Tool - which one do you hate and why?
 

For me - every fkin' weed whacker I've ever owned. I've never found one that wasn't a pita when it came to keeping string on it.
I don't like either of my Lincoln grease guns either. It may not be the fault of the gun. Thanks to Paul's suggestion I'm getting a Lock-N-Lube end for one of them. My birthday is coming up. I'm telling MrsWD I want a Lock-N-Lube. Can't wait to see the look on her face.

There's this guy who posts in PARF...

edit-and what LWJ said about flat head screwdrivers

My Craftsman Jack Stands. They support fine, but pulling the pin to drop the jack will result in a blood blister on the side of my hand 50% of the time. I never remember to be cautious.

I want really really good ones that I don’t have to jack a vehicle to match up with one of the elevation holes in the adjustment range.

You all have done it. Jack up vehicle, slide jack stand under. Up a notch it won’t fit, down a notch...too low! Hmmm, let me jack it up some more..oh too high, pull pin..clank! Ouch! Blood blister. Kick jack. Cuss.

I don't care for standard screw drivers.

Great for prying and doing other non screw twisting stuff. But screws? Give me Phillips, torx, Allen, star, or ???

Those L-shaped allen wrenches. They will strip an allen head far too often. They can be almost impossible to even get into the allen head to begin with.

Guddamned, POS, f'in worthless, cheapass shoplight gift from my daughter that somedamnhow knows how to shine directly into my eyes no matter what I'm doing.

Jackstands are usually a pain in the rear. I prefer the kind that's like this to the hole in the center. It's a bit easier to lock and unlock, although they do have to go up a bit to unlock.
https://www.bendpak.com/RJS-3T-Jack-Stand.png

headlight....

Headlight? You mean one of those...

...Whoa.

Kind of a love hate relationship with sheetmetal shears. When they work they are great. But when the blades get funky an absolute nightmare. My milwaukee was crap from the get go i had to modify the head to stay on the damn thing. Too much abuse its all wore out and cracked on the buisness end now i use a porter cable air powered one. It didnt work worth a damn from the start I had to rework the blades a bit. Now its acceptable. But man there has to be a better way. Plazma cutter? I think so

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1588467863.jpg

Yeah, I know what you mean. I do it about every time I use a jackstand. I have the ratcheting kind (like Steve posted), but they still have specific heights that they lock in. There are more options than with the hole and pin kind, but still - I go through the same dance you described over and over with them.

I hate when that happens! Every time I hate when that happens.

The straight tip screwdriver, because it means a POS slotted screw. Why slotted screws are still made, I don’t know.

I have the 6-ton ratcheting stands, and some that are even heavier than that. For the Porsche I use Esco stands with the pin.

Husqvarna 4-cycle weed wacker with pro quality Husky string is what I normally use, but when it's time to get serious, I use an Echo with a saw blade on it. Heavy as hell, but it'll cut small trees down.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1588478432.jpg
When you get way out there in the boonies, you want your gear to work.

Those old cheap job site table saws fence (contractor's saw). The damn fence constantly need adjusting. Not mine, but someone else's that was on the job. I started out with a Grizzly but I built a fence out of a 4" alum sq with a uni-strut similar to the Biesemeyer. What a waste of time adjusting those stupid thing on the job, or the shop.

The stupid ball joint tool for the 914.

https://cdn8.pelicanparts.com/catalo...280B-M1229.jpg

I purchased a L-N-Lube....then proceeded to drop more $ on a set of attachments in a case....this place sucks when it comes to buying stuff you've never heard of before...or mebbe it's just me :D.

I've had a pro-grade Stihl 2-cycle weed whacker for years...keep it loaded with Echo .90 Crossfire (I think that's it) line. It's a beast and I abuse the hell out of it clearing around ponds, with small trees starting to grow, etc.

But the PITA line deal is just part of it's charm too ;)

Hilarious description :)

Ive decided never to jack up a car again and instead obtained a display cabinet that I can look at each day to remind me of all of the fun without the blisters :)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1588505647.jpg

THIS! Before I even opened this thread that's what my mind immediately thought of...

Cheap locking pliers that loosen over time, and won't grip strongly, also Crescent type adjustable wrenches that the thumb screw locks up on.

