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-   -   Mixing Concrete (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/off-topic-discussions/1015165-mixing-concrete.html)

dad911 12-09-2018 03:39 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaun @ Tru6 (Post 10278265)
I have to say, this board is simply amazing. This spring I'll be pouring a mini foundation next to the building main foundation and was wondering how the new concrete will stick to the existing foundation vs. just crack away from it. That and I will do sections at a time pouring two long strips, letting those set and then slowly pouring a 12' by 50' floor, section by section. Now I know to use adhesion promoter.

Going to get a serious mixer off of CL.
That floor is about 11 yards (6" thick, I suspect you are placing a lift?)
Footings (WAG) 7-8 yards......

Way more than I'd want to mix. ;)

drcoastline 12-09-2018 03:42 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaun @ Tru6 (Post 10278550)
Thanks guys. Here's a bit more of my vision (which is only a vision, have a long time before it reaches 50+F on a regular basis). The pavement in the parking lot at work is soft and cracked and uneven and generally crap. I want to pour an X deep by maybe 8"x8" base against the concrete building, about 50' long. I am thinking I could sink tubes into it for poles or some kind of anchor that I can bolt U-channel to and make a temporary roof. In front of the base I want to pour a pad for cars to park, and work on in the summer time. Maybe build a well for my scissor lift.

Jeff, I wouldn't mix it by hand, I'd probably get something like this:

https://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/hvo/d/cement-mixer-honda-engine/6767805307.html

So it's only a dream right now. I think March I'll really start to plan.
I'm a little confused by what you are trying to do? If I understand you want a flat and level surface that you can park cars on and have the ability to erect a temporary enclosure on the slab? You also want to have your scissor lift in the slab, when closed the top of the lift even with the slab top? Am I correct?

KFC911 12-09-2018 03:49 PM
1/2 bag > 5 gal bucket + pointed shovel > pour > pack....

Repeat until done....

Thread over ;)

wdfifteen 12-09-2018 04:13 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by look 171 (Post 10278411)
Its a patch in a slab, so lets not over think it.
+1
This isn't rocket surgery.

KFC911 12-09-2018 04:24 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by wdfifteen (Post 10278624)
+1
This isn't rocket surgery.
Yet....thread ain't over :)

MBAtarga 12-09-2018 04:44 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaun @ Tru6 (Post 10278265)
I have to say, this board is simply amazing. This spring I'll be pouring a mini foundation next to the building main foundation and was wondering how the new concrete will stick to the existing foundation vs. just crack away from it. That and I will do sections at a time pouring two long strips, letting those set and then slowly pouring a 12' by 50' floor, section by section. Now I know to use adhesion promoter.

Going to get a serious mixer off of CL.
I'd suggest pinning the new pour to the existing foundation. Drill a few holes 4 or 5 inches deep into the side of the existing foundation and then take some rebar cut into 8 to 10 inch lengths and drive them into the drilled holes. They will keep the new pour from settling below the level of the existing pad. Use the adhesion promoter as well if you'd like.

john70t 12-09-2018 05:39 PM
Why not get a strip of metal and cover up the top of drain pipe?
That will be protected the next time someone digs it up.

look 171 12-09-2018 05:44 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaun @ Tru6 (Post 10278550)
Thanks guys. Here's a bit more of my vision (which is only a vision, have a long time before it reaches 50+F on a regular basis). The pavement in the parking lot at work is soft and cracked and uneven and generally crap. I want to pour an X deep by maybe 8"x8" base against the concrete building, about 50' long. I am thinking I could sink tubes into it for poles or some kind of anchor that I can bolt U-channel to and make a temporary roof. In front of the base I want to pour a pad for cars to park, and work on in the summer time. Maybe build a well for my scissor lift.

Jeff, I wouldn't mix it by hand, I'd probably get something like this:

https://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/hvo/d/cement-mixer-honda-engine/6767805307.html

So it's only a dream right now. I think March I'll really start to plan.
That's not a dream, its a nightmare, Shaun. Yes, with that thing, its doing it by hand. That's almost a yard of concrete. I sure you like lifting 60 lbs up into that damn drum.

look 171 12-09-2018 05:53 PM
2500 bucks for that thing? I hire a truck and be happy to pay the short load fee, hump it in with a wheel barrel and still have money left for your 911. Can the concrete truck get near? He might be able to place it right into the forms for you if there's room.

Try looking for the pre-mix concrete buggy. They hold up one yard of concrete that can be pulled form the yard with your pick up truck. Return when done. That runs about 120 bucks here. Just pump and tip the drum and let it onto the the wheel barrel and be done within a couple hours. No lifting.

A930Rocket 12-09-2018 06:48 PM
We poured a 22’ x 22’ garage slab on my attached house back in the mid 90’s. It was a hot day and we started at 8 am. Trucks carried 9-10 yards.

