Roofing questions.....

[crb07]

I live in Lauderdale, 2.5 miles from the beach. I replaced my asphalt shingles with metal. Stripped everything to plywood. Trusses were strapped but added a second strap. Top 12”s of block wall is poured concrete. Put a vinyl moister membrane down on top of first layer of plywood, 1” of foam next, another layer of 3/4 plywood screwed into trusses with 6” screws, another moisture membrane and then a metal roof with a lot of screws.
Power bill is 50% less and if a storm can take off my roof then probably the least of my problems as I doubt much will be left anyway. The extra foam and layer of plywood was not much more and the house is also really quiet inside, also have impact glass.
If you have poured concrete on top of your wall and strap the trusses you are off to a good start. I would not use asphalt shingles, they will blow off and absorb heat like crazy.

[Baz]

Originally Posted by URY914

Galvalume has been used on commercial buildings for years. I completed several projects with it. Good stuff and will handle anything Florida throws at it IF it is attached properly.

No doubt, Paul, it is a great product and I have used it here for a couple projects, but the aluminum will not rust....and over time....the Galvalume will....especially at the edges where it is cut and doesn't have the zinc coating.

At the coast where I am - the safe bet is aluminum, even though more expensive.

[Baz]

Originally Posted by crb07

I live in Lauderdale, 2.5 miles from the beach. I replaced my asphalt shingles with metal. Stripped everything to plywood. Trusses were strapped but added a second strap. Top 12”s of block wall is poured concrete. Put a vinyl moister membrane down on top of first layer of plywood, 1” of foam next, another layer of 3/4 plywood screwed into trusses with 6” screws, another moisture membrane and then a metal roof with a lot of screws.
Power bill is 50% less and if a storm can take off my roof then probably the least of my problems as I doubt much will be left anyway. The extra foam and layer of plywood was not much more and the house is also really quiet inside, also have impact glass.
If you have poured concrete on top of your wall and strap the trusses you are off to a good start. I would not use asphalt shingles, they will blow off and absorb heat like crazy.

Thanks, Chris...that's very impressive! My house is a combo of block and framing. But I do plan to look at and improve the truss straps and put in additional insulation at some point.

I doubt I will add the double layer like you did, though. I have a small home and with that power bills have never been too bad.

I'm curious what kind of metal panels you used. Did you get them painted white or a light color?

Thanks!

[tevake]

Very timely thread for me guys, as I'm planning to reroof the shop here at my new place in the panhandle. So I really appreciate the info and experiences shared here.

The building is currently done with open 2x6 rafters with metal sheeting fastend on top. This leaks at many of the fasteners and at some of the seams.

This will be the first step of a major overhaul of the shed built structure. To include refastening the ply siding and cladding with metal sheeting. New garage doors, adding some windows, and a sliding glass door, etc.






As it is pretty shed built structure that Im wanting to convert to a more liveable man cave adjunct to my motorhome, which I plan to park under a carport built off the left side of the building.
So the reroof calls for some insulation to make it more useable in the summer heat.

Like Baz, I've come around to considering standing seam galvalum metal.

Any thoughts as to what materials, sequencing, and specs would be best and most affordable to archive the best results would be helpful, thanks.

My current thinking is 2x10" rafters, 5/8 ply sheathing, 3/4" or 1" foam, some sort of membrane, standing seam metal roofing.
The rafters span 21' from the end walls over a center beam. The 2x6 are pretty undersized even to support just the pearlings and metal roofing .

Cheers Richard

[VincentVega]

Have you checked out the rest of the framing? I'd want to know what the walls were made of before digging into the roof.

Cool space, good luck

[Seahawk]

I re-roofed my barn, then "wrapped" ten years ago.

They still look great and zero issue after hundreds of rain events, thunder storms and a few hurricanes (CAT 2 and below).

Tevake, I'd wrap.

Before:





After:

[crb07]

Originally Posted by Baz

Thanks, Chris...that's very impressive! My house is a combo of block and framing. But I do plan to look at and improve the truss straps and put in additional insulation at some point.

I doubt I will add the double layer like you did, though. I have a small home and with that power bills have never been too bad.

