Added a hitch to the Cayenne today. Interesting process.

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My '02 Silverado came as a base model from the factory. Manual windows. Manual just about everything. Right after I bought it in '05, I had power windows installed.

At some point a few years ago the driver's side stopped working. The motor went bad. I bought a replacement and still have it but decided since it was the driver's side, I'd just use a window crank. These window cranks have about a 2 year life until the ribbing wears out. So today I went by my FLAPS to pick up another one. Kid behind the counter asks for all my vehicle info and then says "We have one by Dorman that fits your vehicle for $21." I said - I paid less than $10 for my last one. Let's go look. We went to the window crank section and I picked out the $7 Dorman unit. Purcshased and went outside to install and two minutes later it worked like a dream.

So just out of curiosity I just now look it up on Amazon and it's only $4.36 and I could have it tomorrow with my Prime membership. Oh well....was worth the $7 to get it resolved. The old one was not engaging very well. Works fantastic now.

Amazon is selling the one I replaced today - also a Dorman - for $8.62. Free delivery Thursday.

Installed a 2” level on the Tahoe. Now it’s level front to back.

Also installed wheel spacers to push the tires just a little bit. I’m not liking it, so they’ll come off next weekend.

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Swapped out an irrigation timer that was damaged from an electrical surge. It wasn't sending the 24v signal to the pump start relay. We had a horrendous thunderstorm last week which wreaked havoc in the area for many folks' electronics. This was at a client's property. I was not affected at my property, thankfully.

Decided to switch to this Rainbird ESP TM2. I think the Rainbirds hold up better than the Hunters.

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Also picked up my Interceptor this morning from my mechanic. Had him pull the carbs and replace the fuel supply and vent tubes, due to a fuel leak. I'm not good at carb work and on a machine like this - it gets very tricky.

Here's the new tubes made from T6 aluminum and purchased on eBay and the factory plastic tubes we replaced - the leak was from a small split next to my finger.

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Rode the bike back and runs great - very fast. Make that...scary fast!!! :p

No photos needed for this one:

Sunday evening I noticed the toilet in the guest bathroom was filling just super slow, like over an hour to be ready to flush. OK, another project to do, crap. So Monday at 10am or so I made a quick trip to the local Lowe's and got a new fill valve for under 10 bucks. Cheap and easy.

I knew I had to meet some suppliers and some customers for my business and I did not want to face the toilet valve replacement and get my Polo shirt with my company logo on it sweaty, so I procrastinated, it can wait. We have two other toilets that work perfectly.

Today I had just one delivery and client to meet, and some bookkeeping to do, so I waited until this afternoon. I hate any plumbing work. I went to the garage just once, and got my hand pump to drain the water from the tank, and one pair of channel lock pliers, and a old towel to sop up the drips. The valve was out and the new one in within 5 minutes. It was like an edited TV show and everything went as designed.

I am stunned. Normally when I do plumbing jobs it usually involves 5 or more trips to the store, half of my tool box, and a weekend to replace the toilet handle. I will keep a close eye on it but I think it is fixed. Amazing. I expect to see unicorns and rainbows any minute. It must be my lucky day. A 5 minute project that only took 5 minutes. I almost feel cheated, but not really.

Did the same yesterday at my Mom's house. Used one of those Fluidmaster kits. Weird that the water wasn't filling up very well. Must have had a gasket failure somewhere.

You really don't need many tools.

Channel locks in case the nut underneath is a little tight, a pan to catch the water, a towel to catch the water the pan doesn't, and the kit itself.

Hand tightened everything upon installation.

Hardest damn part was dealing with the freaking chain - getting it in the right link and then into that lever. The engineering design on that part is just terrible.

Before pic from last week - no pics from yesterday.

