Rehabbing my workshop. Need advice

[mepstein]

I’m rehabbing my workshop so I can change it from a damp, dank storage area to a usable and comfortable place to work and store my toys. Ive been doing research and watching tons of YouTube. I will be removing the T1-11 siding, fiberglass insulation and interior wood paneling and starting over with wood sheathing, house wrap, vinyl siding, rock wool insulation and either OSB or drywall interior. I will use a mini split to control temperature and a small dehumidifier if needed. We live in the woods so it’s really humid most of the time with all our tree cover. I’m replacing the garage and entry door and removing but not replacing all the windows. The budget is a concern and I see no need to spend money on windows for this shop.

A couple questions for now.
1. I think the the way the siding is stepped down is ugly. How can I make the vinyl siding look better.

2. The cinderblock has a thin layer of concrete parging that is failing. Suggestions?

What should I do to insulate and finish the cinderblock half walls inside the building. They are about 4’ high in the back and step down to about 6” at the front. I didn’t want to use regular insulation because it will intrude too much into the shop and floor space. It’s only a 20x24 foot building.
Thanks in advance.

[dad911]

Get the leaves away. Pitch dirt away and make sure there is at least 8" from siding down to grade. Fix Gutters & downspouts, clear and terminate away from the foundation.

I'd pull down the inside paneling first. If the T1-11 is sound, it can serve as sheathing for new siding.

The steps really don't bother me. Plant a few shrubs?

How bad is the slab? Moisture may be coming up through it.

[mepstein]

Get the leaves away. Pitch dirt away and make sure there is at least 8" from siding down to grade. Fix Gutters & downspouts, clear and terminate away from the foundation.
Yep, working on cleanup, leaf removal, Gutters and downspouts will be replaced. Going to fix drainage, lay out landscaping fabric an top with gravel on all 4 sides of building.

I'd pull down the inside paneling first. If the T1-11 is sound, it can serve as sheathing for new siding.
---It's in bad shape when you get close. I thought I might patch it but decided to do it right and take it all down. The building has mice so I'm sure when I pull the insulation out, the t1-11 will be a mess on the inside. I want to start fresh. It's 30 years old.

The steps really don't bother me.
--There is so much shade that I don't want to landscape. Maybe hardscape later on.

How bad is the slab? Moisture may be coming up through it.
---Great shape. Inside is humid but that's from lack of airflow and humidity outside. I've checked the slab and it stays bone dry.

[1990C4S]

Have you put a 3'x3' sheet of plastic on the floor for 48 hours? Was it dry?

You should reparge the brick, and probably tar it for waterproofing.

Once you redo the siding the shed will look fine.

I would think about styrofoam sheets on the inside.

[stevej37]

You will notice a big difference by using a dehumidifier.
I have a 60 pint in mine and sometimes it's full every day...esp in the spring thaw.
Walking into it with the low humidity feels like air conditioning.

Plus...it keeps the rust at bay.

[dad911]

After you pull out the insulation, spray any evidence of mice/rodents with this stuff: Back-a-zap

[mepstein]

Have you put a 3'x3' sheet of plastic on the floor for 48 hours? Was it dry?
Yes

You should reparge the brick, and probably tar it for waterproofing.
If I put tar on the exposed block, it will look ugly.

Once you redo the siding the shed will look fine. I agree

I would think about styrofoam sheets on the inside. On the block? Then cover with OSB?

[mepstein]

Originally Posted by dad911

After you pull out the insulation, spray any evidence of mice/rodents with this stuff: Back-a-zap

Since I'm removing the interior and exterior, I'll just his any mouse areas or mold on the framing with bleach and a pressure washer.

[john70t]

Mice and squirrels will do some damage. When I had my roof re-done, the upper half of the insulation was completely missing or turned brown because of incorrect flashing gaps. You can stuff outside gaps with course steel wool and use ultrasonic deterrents inside but those don't penetrate through drywall. Rockwool insulation is really pricey but is supposed to be fireproof/mouseproof/etc

Keeping moisture out is a lot easier than dealing with it inside. Good idea for the perimeter drainage plans. Might consider waterproofing the outside concrete below grade, especially the uphill side where snow collects high. Concrete is porous and moisture travels. Cutting a few trees to get a bit more sun on the building might help.

Those small dehumidifiers don't seem to last more than a few years for me. Having a gravity drain tube to the outside will make it turn-key but winter freezing will definitely be an issue. A sump pump might be more involved than you want to get but it keeps the water table low.