I'm curious what kind of metal panels you used. Did you get them painted white or a light color?

Thanks!

They are metal, powder coated. I did not use a light color that qualifies for Florida heat reflective. I think there is a tax credit or something. It was a while ago. I would strap trusses and screw plywood down. Roofers will tell you ring shank nails are good enough but no way they are holding as well as screws. Company was Solar Shield out of North Florida. Guys were awesome.

[DanielDudley]

Originally Posted by crb07

I live in Lauderdale, 2.5 miles from the beach. I replaced my asphalt shingles with metal. Stripped everything to plywood. Trusses were strapped but added a second strap. Top 12”s of block wall is poured concrete. Put a vinyl moister membrane down on top of first layer of plywood, 1” of foam next, another layer of 3/4 plywood screwed into trusses with 6” screws, another moisture membrane and then a metal roof with a lot of screws.
Power bill is 50% less and if a storm can take off my roof then probably the least of my problems as I doubt much will be left anyway. The extra foam and layer of plywood was not much more and the house is also really quiet inside, also have impact glass.
If you have poured concrete on top of your wall and strap the trusses you are off to a good start. I would not use asphalt shingles, they will blow off and absorb heat like crazy.

That's great stuff.

[dad911]

Tevake- depends on level of finish desired and budget. Lucky you don't have to worry about snow loads.

As a start, I'd think about a layer of plywood on the rafters, spray on or foam board insulation, and tie the roof to the walls with metal strapping (hurricane)

Nicer finish would be ceiling joists, batt insulation, and sheetrock.

crbo7 - Is it common practice in your area to put plywood between two moisture barriers ? Does that moisture barrier breathe? If humidity can't escape, the wood will rot. Seen it quite often around here in walls, before tyvek, people were putting a plastic vapor barrier behind the sheetrock, combined with tar paper under siding, walls would retain moisture.

That was also part of the problem with eifs stucco, elastomeric coating too tight, moisture trapped against sheathing.

[cabmandone]

Some of the new metal panels have reflective coatings that help keep the attic cooler in the summer. I wanted to go with a light gray on my roof but my wife didn't like the idea and I ended up with a dark asphalt shingle roof.

[tevake]

Baz, sorry for the hijack of your very informative roofing thread.
So much knowledge and help available here.
I'll try to keep my discussions of other building issues brief.

VincentVega, there are some framing issues in both the front and back walls to be sorted around the big openings for the doors. The end walls appear to be well framed and sound.

Paul, that's exactly the plan I have for the siding. Did you wrap the existing siding with tyvek befor installing the metal siding?

Chris, that sounds like a very effective roof assembly you did.
I'm wondering if the standing seam clips can be installed directly on top of a sheet foam insulation layer with a membrain on top of the foam? Or if a top layer of ply on top of the foam is called for?

Dad911, my goal is primarily to get a well insulating, dry, long lived, wind resistant roof at the best cost.
Painted ply over new rafters will be just fine for interior decore.

One of the reasons I've made so little progress on this building over this last year is that I'm saving resorces for the installation of infrastructure to the planned rental RV sites, once the permitting process is done.
Once they are generating income, Ill be better able to chip away at the rebuilding of the shop. But in the mean time I would like to get the roof done and keep the interior dry.
So far the permitting process has been glacially slow. Just getting the driveway easement sorted with the state has taken over 7 months, and that had to be completed before the county will consider the zoning change for the property.
The delays have given me time on the property to better refine the development details. But enough allready.

Did I say I'd keep it brief? Sorry Baz.

Cheers Richard

[red-beard]

Originally Posted by Baz

Quick update - current thinking is to go with Aluminum standing seam panels. Painted white for optimum reflectivity....We'll see.....right now though the aluminum sounds like the best choice given my proximity to the coast.

https://www.englertinc.com/blog/steel-and-aluminum-two-great-metal-roofing-materials-each-have-their-strengths/

Check the material selection. Some forms of aluminum are attacked by salt air more than other. If the material is 5052 your should be fine.