Speaking of blood blisters......

Lineman pliers. I lost mine and I'm pleased.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1588514799.jpg

Ha! :-)

the tool is stoopid?

or the design that requires a tool like that ??

I don't know whether to vote (or caucus) with the "POS slotted screw" people (again, not the tool as per above, but the design)

... or with the crappy rewind string trimmer folks...

Any cheap ones...

Buying cheap, usually end up with buying twice :(:rolleyes::(

Just looking at that creeps me out.

Any and all flashlights. Sooner or later, they all quit working.

Stupid me, I’ve never thrown one away, thinking that someday I’ll fix it.

Hand operated siphoning / bleeding tools.

I thought we covered all that in the tech forum. You've got to use a big ol' pipe wrench to take that nut off. Probably a breaker bar too, and probably you'll have to use your legs to push against the bar. The reason is dirt gets in that stupid nut. The special tool is used so you can tighten it once the threads are clean, to torque spec with a torque wrench.

I've seen people cut the nut off with a dremel many times. It's because they just haven't thought it through.

Craftsman ratchets. My mid 70's versions got stolen a while back; the modern replacements are such pieces of crap that they sit idle taking up space in my toolbox.

Harbor freight sells better ratchets than Craftsman and that in a nutshell is what's wrong with the world.

Yes and yes. It's a Porsche special tool that costs like $60. And removing the damn ball joint is still PITA. In most cases it's probably easier with a pipe wrench, but I bought the "special" tool, so....I fight with it before giving up and just using the pipe wrench. And that makes me stupid. :o

Not dirt. Rust. The only way to remove the nut is a dremel. It is a terrible design. All of it!

I spent a year with this thing one weekend. Still traumatized....

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-120-Volt-Breaker-Hammer-BH2760VCB/dp/B0046REI8I

there's also a big drill called "The Arm Breaker" - when I had something that needed its use, I hired a tough kid to use it

might be a 3/4" drill - I ferget

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1588562696.jpg

It's definitely old school. The 987/ 986/ 997 front ends are super easy to work on.

Someone mentioned the spring compressor earlier. If you are methodical, then you find they're easy to use. "New Wayne" has one that is superb. One bolt. I'm referring to of course, the Schwaben one from ECS Tuning. You still probably want to use anti-seize unless the torque specs call for dry. Even so, that bottom nut on the 911 strut needs anti-seize. Tie rod/ steering knuckle too.

My dad splurged on a bag of total crap tools at harbor freight. Bad screwdrivers, bad vice grips, bad wrenches. They look like tools but will only damage what they touch. Worst of all are the channel locks. He put this pile of crap on his boat for 'emergencies', but thats the last place to use bad tools.

Whenever i work on it and finish a job, whenever i take a break, i celebrate by giving one tool a float test. Super cathartic. He gets so mad when i tell him but the whole set of junk cost less than a bottle of wine, let alone what he saves having me do the simple maintenance.

I deposited a new set of tools in the old location, mostly reasonable stuff from lowes.

I normally use a channel lock for something scrungy, like pulling a stuck socket off a bolt head, but those great neck units are bad beyond words, if they were soft plastic they wouldnt shed chrome colored flakes...

IMHO phillips screws are joining slotted in my book. I go out of my way to buy torx & square heads, phillips are ok, if I encounter a slotted screw it goes right in the garbage, and gets swapped.

However, a table saw is the only tool I own that has done permanent damage. Almost 2 years, and 1/4" off my left index finger, I can finally type and pick up objects with it.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1588596694.jpg

Just yesterday I pulled bumper off of a truck, and reached for the HF set I bought on a whim that had through holes in the sockets/handle. Much easier than a deep socket with the long, rusty studs and no working room.

https://www.harborfreight.com/sae-metric-go-thru-socket-set-21-pc-62305.html

Same here. Phillips are just not worth the effort on any screw longer than 1"

I was at a cabinet shop the other day and the guy demonstrated the safety table saw. It is amazing! He touched the side of the blade an it stopped in less than 1/4 of a rotation.

SawStop. Interesting story about the founding and history of the company. I bought the Professional Cabinet saw for my shop about 3 years ago. Not only is it very safe, but it is also high quality and very accurate.