Rehabbing my workshop. Need advice

[mepstein]

Originally Posted by MBAtarga

How about the roof and structure? Any rehab planed there? You could extend the gable end to have a 1' min eave over the front - that would reduce the amount of water and weathering occurring on the entrance.

I would like to do that. It would look more like my house gable. I’m not going to do the roof yet. It would make the project to big and expensive right now. But I was thinking I could use some metal roofing on a gable structure to make the overhang. So a bit of an idea on what to do but not how to.

[mepstein]

If you add blue board to the block wall, you can furr out the wall above to make a flush wall. Personally, I wouldn’t bother furring it out above. It would also affect the windows, in that they would be recessed further in.

—-Windows are coming out and not getting replaced but there are already a bunch of outlets on the walls.

Rock wool might be mouse proof, but it has a low R value compared to fiberglass IIRC. It’s more expensive as well.

—-It is more money but it’s a 2 car garage and not a house so not a lot more. Right or wrong, I’m pretty convinced that I’m going to use it.

My .02 is the block wall has dirt against it, so temps are probably stable. Leave it as is it or seal it with Dry Lok or similar inside. Pull the interior drywall down, rewire if you want to add outlets, etc., insulate with fiberglass, add new drywall or maybe some thing more durable (purple or green board ). Paint with white gloss paint.

—-Sounds like a plan. It has ugly interior wood paneling that has warped from the humidity. I’ll read up about purple and green board.

Replace garage door with an insulated door if needed.

—-Very needed and planned. They are pretty cheap without windows.

Phase 2: scrape off the old parging and re-parge. It doesn’t have to be pretty. Remove the T1-11, install treated plywood for the first 48”, install OSB or plywood and vinyl siding, add gutters and down spouts. Grade outside to force water away from the bldg.

—-Sound like a plan.

[Alan A]

Originally Posted by mepstein

So my block already sticks out a couple inches from the stud wall. Once I add the foam board to the cinderblock, it will probably be a 6” difference. How did you make the transition? If you have any good pics, or suggestions, I’m at - mark@markepstein.net
Thanks mark

It’s a mess and I’ll take a better picture tomorrow. Block under the grey.
Furring studs, foam, drywall, beadboard to protect and wood for shelf.
Did it all myself - not particularly difficult with a little patience.

[Alan A]

Other side has cabinets. Same idea though.

[mepstein]

Originally Posted by Alan A

Other side has cabinets. Same idea though.

That looks good. I'm still lacking a bit of vision since my block steps from a 4 foot height in the back to about 6 inches at the front. I suppose I could build it up so it's an even height all around.

[1990C4S]

Alan has a nice shop.

[rfuerst911sc]

I would re-think having windows , natural light and ventilation are good to have . You can go to any big box store and get decent quality vinyl windows in stock for an affordable price .

How hard would it be to scab onto existing studs to get them flush with the block on the inside ? You might consider seeing if anyone in your area does foam insulation injected into the block . I had that done to our block home in Florida made a huge difference .

The mini split will do well , I have a 2 ton unit in a 24x26 with 12' ceilings that does a great job of heating/cooling/drying .

[mepstein]

Yes, the pics of Alan's shop has made me pause regarding the windows.

[cabmandone]

It's weird that the block wall was stair stepped. The cost savings vs just carrying the wall straight couldn't have been much vs the time it took to stairstep the walls during framing.

My idea is kind of hard for me to explain but you could put furring strips down, run J channel at an angle (like you'd see where a gable meets a flat wall) and start your lower pieces with an angle cut so they slide into the J channel and run level.

If you're taking the sheeting down inside, you might consider having a spray foam insulation company put an inch or so of spray foam insulation all the way around then finishing with batting insulation. That along with the exterior house wrap would give you a pretty good weather seal.

[mepstein]

Originally Posted by cabmando

It's weird that the block wall was stair stepped. The cost savings vs just carrying the wall straight couldn't have been much vs the time it took to stairstep the walls during framing.

My idea is kind of hard for me to explain but you could put furring strips down, run J channel at an angle (like you'd see where a gable meets a flat wall) and start your lower pieces with an angle cut so they slide into the J channel and run level.

If you're taking the sheeting down inside, you might consider having a spray foam insulation company put an inch or so of spray foam insulation all the way around then finishing with batting insulation. That along with the exterior house wrap would give you a pretty good weather seal.

