I knew my brakes needed to be done.

I paid for the WHOLE brake pad, so I'm going to use the WHOLE brake pad! :)

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Bill, did you get that sorted? LED's and dimmers are a subject unto themselves. You said it was bright but you didn't say you actually installed a dimmer. I've recently had trouble with in-line cord dimmers on table lamps that weren't rated for LED. When that happens all sorts of strange things go on (and off).

I had never installed a dimmer with those lights. I had checked the wiring from the fixture back to the panel and found no issues. It was interesting that the lights would operate correctly until after an hour and then the flickering would begin. I ended up buying some home depot track lighting and returning the other lights.

The lamps I installed were dimmable leds and after I installed a dimmer that would work with them. Quite happy with this.

I had converted some low voltage pendants to line voltage with some Depot pendant light kits that were available, Worked out really well.

I know track isn't the most fashionable thing right now but if it keeps me from crawling around in the attic space, it is money well spent.

Finally got around to continuation of the front deck project - Phase 3.

Put up a section of 6'x8' bamboo siding. Goes well with the Polynesian theme I have going here. I have more work to do on that side so for now just tied it off of two of the 4x4 posts.

Phase 4 will be another extension of the deck outwards toward the front of the property. As it is sloped, this will provide useful square footage where before it was not. I plan to do this in tiers and will be built to encircle my specimen 5 trunk Pygmy Date Palm.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1640456619.JPG

Not from today, but from earlier this week. I'll spare the photograph of the finger.

Disc grinder PSA: this guy shaved off the dorsum (top) of his middle finger in a moment of inattention.

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Finished my rat rod front suspension, brakes, steering rack relocated. It has the original factory big brakes but the lowering spindle that was already installed is for standard application. I had to press on a sleeve over the inside bearing surface to accommodate the larger bearing. Then I had the bolt pattern changed, and the inside bearing cup machined .200" farther down.

I installed a Thunderbird power rack / pinion but needed to be relocated rearward to correct the steering geometry. I'm not sure if there is enough swing out at the tire when turned to lock, but I'll know when I drive it.

The front A frame was narrowed considerably, they retained the original truck lower control arms but used Camaro tubular upper control arms. All in all a real pain in the @ss with a mash up of different parts. Really, had I done it originally, I would've bought / installed a complete mustang II sub frame / steering assy and called it a day. You can only save so much money before it costs you 10 X the labor:cool::rolleyes:

Well, the other day I had posted about working on my dryer. I ended up replacing the control board after all. My wife and kids had been telling me of a funny smell, said it smelled like fish, coming from around the dryer, so yesterday I set out to investigate the funny smell. I pulled the dryer out from the wall, disconnected the vent hose thinking I would find some damp lint or something in there but it was clean. Okay, we had been using the dryer prior to my investigation by the way. So, next thing I did was unplug the dryer and when I did, I discovered the plug was hot and it had started melting around one of the spade/prongs, and this was a brand new power cord too. So, I got out the multimeter and checked the voltage in the outlet and it was as it should be. Next thing I did, I flipped the breaker off and took the cover off of the outlet and found a connector in the outlet was loose and was very burnt. Ah ha!!!! Off to Home Depot I go. They replaced my power cord free of charge and I got a new outlet. I am 100% convinced that this outlet is what caused the circuit board to start acting crazy. So, all is good now. I replaced the outlet and power cord.
Here are pics of the old outlet, you can see melted plastic on the backside, the new one and new power cord.
I'm glad I found this as this is what let's the smoke out of houses ya know. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...107120f962.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...014db2cf34.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...5d0db15795.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...80a4343c07.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...fc06440399.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...eb3d90e460.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...9891423967.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...a9bf086053.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...945c191bb2.jpg

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Hobie, I would say you need a plastic grommet, metal clamp, or a similar here. Vibrations will cause the sheet-metal to cut into the cord.

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Those outlets are sketchy! I had one on a house i was remodeling and plugged the stove in and the two terminals shorted together a lightning bolt came out! Who designs this crap. The new one looks much better with the divider

This is how it came from the factory but, good idea!!! I could take some rubber fuel line or vacuum line, split it and fit it over the edges of the hole there. Thanks!!!

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The house was built in 1977 and I believe that outlet was original to the house. I definitely like the design of the new one better and they were both from the same manufacturer.

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you can get grommets at the local hardware store, pop it in and forget about it

but I did exatly what you described for my swamp cooler in California and it rusted out after 15 years before any other problem came up

Good to know. Thanks.

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Apparently older Subaru fuel lines don't like -30 to -40 degree weather, so I'll be replacing some of them today since they started dripping gasoline on top of the engine. :p

Trying to repair the wiring on my brother's TR-7.
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LOL......I had two of them. Both drop head coupes. First was a silver '79 and the second was a white '80. Then I bought a '76 coupe parts car.

I kept and maintained the '80 for quite a few years. When I sold it a bunch of spare parts went with it.

Heck....I drove it to my brother's one summer back in the 90's and the gearbox went out just shy of the NC/Va state line. My brother drove down and we trailered it to his house. Then I called my buddy in Lehigh Acres, where I was living at the time (near Ft. Myers) and he broke into my garage and shipped to me a spare tranny I had. I changed it out on my brother's driveway and was able to drive back home - no worries. They are really easy to work on. I also kept extra cylinder heads and got so I could change one out in less than 1 hour.

The amount of money I sent to Victoria British over the years......:eek:

Here it is in '98 a few years after I moved here - and not long before I sold her.......

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Working on my '02 Silverado. Passenger door wouldn't latch.

I have a replacement latch assembly coming from Amazon - only $36.

Funny thing is I ordered it this morning and it stated Friday delivery.

For some reason I looked at my order again just a little while ago and realized I ordered the wrong side. Cancelled that order and re-ordered the right side and now it's coming tomorrow.

They're not called "Door latch assemblies" BTW. The proper name is: "Power Door Lock Actuator w/latch assembly."

Plow truck needs a new floor . I put it off way past what is acceptable . Cab is resting on the frame.
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