearing problems while not common do happen. The slave is easy to locate on the front bottom of the trans bell housing, have a helper operate the clutch to see if it moves, also move the boot off ot see if fluid is under it.
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Thanks for the tips Colin I’ll check out the linkages and slave in the morning. What’s confusing to me is that it feels like the shifter is going into all the gears. Shifter cables are a new thing for me as I’m accustomed to 80s VWs where if your linkage comes apart you don’t get gear slots at the shifter and if your clutch cable breaks your clutch pedal goes straight to the floor. I’ll be shocked if a shifter cable simply detached but if so I would think I wouldn’t be able to find the gears at the knob right?
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Clutch cables are actuating through all the gears, slave cylinder is actuating about 3/4 to 1” with a small squeak and no signs of leaking, brake reservoir is full and pretty clean, CVs are both engaging the trans and spinning. Car obviously won’t move but strangely with the motor going you can shift through the gears without pushing the clutch pedal. I’m a bit confused by this as in my old cars a dead clutch usually meant grinding going into gear. Throughout bearing??? Thanks for any more feedback!
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Very unlikely to be the TO bearing.
If the lever feels like it is selecting the gear, and never grinds even when the pedal is not pressed, then it sounds like there is no connection between the crankshaft and the trans input shaft. That means either the pressure plate isn't grabbing the clutch disk, or the clutch disk isn't spinning the input shaft, or the flywheel isn't connected to the crankshaft. If the clutch hydraulics were at fault, the most likely symptoms would be that you'd never be able to press the clutch, that is the crankshaft and input shaft would always be spinning together and going into gear any time the engine was running would give you nasty noises. You definitely want to make sure that the gears are being selected. It would likely be a lot easier to fix a gear selection problem, often fixable from outside the trans, than to fix a clutch or worse. --DD
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Thanks Dave here’s a video of the shift cable action going through the gears and one of slave. Sounds like the tranny needs to come either way if it’s a clutch, flywheel or input shaft issue.
https://youtu.be/87rwFArourQ https://youtu.be/6LhQmyXsxx8 |
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Crap. Looks like the selection is happening. I might disconnect the cables (if that's not super hard to do) and work the selector by hand to triple-quadruple check.
I think you may have to pull the transmission... --DD
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Thanks fir confirming...down the Rabbit hole I go!
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Well we finally got around to doing the clutch on this one and we went with the Valeo single mass flywheel conversion setup. We are in the middle of installation but the Valeo instructions do not give the torque value for the pressure plate bolts even though they list the flywheel bolt value. I see a great guide tech write up here that I am following but its a diff manufacturer clutch and would like confirmation what's correct. The write-up says 23Nm (17 ft/lbs.) for M8 and for M9 bolts, torque to 28 Nm (21 ft-lbs.) but the Valeo kit comes with M10. Suggestions/recommendation on what torque I should apply?
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WTB California 1986-1989 M491 in Blue! Last edited by m81mclaren; 06-16-2020 at 05:35 PM.. Reason: clarity |
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Went with 22 ft lbs on the M10 pressure plate bolts after confirmation from a friendly local Mini clubber who has done the Valeo. Got the trans guide tube seal and bearing back in an lubed the clutch fork bar and other items thanks to the great how to article and Mod MINI YouTube videos. 7 full hours with setup and cleanup to remove the trans and old clutch another 4 hours to get the clutch in and the trans back in and bolted down. 2/3 done with this job and waiting on the ball joints to come in from Pelican so we can get the subframe done and car all back together. This is one of the biggest automotive jobs we've attempted. It's gratifying but an exhausting multi-day job! Hope it all works when it it's all back together.
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Well this was a successful if not exhausting job but the mini was completed in time the night before and we made the local Mini run. 25 hours in including my son and I working at the same time and taking our time. Could do it again in half the time or less (especially without the sub-frame bushings!) now that we know but don't plan to ever do this again. Thanks for the great instructional write-ups and the parts to make this all come together. We have been enjoying the Mini during the pandemic!
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Oh boy--that looks like something I should pay someone else to do if at all possible!
Good for you getting it all done, and under time pressure too!! --DD
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Wowza! Incredible work.
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