Powering up the new shed

[Instrument 41]

Of all the electrical guru's out there. Got my new shed in and need to connect the existing power to the new box. One pic shows the leads and the other shows the box. Can you tell me where to terminate? I had an old shed that was there and I just disconnected it but it was very different that this panel.

[wilnj]

Can you separate that bundle of wires? Hard to tell how many wires you’ve got coming in.


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[Instrument 41]

3, white, red and green

[wdfifteen]

red to black, white to white, green to ground. But I would look at the source of the wires to confirm that red goes to a breaker and white goes to neutral.

[nickelplated5s]

Green=ground, white=neutral, red=hot(or black usually). FYI, I'm not an electrician.

[1990C4S]

A bit hard to tell. I think this is set up for 220 incoming...





You can ignore the red arrow and jumper red to black where the arrows are if I'm right about how the box is configured.

[Zeke]

Originally Posted by 1990C4S

A bit hard to tell. I think this is set up for 220 incoming...





You can ignore the red arrow and jumper red to black where the arrows are if I'm right about how the box is configured.

Your arrows are correct — no black feed involved. Red to breaker buss and the other 2 as shown.

However, I'd like to see that buss with the breaker removed.

That's not a double pole breaker so it looks like 2 circuits.

[1990C4S]

Originally Posted by Zeke

Your arrows are correct — no black feed involved. Red to breaker buss and the other 2 as shown.

However, I'd like to see that buss with the breaker removed.

That's not a double pole breaker so it looks like 2 circuits.

That's why I 'think' he needs to jumper the top connections. It is configured for 220 VAC feed, with one leg on each phase.

[dyount]

Correct on the white/white , green/green, red to a screw and jump to the other screw. ALSO, no need to drive a separate ground as the shed is supplied by a single branch circuit NEC 250.32 A

[Zeke]

Originally Posted by 1990C4S

That's why I 'think' he needs to jumper the top connections. It is configured for 220 VAC feed, with one leg on each phase.

We are both saying much the same thing, but he doesn't have 240v feed unless the white is hot. So there is no phase involved. I would simply remove one of the breakers and set it opposite the other so that they are on the same leg.

Almost all boxes are configured for a 240v supply. And this one seems that way, but with only one 120v leg, he can have multiple breakers but they are on the same leg and no 240v double pole breakers will ever work.

A jumper would work but that's not really the way to do it unless he wants to add another breaker or 2. However, and I'll bet, if he had four 20A breakers in there that the feed amps would be exceeded. His feed looks like 10 ga. so a 30A breaker at the main panel is all he can use. Even 3 breakers is marginal depending on the load.

I can see the reason to separate lighting from outlets in the shed and that's about it for that panel. And the only reason to do that is if he pops the outlet breaker, he won't be in the dark. Safety.

[1990C4S]

The way I see it he has a two breaker box...maybe I'm wrong. Maybe he can put two breakers on the same leg?

What is your feed size? If it's 15 Amps you might as well put your shed on one 15 amp breaker.

[DanielDudley]

So you have three breakers at the house dedicated to what was your old shed. It would be good to go to the source and figure out which breakers those are and what they are rated for.

Any chance the gauge of the wire is printed on the insulation ?

[Instrument 41]

Guys no 220 needed for this shed. 5 receptacles and one overhead light. So knowing this, still need a jumper?

[dad911]

Let's do this right.

Step 1. Measure voltage between red and white wire. Tell us gauge of wire, and breaker rating.


How is the bundle of wires (leads) feeding the shed run? Conduit? is there only 1 red and 1 white wire? Looks like more than one shade of green?

[MBAtarga]

Originally Posted by Instrument 41

Guys no 220 needed for this shed. 5 receptacles and one overhead light. So knowing this, still need a jumper?

If you don't need 220, then the breakers need to be installed end to end rather than next to each other. Run the red wire to the screw post adjacent to the breakers, the white and ground to the buss bars. The other screw post goes unused - unless you add breakers - and then you'll need a jumper.

[Instrument 41]

Voltage is 120 VAC, and only one wire of each color

[carambola]

in the first pic you are holding thhn in your hand. you could add one more conductor through the pipe and have 240v available. the catch is; since you are bringing more than one circuit out to the shed, you have to drive ground rods at the new panel. this options removes the "where to place the breakers or do I need a jumper" question.
just a thought.

[dad911]

Originally Posted by Instrument 41

Voltage is 120 VAC, and only one wire of each color

Ok then.....

Using 1990C4S colored arrow diagram: Red to red, white to white, green to green.

Move the breaker that is on the black buss to the red buss. Your going to rotate it 180 degrees and move it down.

Obviously do all this with power off.

All conductors should be run through conduit, with the proper connector to a knock-out on the panel.

Make sure the new shed and the existing wires are the same gauge (awg12 or awg14?)

[Bill Douglas]

Originally Posted by carambola

you have to drive ground rods at the new panel.

It's good practice to have ground rods in powered sheds in all circumstances.

[Instrument 41]

thanks for the help guys. I'll take pics when I finish.