All I can say is never again. The mud got hot quick and we we’re barely able to work it. The finish sucked and there was a slight low spot in the back center where we couldn’t drag the mud.

There is very little that I will do myself when building one of my houses. Time and a professional job beats my slow azz every time.

YMMV

Shaun @ Tru6 12-10-2018 03:38 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by MBAtarga (Post 10278658)
I'd suggest pinning the new pour to the existing foundation. Drill a few holes 4 or 5 inches deep into the side of the existing foundation and then take some rebar cut into 8 to 10 inch lengths and drive them into the drilled holes. They will keep the new pour from settling below the level of the existing pad. Use the adhesion promoter as well if you'd like.
Thanks Mark, good to know.


Quote:
Originally Posted by look 171 (Post 10278729)
That's not a dream, its a nightmare, Shaun. Yes, with that thing, its doing it by hand. That's almost a yard of concrete. I sure you like lifting 60 lbs up into that damn drum.
Quote:
Originally Posted by look 171 (Post 10278734)
2500 bucks for that thing? I hire a truck and be happy to pay the short load fee, hump it in with a wheel barrel and still have money left for your 911. Can the concrete truck get near? He might be able to place it right into the forms for you if there's room.

Try looking for the pre-mix concrete buggy. They hold up one yard of concrete that can be pulled form the yard with your pick up truck. Return when done. That runs about 120 bucks here. Just pump and tip the drum and let it onto the the wheel barrel and be done within a couple hours. No lifting.

Great advice. My problem in life is I always like to do things myself. In part because I love the adventure and learning something new and in part because no one ever does an excellent job. And many times not even a good job. But I am getting old enough where I might let someone who knows what they are doing do this work. A truck can get in but 25 to 50 ft will be wheel-barrowed in I imagine.

But 60 lb bags aren't that heavy and a good work out. :D

wdfifteen 12-10-2018 05:36 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaun @ Tru6 (Post 10278265)
I have to say, this board is simply amazing. This spring I'll be pouring a mini foundation next to the building main foundation and was wondering how the new concrete will stick to the existing foundation vs. just crack away from it. That and I will do sections at a time pouring two long strips, letting those set and then slowly pouring a 12' by 50' floor, section by section. Now I know to use adhesion promoter.

Going to get a serious mixer off of CL.
As someone said, this sounds like a nightmare to do yourself.
You are going to have to dig a footer if you want to integrate the slab with your existing foundation. Without a below-the-frost-line footer the slab is going to heave and float with the seasons. If you pin one edge to your existing foundation and let the other side float - well, you can imagine what it will do. You can either pour a simple slab and let it move independently, or pour a footer and integrate it with your main structure with pins.
Either way you are talking about a lot of concrete, and not the size of job you want to learn on.

javadog 12-10-2018 06:01 AM
Shaun,

The mixer that you linked in your post for sale on craigslist might be useful for small masonry jobs, but it's absolutely the wrong tool for what you're trying to do. If you want to do some of the work yourself, do the excavating, compacting, forming and tying of the steel. You can do the footing and the slab in one continuous pour; the only way that pour should be done is by a contractor and the only concrete to use is that which comes out of a readymix truck.

Shaun @ Tru6 12-10-2018 03:41 PM
I repeat myself, "I have to say, this board is simply amazing. ... Now I know not to try to do this myself." :D

Kraftwerk 12-10-2018 08:13 PM
I bought a bag of Portland and a bag of sand, to fix a hole in the floor, no pre -mix for me. Did a six to one ratio, used an old mud bucket and a drill /mixer. worked well. Memory is fuzzy.... on the ratio pretty sure its 6 to one.

There is good info on" You tube" but you have to watch 15 clips to get one sane bit of advice..

so now we have the experts gathered:
How to smooth out a bumpy concrete wall? I read concrete doesn't go on thin but needs to be at least 1" thick to work ?

look 171 12-10-2018 10:20 PM
Shaun, I am a little confused about those long footings? What are they for? Why is it that you have to place them so close and attach them to the existing footing? From what I read, they are 50' long and are used as two continuous footings to support a slab so they sit below ground?

Shaun @ Tru6 12-11-2018 03:45 AM
Jeff, I'll try to do a sketch later today.

kach22i 12-11-2018 06:00 AM
Best Wheelbarrow for Concrete Comparisons Chart
https://www.backyardboss.net/best-wheelbarrow-for-concrete/
https://www.backyardboss.net/wp-cont...e-last-one.jpg

wdfifteen 12-11-2018 06:48 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by kach22i (Post 10280341)
[B]Best Wheelbarrow for Concrete
No such thing. Wheelbarrows suck for mixing concrete. A mixing tub is $13 bucks and it WORKS!

javadog 12-11-2018 06:57 AM
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1544543875.jpg


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