Roofing questions.....

[Baz]

Originally Posted by tevake

Is that the famous ROOFER GIRL. From P Ps past? Too funny!

Baz, so glad to hear that you found a good crew to do that roof for you,
I had thought many times of volunteering to come down to help you with that job.
Whew a close one. ��

Very interesting design Dan!

Cheers Richard

Ah....thanks, Rich.

I wouldn't have needed any help with the two crews lined up. But appreciate the thought, buddy.

[Baz]

Originally Posted by rfuerst911sc

If the crew Baz has hired is anything like the crew I hired here in Ga. he will be amazed how quick/clean the install will be . I now have my house , my two car man cave , an RV parking structure and a parking garage for our daily drivers all with metal roofs .

My crew had one guy on the ground and three on the roof . Roof guys barking out dimensions for cuts or holes to be cut to the ground guy. Ground guy was excellent with his precision on straight/angled cuts and hole cuts for vents. They get into a rhythm and become an installing machine ! For me it was fun to watch .

Yeah that's exactly how they do it, Rick.

My install crew is already here and going to it. Four Hispanic guys and as always very proficient and great attitude. Overcast but temperature is perfect - always a plus when one is working on a roof. I just hope the rain holds off.

[Baz]

Looks like the contractor didn't get the correct length in to the supplier for the panels. They are having to cut 4" off the end of each panel. With hand snips. Unfortunate to add this extra work because the contractor wasn't diligent on his measurements. Unless the supplier messed up. Either way it's a dumb mistake.

[rfuerst911sc]

They don't have power snips ??? If they are real metal roof installers they should have them ! Anyway make sure they install the cut ends at the peak so they are covered by the ridge vent cap .

[Baz]

Originally Posted by rfuerst911sc

They don't have power snips ??? If they are real metal roof installers they should have them ! Anyway make sure they install the cut ends at the peak so they are covered by the ridge vent cap .

That's what they are doing.

Yes they have power snips but were using hand ones for this task.

[rfuerst911sc]

Interesting that they would use a slow manual set of snips vs power snips . I think my crew was cross cutting 3' wide panels in under 5 seconds with power snips . I guess as long as the cuts are straight and consistent it doesn't matter how they get there. Looking forward to pics .

[Baz]

Originally Posted by rfuerst911sc

Interesting that they would use a slow manual set of snips vs power snips . I think my crew was cross cutting 3' wide panels in under 5 seconds with power snips . I guess as long as the cuts are straight and consistent it doesn't matter how they get there. Looking forward to pics .

Yeah - my panels are only 16" wide and made of aluminum. Power snips may have been a bit of overkill.

Everything going well other than that sizing issue. The contractor just left and admitted it was on him. I told him (in a tongue in cheek fashion, of course) that he should bring back a cooler of Gatorade & lunch for the workers.

The city building inspector also came and went and signed off on the permit for the mid-project inspection. They will come back again once it's done.

I'm glad he didn't say anything about all the crap I've built here on my own over the years....lol.

Pics next post.

[Baz]

Looking good so far!

[nota]

I use 5v galvanized steel extra long [bought a change order cheap brand new]
so lapped the peak 6' and bent down the fascia edge 90 deg with every other steel sheet doubled
on top of 3 layers of 5/8 ply screwed and glued then lined up the steel edge screws on the beams
my spacing was 24'' centers on the beams so 24'' steel was used with extra long screws 2 1/2 vs 1 1/2 code and up sized also the thickness

I like the steel for being stronger then alloy and 5v for being able to unscrew a sheet to get at a leak in the future but staggered ply sheets should not leak anyway as I have an effective one piece roof with no plywood gaps

all plastic ''tar paper'' replacements ice and water peal&stick for metal roofing was used on top of the plywood with a nailed to code plastic under layer [fought that hard but had to use nails

no local roofer would bid my job my way
so I hired neighbors with some roofing exp to do it my way
the idea was cat 5 proof roof not local standard that is 120mph
I wanted 200mph proof roof and think the laps on the peak and the bent down out side edges
go a long way to stay put with out the danger of flapping and coming off in extra high winds
and for the cherry on top 5 SS 1/2'' cables rated 22k working load strap the whole roof to the concrete ground slab

over done YES but that is how to keep a roof in a cat 5

watched the home next door being built now
one layer of tar paper no tar or cap sheet then nailed on shingles over one layer of plywood
I guess a 100mph wind will destroy that roof
and they sold it for 394k for 1800 sf no garage nuts ?

[Baz]

Originally Posted by nota

I use 5v galvanized steel extra long [bought a change order cheap brand new]
so lapped the peak 6' and bent down the fascia edge 90 deg with every other steel sheet doubled
on top of 3 layers of 5/8 ply screwed and glued then lined up the steel edge screws on the beams
my spacing was 24'' centers on the beams so 24'' steel was used with extra long screws 2 1/2 vs 1 1/2 code and up sized also the thickness

I like the steel for being stronger then alloy and 5v for being able to unscrew a sheet to get at a leak in the future but staggered ply sheets should not leak anyway as I have an effective one piece roof with no plywood gaps

all plastic ''tar paper'' replacements ice and water peal&stick for metal roofing was used on top of the plywood with a nailed to code plastic under layer [fought that hard but had to use nails

no local roofer would bid my job my way
so I hired neighbors with some roofing exp to do it my way
the idea was cat 5 proof roof not local standard that is 120mph
I wanted 200mph proof roof and think the laps on the peak and the bent down out side edges
go a long way to stay put with out the danger of flapping and coming off in extra high winds
and for the cherry on top 5 SS 1/2'' cables rated 22k working load strap the whole roof to the concrete ground slab

over done YES but that is how to keep a roof in a cat 5

watched the home next door being built now
one layer of tar paper no tar or cap sheet then nailed on shingles over one layer of plywood
I guess a 100mph wind will destroy that roof
and they sold it for 394k for 1800 sf no garage nuts ?