I will take the T1-11 sheathing down. After 30 years, it's done. I looked into spray foam but it's budget busting compared to conventional insulation. I'm going to be careful about sealing up the cracks to try to get the maximum benefit from the insulation and air sealing that I'm using. Some special attention to the garage door. No windows is also an energy saver.
I've also thought about some stone facing on the step area, under the siding. Expensive stuff but I would need so little that it might be acceptable to the budget. Putting it on the lower foot or 2 on the front might look nice and keep the sheathing off the ground.

[cabmandone]

Good idea on the stone veneer. No doubt the spray foam is expensive but it's great for sealing up a structure. What are you planning to use for heat?

[mepstein]

Originally Posted by cabmando

Good idea on the stone veneer. No doubt the spray foam is expensive but it's great for sealing up a structure. What are you planning to use for heat?

12K btu panasonic mini split. I don't need it hot, just take the chill off. 20x24 first floor with 8' ceilings and a 2nd floor for storage. I will tear out the cheap pull down stairs, make the opening larger and have my local lumber shop build a basic set of stairs that will have a couple steps up to a platform in the far corner and then turn 90 to more steps up to the 2nd floor.

I'm also planning to build a large shed off the back to serve as a dirty room. Blasting, grinding, etc. A deck style base without a traditional foundation. One portion will be walled off for a large compressor.

I had my electrician neighbor stop by to confirm I was good for a large compressor, mini split, lift and welder. I can't use them all at once but as long as I'm careful, I can use them in the shop.

[billybek]

Roxul rock wool insulation typically has a higher R value than fiberglass.
R-14 instead of R-12 for a 2x4 wall.
It is available in your area.
Easy to handle but a bit more expensive than fiberglass. I love the stuff and use it every time I open up a wall for a renovation. Safe and sound on most interior walls too.

[RWebb]

dunno if cement board siding makes sense back east but it is a good idea in the fire zones of the West

might help with moisture, insects, etc.

[Alan A]

Originally Posted by mepstein

That looks good. I'm still lacking a bit of vision since my block steps from a 4 foot height in the back to about 6 inches at the front. I suppose I could build it up so it's an even height all around.

You can extend the 2x3s pinned to the block up so they are all the same height. Tie them together at the top with a 2x4 across the tops and horizontal extenders tied into the studs that are there already. Very easy and cheap to do.

I'd probably put a 2x4 across the studs too to rest the horizontal pieces on, but I'm a bit anal about weight handling.

[Alan A]

Originally Posted by 1990C4S

Alan has a nice shop.

Thanks for that.

The best piece is on the back wall behind these pictures.
More cabinets, TV, sound system. Still need to get a bench top fridge, but since this is under the family room and there's a door to the basement with a full size fridge 15' away it wasn't really a priority.

Took a long time (and more $ than I want to admit to) to make it this nice. At this juncture it's about 90% done.

[Alan A]

Ok so I got tired of looking at camel routes and elasticsearch - needed a break.

There's a better picture of the left wall so you can see the beadboard without all the crap covering it and one of the back to give you some idea of how nice it is to have a place to shove everything.



I'm adding HD cabinets as they come into stock locally to get all the cans that were on the shelf put away. The stuff gets too dusty if left out.
If this was my shop I'd try to budget for something that has doors to stick stuff behind for that reason alone.

The only thing I'd change if I were doing it again is swap some of the undercounter cupboards for even more drawers. They are incredibly useful for shoving pretty much everything into. (I'd do the same in the kitchen too - it's way too easy to get used to opening a drawer rather than rooting in a cupboard)

Finally a gratuitous shot of the back. More cabinets and I'm still in need of more storage...



GL.

[mepstein]

Originally Posted by RWebb

dunno if cement board siding makes sense back east but it is a good idea in the fire zones of the West

might help with moisture, insects, etc.

I have hundreds of trees (thousand probaby) surrounding my house so making sure my insurance is always paid up is really the only way to protect from fire. The cement board is very nice but we have shingle style vinyl siding on our house so I'll use vinyl on the shop.
Originally the house siding and deck was all cedar but carpenter bees and woodpeckers did a job on it so I went to plastic on the house and deck.

[mepstein]

Back when I had more money in my pocket, I did this project. The GC I hired made up fake material invoices and ran away with my money so I had to buy all the materials 2X and GC it myself.

[mepstein]

Started on the tear down. Every stud bay is contaminated with mouse crap. Even had one scurry out as I was pulling off the paneling. I will be ditching the fiberglass in favor of rock wool. Once I pull all the insulation out and remove the exterior siding, I’ll bleach and power wash the studs and base plate. Then probably brush on a coat of Kills primer.