[Evans, Marv]

Another thought that may or may not serve well is the possibility of solar (tile/shingle ?) roof covering. This would depend on the orientation of your roof, local power rates, etc. & may not be a good choice for you in your situation. But it could kill two birds with one stone. I had solar installed at my place (all electric except for two propane powered, tankless water heaters) going on three years ago and haven't paid a cent since for power. It should pay for itself in six years. Depending on the economics, it might be a consideration for you and add to resale value. When I put my system, the top tier charge for electricity here was in the low $.40/Kwh. In three years it has increased to $.55/Kwh. The local power company just continues to put the screws to the customers.

[Seahawk]

Originally Posted by tevake

Paul, that's exactly the plan I have for the siding. Did you wrap the existing siding with tyvek befor installing the metal siding?

I did not. The existing sides were the original barn siding, Poplar I think. The big barn is over one hundred years old and the local historic folks recommended no material between the new siding and the old wood. The siding was attached directly to the faded green siding.

On the little barn, Mr Zimmerman is taking off some boards I hammered on and painted when we bought the place in 1995.

That way, the next owners can return the barn to original should they desire.

I can tell you there as been no water intrusion, leaks or further degradation to the old siding. Cover and go.

Best upgrade I ever did to this place.

[Seahawk]

A few more views:

[LakeCleElum]

Baz - Metal will outlast you and the next generation. Only issue I have is the noise in the rain. I put metal on my cabin at the lake when I built in 1987 for the purpose of shedding snow. Never had a leak. Added bonus is added fire protection.

[Baz]

Originally Posted by LakeCleElum

Baz - Metal will outlast you and the next generation. Only issue I have is the noise in the rain. I put metal on my cabin at the lake when I built in 1987 for the purpose of shedding snow. Never had a leak. Added bonus is added fire protection.

Hey Bob - thanks for chiming in. Not sure how your metal roof was configured, but noise is usually a non-factor when the metal is laid directly onto the plywood with underlayment in between. The wood and underlayment 'deadens' any potential sound effects.

In this area, there are metal roofs everywhere now - it's really 'caught on'. It's funny now that I'm going in that direction, how much more attention I'm paying to everyone's metal roof. I have to be careful not to hold anyone up behind me due to my rubber necking.

[Baz]

Originally Posted by tevake

Baz, sorry for the hijack of your very informative roofing thread.
-snip-

Rich.....thank you but for gosh sakes...absolutely no need to apologize - I find your posts and everyone else's quite informative as well as interesting.

This is one of the thread's that intersects with many other member's situations, I'm sure.

Another example of the fantastic resource we have here - that I'm consistently grateful for.

Paul - love what you did at your farm - thanks for sharing and especially for the pics!

I hope to find out some more info on suppliers this week and will also make a stop at city hall building dept. to confirm my ability to pull the permit and do the work myself. I did this when I re-did the garage roof so hopefully nothing has changed.

[Jims5543]

Originally Posted by Baz

Rich.....thank you but for gosh sakes...absolutely no need to apologize - I find your posts and everyone else's quite informative as well as interesting.

This is one of the thread's that intersects with many other member's situations, I'm sure.

Another example of the fantastic resource we have here - that I'm consistently grateful for.

Paul - love what you did at your farm - thanks for sharing and especially for the pics!

I hope to find out some more info on suppliers this week and will also make a stop at city hall building dept. to confirm my ability to pull the permit and do the work myself. I did this when I re-did the garage roof so hopefully nothing has changed.

Rain noise was a non issue for me, as we decked over the pressboard with 5/8" plywood we now have 1.5" of wood under the metal. We also have the rubber under lay which I think makes a big difference.




The back roof over the porch is still cold role asphalt, I hope to put something better down when the time comes to replace that again.



Good luck, I left the roofing to a local contractor, I am too busy to do it myself even though by BIL used to be a roofing carpenter, he was itching to do this job ourselves, I passed.

[Baz]

I gotta get one of those drones!

Nice pad there, Jim. I have a flat roof 2 car garage with peel and stick and I'm good with it. We removed the old tar and gravel back in the early 2000's and replaced all the plywood, so should be good for a while.

Thanks for the pics!