Nota......I think you won the Internet today with all that....wowie!

That said - it's impressive you put that much into it.

My roof is finished and I will post some pics a little later.

[HarryD]

Late to this thread.

How is the contractor closing the seams? Hopefully not by hand.

This is the most critical aspect of a Standing Seam Metal roof. Of the seams are not tight, you will have leaks.

DoD does a ton of these. This is their requirement:
3.3.1 Roof Panels
Apply roofing panels with the standing seams parallel to the slope of the roof. Provide roofing panels in longest practical lengths from ridge to eaves (top to eaves on shed roofs), with no transverse joints except at the junction of ventilators, curbs, skylights, chimneys, and similar openings. Install flashing to assure positive water drainage away from roof penetrations. Locate panel end laps such that fasteners do not engage supports or otherwise restrain the longitudinal thermal movement of panels. Form field-formed seam type system seams in the field with an automatic mechanical seamer approved by the manufacturer. Attach panels to the structure with concealed clips incorporated into panel seams. Clip attachment must allow roof to move independently of the structure, except at fixed points as indicated.

Full specification (27 pages) is here: https://www.wbdg.org/FFC/DOD/UFGS/UFGS%2007%2061%2014.00%2020.pdf

[nota]

Originally Posted by Baz

Nota......I think you won the Internet today with all that....wowie!

That said - it's impressive you put that much into it.

My roof is finished and I will post some pics a little later.

I do not have insurance for wind storms it costs about 5k a year here
we are in south dade in the ANDREW eye wall area
so when the post andrew roof began to leak I decided to do a bahama style
multi layer plywood roof then add metal on top and spend to survive rather then throw cash at the state run ins corp every year

both projects were aided by close out deals the ply came from a completed condo project in the keys two still shipping strapped bundles at about 1/2 wholesale
and the steel because a wife in Naples wanted the standing seam after she saw the delivered 5v so extra long pieces new but surplus to the builder's needs were cheap
lots of driving over weight trailers but lots of cash saved

we likely spend double or even a bit more on the roof even with the ply and steel savings it was very slow going and labor intensive
but I think it will survive any cat 5
all windows doors and the garage door have steel shutters over older style hurricane
rated windows and doors we are in a no flood zone X so wind is our only worry

[Baz]

Originally Posted by HarryD

Late to this thread.

How is the contractor closing the seams? Hopefully not by hand.

This is the most critical aspect of a Standing Seam Metal roof. Of the seams are not tight, you will have leaks.

DoD does a ton of these. This is their requirement:
3.3.1 Roof Panels
Apply roofing panels with the standing seams parallel to the slope of the roof. Provide roofing panels in longest practical lengths from ridge to eaves (top to eaves on shed roofs), with no transverse joints except at the junction of ventilators, curbs, skylights, chimneys, and similar openings. Install flashing to assure positive water drainage away from roof penetrations. Locate panel end laps such that fasteners do not engage supports or otherwise restrain the longitudinal thermal movement of panels. Form field-formed seam type system seams in the field with an automatic mechanical seamer approved by the manufacturer. Attach panels to the structure with concealed clips incorporated into panel seams. Clip attachment must allow roof to move independently of the structure, except at fixed points as indicated.

Full specification (27 pages) is here: https://www.wbdg.org/FFC/DOD/UFGS/UFGS%2007%2061%2014.00%2020.pdf

Hello Harry.....

Thanks for dropping by - and especially for your valuable input!

My panels are a snap in style.....

GulfLok™ is a nailstrip panel, which is a snap-lock, clip-less system. GulfLok™ is our entry level standing seam panel; the nailstrip design provides slots for fasteners, eliminating the need for clips (and reducing the labor and complexity associated with installation). As a snap-lock panel, the system does not require any special seaming tools, making GulfLok™ a popular choice for residential markets and light commercial projects.

https://www.gulfcoastsupply.com/metal-roofing/metal-roof-types/gulflok/



The installer used a rubber mallet to push the female edges onto the males ridges. They snap into place. No sealant required.

See next post for pics....

[Baz]

Hard to get pics showing the whole roof while standing on it. A drone would do a better job. Also, I'm up on a dune ridge so you can hardly see my roof from the street. Which seems odd that such a pretty roof isn't all that visible. No regrets though. Can't wait for a nice frog choker so I can watch that rain fly off!

[Baz]

These are the fasteners used for the panels. The ridge cap is riveted on. All stainless.

And I ended up with 8 leftover panels. Which will come in handy when I redo the back patio canopy (or use for a carport).

Other stuff leftover - tubes of caulking, rolls of seal tape, and fasteners. Also the Midwest brand snips they used. Left and right hand versions.

[Berezny]

From a marketability and resale perspective, metal roofs often add value to homes. Their long lifespan, durability, and energy efficiency make them appealing to many buyers. In fact, a metal roof can help differentiate your home on the market. The idea of not needing a new roof for decades is a significant selling point. Choosing a unique color, like blue or green, can also give your home character, though it’s worth thinking about whether these bold choices align with the architectural norms in your area, which could impact broad buyer appeal. If you're considering upgrading to a metal roof, you might want to explore roofing jobs near you to find professionals experienced in this type of installation.