[mepstein]

Originally Posted by stevej37

You will notice a big difference by using a dehumidifier.
I have a 60 pint in mine and sometimes it's full every day...esp in the spring thaw.
Walking into it with the low humidity feels like air conditioning.

Plus...it keeps the rust at bay.

I'm getting a mini split for the a/c. Just using a dehumidifier in a 95 degree building (today's temp) just makes it hotter and dry. We do use one in the basement of our house and it has a pump and a line to the outside.

[mepstein]

Originally Posted by john70t

Mice and squirrels will do some damage. When I had my roof re-done, the upper half of the insulation was completely missing or turned brown because of incorrect flashing gaps. You can stuff outside gaps with course steel wool and use ultrasonic deterrents inside but those don't penetrate through drywall. Rockwool insulation is really pricey but is supposed to be fireproof/mouseproof/etc

Keeping moisture out is a lot easier than dealing with it inside. Good idea for the perimeter drainage plans. Might consider waterproofing the outside concrete below grade, especially the uphill side where snow collects high. Concrete is porous and moisture travels. Cutting a few trees to get a bit more sun on the building might help.

Those small dehumidifiers don't seem to last more than a few years for me. Having a gravity drain tube to the outside will make it turn-key but winter freezing will definitely be an issue. A sump pump might be more involved than you want to get but it keeps the water table low.

We are on a hill so drainage isn't an issue. There is no water coming into the building. It's all east coast humidity. There is a swale in back of the shed to divert water. We have heavy tree cover that holds in the humidity along with the forest floor. I could remove 50 big trees and still have too much shade. I just have to live with the tree cover.

[Alan A]

I used 2x4 flat (wide side) to the wall on 24” centers with the pink solid foam insulation between them. Epoxy floor.
Drywall and then beadboard on the bottom half of the walls. No moisture issues though.

[RWebb]

what's the budget?

... if you put in a new header you might be able to put a double wide door in...

[LEAKYSEALS951]

Your gutters need more foliage to soak up the water.

[mepstein]

Originally Posted by RWebb

what's the budget?

... if you put in a new header you might be able to put a double wide door in...

I’m not really interested in a double door. Then I would need to open the garage door every time I enter and exit.

[mepstein]

Originally Posted by Alan A

I used 2x4 flat (wide side) to the wall on 24” centers with the pink solid foam insulation between them. Epoxy floor.
Drywall and then beadboard on the bottom half of the walls. No moisture issues though.

I was thinking the foam board would work. Not sure how to transition from the stud wall to the block.

[Alan A]

I screwed 2x3 directly onto the wall - tapcon ftw.
Glued the foam board with construction adhesive.
It was about 22” Between boards so I trimmed 24” foam to fit. Mostly for drywall size.

[mepstein]

Originally Posted by Alan A

I screwed 2x3 directly onto the wall - tapcon ftw.
Glued the foam board with construction adhesive.
It was about 22” Between boards so I trimmed 24” foam to fit. Mostly for drywall size.

So my block already sticks out a couple inches from the stud wall. Once I add the foam board to the cinderblock, it will probably be a 6” difference. How did you make the transition? If you have any good pics, or suggestions, I’m at - mark@markepstein.net
Thanks mark

[MBAtarga]

How about the roof and structure? Any rehab planed there? You could extend the gable end to have a 1' min eave over the front - that would reduce the amount of water and weathering occurring on the entrance.

[A930Rocket]

If you add blue board to the block wall, you can furr out the wall above to make a flush wall. Personally, I wouldn’t bother furring it out above. It would also affect the windows, in that they would be recessed further in.

Rock wool might be mouse proof, but it has a low R value compared to fiberglass IIRC. It’s more expensive as well.

My .02 is the block wall has dirt against it, so temps are probably stable. Leave it as is it or seal it with Dry Lok or similar inside. Pull the interior drywall down, rewire if you want to add outlets, etc., insulate with fiberglass, add new drywall or maybe some thing more durable (purple or green board ). Paint with white gloss paint.

Replace garage door with an insulated door if needed.

Phase 2: scrape off the old parging and re-parge. It doesn’t have to be pretty. Remove the T1-11, install treated plywood for the first 48”, install OSB or plywood and vinyl siding, add gutters and down spouts. Grade outside to force water away from the bldg.