I guess it all depends if you want to work at floor level or waist level, and if you need to be mobile.

Cement Mixing Tub Home Depot Plastic Lowes – soczewki
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A wheelbarrow in a basement would be awfully awkward I'll admit.

A mixing tub when your water source is not very near is equally disadvantaged.

Right tool for the job.

This was at my house a few weeks ago. 14 yards of fibermix. SmileWavy

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Every time I see those concrete pumps, I think of Wayne's World....
Schwinggggg.

Here's a quick sketch. The footings are way oversized. It's basically a carport. The key element is the "structure" must be temporary. So I either sink tubes into the footings into which pipe is inserted or metal tabs to which I can bolt channel.

Verticals are 15' on building side, 8' on open side.

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The wife and I have a side gig selling products on amazon and it requires that I mix a lot of concrete every week in small batches (25-55lbs). The 5 gallon bucket method and a cordless drill/mud mixer is the way to go, I probably do 2-3 batches every week and it's extremely simple and consistent. Water first then add in the mix as you run the drill, probably takes 45-70 seconds total to achieve a perfect consistency. No mess and cleaning up the bucket is a breeze.

You are talking mortar mix, not concrete?

Shaun, how heavy is that roof? If its made to disassemble, then the roof can't be that heavy? My question for you is, why do the extra work and pour a continuous footing and above ground? Unless you need a big old chunk of concrete to stop something there? Sure its better and stronger, but I think the cheap way to do this is to pour simple piers, 2' deep and use a Sonotube or something similar for your forms. Insert J bolts 3/8"-16 x 8" J-Bolts Grade A36 Low Carbon Steel — Plain Weld flanges to a steel pole and attach that to the J bolts. Take it off when you get busted by code enforcement. I am not sure about movement during winter time? Maybe another foot deeper? Pour your concrete pad around and pin and epoxy that to those footings and the main foundation.

Both, no issues with either. I use an 18V Makita cordless.

Thanks Jeff. The roof will be some form of corrugated fiberglass or polycarbonate. I will probably TIG together an Al lattice for strength and integrity.

The main reason for all the extra work is that it's clean. And it allows me to put actual walls up at some point when no one is looking. :) But your tubes are a really good idea and gives me more flexibility in the build. I will probably go that route as long as I can pour the pad around them.

I have two options for this project.

1. Follow the town rules and build something temporary on a pad that can slowly become less temporary but temporary nonetheless. There's no real downside to this.

2. Put, and just a WAG, $50K into concrete and a simple but proper structure up. That becomes a huge can of worms I think. My building is industrial but nestled in a residential neighborhood. I don't see good things happening trying to get permission to build a proper garage.

Make it temporary would be my suggestion but that depends on your building code and how relax they are about stuff like this in an industrial building. Out here, they will sharpen their knives ready to cut your balls off if the city ever found out especially in residential areas. No temporary structures such as tents for a certain amount of days in drive ways. If you can get away with temporary to less temporary, weld some rings so a canvas can be apply in between the poles for privacy. It can all be taken apart within a few hours and put back up in a day.

Temporary is cool with the town. Years ago I built this (finished not shown), essentially electrical conduit all welded together, silk screen frames for the doors and hay tarps after 3 feet of snow collapsed standard shelters. Having to make the hoops on the second floor was a real *****. As noted, pavement is broken, soft, uneven and the worst part, goes into 3D decline toward the back of the building.


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Based on your drawing I don't see any need to physically tie the new slab/footer into the existing building at all. In fact it may be better not to. Put an expansion joint between the exiting building and slab and let it float free of the building. Also many municiplaites consider pole barns temporary structures.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1544620304.jpg

Also looking at your drawings have you considered a retraceable awning? They easily extend 12' without any additional support. It could be retracted in the event of a storm, or affix poles at the end to lash the awning to. Here are a few ideas.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1544620501.jpg

These could easily be closed in.

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Is this the actual space?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1544621459.jpg

Yes, that's the actual space. I think it drops as much as a foot down the 50 feet. I'll snap a pic from neighbor's yard too.

The pole barn is a good idea.

Many municipalities also consider four season rooms/patio enclosures temporary buildings.

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The other thing to consider is if you physically tie the foundation/slab and/or the roof into the original structure, the municipality may consider it part of that structure and consider it permanent. It then becomes subject to set backs, etc. So you may want to consider a prefab shed or a shed kit, which is a temporary structure and free standing. Pour your slab with threaded J bolts and bolt a 2x4 treated plate to the slab the same as the shed dimensions. set the shed on the plates. Get it inspected so code enforcement goes away. Once you are clear cut the plywood floor out of the shed and set it directly on the treated plate and screw it down.

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If I were you, I would befriend a local architect and buy him lunch. Tell him what you're trying to achieve and let him advise you on what your possibilities are.

Better to go to the building department and get the info straight from them. Architects aren't always right. Look no further than our own kach22i. ;)

The building department might be able to tell him a few things about what's legal and what's not, but an architect will have ideas as to what sort of structure is possible. His previous one was not a good choice, that's where the architect will come in.

Having spent most of my career in commercial construction, I've worked with endless architects. George is not a representative example of the breed. Fear not...

The problem will be finding the right architect that is familiar with what the building dept. allows. Commercial architects are totally different than residential guys and this would be a residential project.