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Here;s some pics:
the outside of the door, nice from 20 feet. It's 42" wide, don't know why it looks so narrow in the pic. ![]() Lower-left section, this is the worst of the damage. You can see how thick the varnish is. ![]() ![]() Lower right area, in this pic you can see a little of the white discoloration. Before I hit it with the old english scratch cover, about 1/4 of the lower section had that white stuff on it. Don't know if it's discolored varnish or just hard water deposits? it takes a few months to reappear. ![]() |
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That kinda reminds me of wood shop in 9th grade.
If we didn't want to hassle with getting the sanding and finishing just right we'd hit the wood with a propane torch to char the surface, then go over it with a wire brush to remove most of the char, and then finish. Easy peazy, if you're looking for something to go with your lava lamp. Not as popular now as it was then .... ![]() But if the idea was to just get the finish off and THEN sand it back down to smooth that soda blast would work, but I'm not sure how sanding it would save. ![]() ![]() Last edited by sammyg2; 07-22-2020 at 08:28 AM.. |
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It's hard to tell from the photo but do you have some veneer on the bottom left side of the door (bottom of the left style) that's damaged?
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sammy, the trick is gonna be to not damage the inset glass
I got the same problem.. |
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I'm thinking this is going to be a project that can only be solved with lots and lots of time and lots of elbow grease, and time.
And some learning thrown in. No quick fix, no finish it in a day stuff. Gotta get psyched up for it. On the plus side, it's an excuse to buy more tools. |
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Why pay some monkey to screw up the job, when you can do it yourself for free?
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Meanwhile other things are still happening. |
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you can hire a good painter here for $99/hr
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lime green maybe ..... the wife would kill me.
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^The major mistake there is bending-over and working on the floor...instead of on stands...at belly-button height.
Don't try to blast clean irregular materials. (unless it's on purpose..) Trees grow in concentric rings. Cambrium and something else I ferget. Some material hard. Some soft. Doing this almost guarantees sanding down another 1/4" of door on both sides.
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Meanwhile other things are still happening. Last edited by john70t; 07-22-2020 at 04:24 PM.. |
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Whatever you do it won't be perfect but it will look wonderful at 10 feet. What else could you ask for?
That door is in great shape compared to most I tackled. When we were in the 90's recession I did a lot of this type of work because it was there. It wasn't fun but it was a quick $250 for a day's work. The secret is to get a nice full coat of SMOOTH finish over the whole door so that it reflected some light which some people call a shine. Not a gloss. They don't see beyond that, trust me. |
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I think I'd take a hard look at painting the door, if the style of the house would work with a painted door. Less repair time and a longer life.
I recently refinished the front door of my old house and that took the best part of a week. Mine was considerably larger but also perfectly flat, so it could be easily sanded mechanically. Along the way I learned that there really aren't any transparent stains that are intended for exterior use. Some solids in the stain are required for it to stand up to the UV. Stained wood looks good but it's a lousy solution for exterior use in a sunny climate. |
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Quote:
I have a mahogany screen door at the front entry and it lasts 2 years at best before needing stripping and finishing. It does face the morning sun. |
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Quote:
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I've got my dad's old belt sander with a bunch of new, 80 grit belts that would take that present finish off in no time flat.
I'd go with semi-gloss.
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Scott '78 SC mit Sportomatic - Sold |
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Is urethane better (longer lasting) than something like Cetol?
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Quote:
Gonna need more power Maybe one of them funny little sanders with the triangle thing. ![]() Last edited by sammyg2; 07-23-2020 at 11:44 AM.. |
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Yeah, I know about nooks and crannies.
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Scott '78 SC mit Sportomatic - Sold |
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