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I make the hose so it fills the tank and bowl half and half. It saves water. but I also put a few bricks in there or a soda bottle to save water aswell. Just have to allow enough in to fill the bowl and usually its way too much and just goes down the drain

My wife was in a hurry to get to work and backs her Mini Cooper into my jeep wrangler. The only thing it did to the jeep was wrinkled up the bumper cover a little bit. On the Mini she put a big crease right above the bumper and broke out a piece of the bumper cover. It’s an old mini so I just fixed it myself. The paint is from the auto parts store and it is just “close enough” in color.
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Inverter Battery Change. Those are not very good 200AH batteries in very poor shape. I replaced them with 230AH batteries and added 50%. Total, 70% more capacity. About 30-33 kWh of energy storage.

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I need to do this, but also replace the seat under the flapper

I need to do this too.
Those in warmer climates might consider insulation on the inside of the bowl to prevent sweating/drips when it fills up with cold water.
(unless A/C is run of course)

Painted part of the outside garage floor with Lowes Valspar floor paint. Brick red for a little warmth. Supposed to have polymers for strength.
(Floor is trashed so anything is better than the 12yo stuff on there.)
Five days later, and it's still tacky to the touch.
It's still not drying despite all hot dry days. :(
The odd thing is that I also had a newer unopened can that turned into a brick.

Good tip - I have done that before but it's been a while.

Our water is pretty cheap here as well as plentiful. I know that sounds a little irresponsible but it doesn't mean we go around wasting water or anything. I think this is one of those water-saver toilets anyway...whatever that means.....

We have well water its more to prolong the amount of time between regenerating the softener. It used to regen itself but dumped the brine into the septic tank which started breaking down the concrete so now we so it manually every few months and drain it out in the yard which is a bit of a faff. When the water starts getting hard you really notice in the shower when the soap doesnt feel like its doing anything.

James - this is an inverter for your house? Interested in the details. Thanks!

So you replaced the stopper and it's still leaking?

That's a more involved job, obviously. I did it on one of mine and hated it. Rusted fasteners...leaks....etc. etc. :rolleyes:

That makes sense. We're on city water here - at least Mom is and I, at my place.

My last house I had a well and softeners etc. So I can relate.

Actually, a client. They have a Grid+Battery system, dating from 2011. The solar company that installed it went out of business. I've been helping them since 2016.

The UB4D is a poor battery for the application. It does not have a very good life. The C&D batteries are designed for long life (10 years) in standby applications. That system will cycle maybe 100 times in 10 years. Good application for VRLA sealed lead-acid batteries.

OK thanks. Very interesting. They are lucky to have someone like you that's is so knowlegable!

I guess technology for batteries like everything else keeps improving.

Fixing the stickiness in a $450 ThrustMaster joystick not done by the mfr.
(a common problem from what I've read)
Better grease and a few minutes of prep would not have made this necessary.

I used Lucas #2 Marine Grease with Calcium Sulfonate additive which is supposed to be important.
(Advanced Auto had it but O'Reillys and local hardware stores didn't)

You can see the plastic casting/flashing was still left.
The internet guides said to use 600 grit, 1000, 2000.
Lazy me stopped at 600. Whatever.
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Another design incidental: A soldered ground wire runs through the stack making them inseparable.
Not an obstacle but a huh. It could have easily had a connector.
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This part, I forget the name atm, sits on top of the ball stack and slides on the four posts, to apply centering pressure to the ball.
Some people recommended removing the large pressure spring but others tried it and disagreed.

If you use any other spray lubes, such as silicone/lithium, the white plastic plate swells up to pinch the posts and then the joystick is completely frozen up.

This happened to me as well. Maybe it was designed that way.

The fix is to bore out the hole slightly again. Do this carefully. Do not go to the edges of the black.
Stop and check movement. Use light pressure a little bit at a time.

I bored it too much.
Despite the improvement overall there is now a small clunk at the center which is annoying but livable

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New HOTAS joystick bases are available from Thrustmaster (but probably the same original problems):
https://www.mypilotstore.com/MyPilotStore/sep/14116

Another European company makes pricey ones that are supposed to be compatible and superior:
https://virpil-controls.eu/vpc-warbrd-base.html