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I would dig dirt away from around it. Then put a worn out/throw away chain on the chainsaw and cut the bulk of it away. Grab the sawsall with a wood cutting blade and tackle the roots. Put the dirt back and have a beer or three.
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Also - cut the stump while it is still green. Once dry, it is like cutting raw kryptonite and will kill blades. It is harder than rock and will never rot in a zillion years. Bruce Willis couldn't drill through it. Black Locust = Chuck Norris of wood. When ACME disintegrators come to vaporize your house in the year 5907, that stump will still be there, singing like Michigan J. Frog.
Cut flush soon if you can. |
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I don't think, I would want a stumpgrinder or chainsaw near concrete.
Cut back as much as possible, drill holes in root, add diesel, light. |
My neighbor across the street is remodeling her master bath, and supposedly she has found termites during the demolition. Gonna tent the house. Want me to see if she can catch a few of them (or maybe the queen) and ship them your way?
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Cut it as low as you can and then use one of these to get down to the roots.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1601017751.jpg |
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Seen this in action for those worried about chainsaw and the dirt.
This will not work if your dirt is rocky. Dig loose dirt around stump, try to get a kinda deep hole near the tree. Go to a boating supply store, get a manual sump pump. Or order it online, not expensive. Get a hose, put a nozzle sprayer on it. Hose the dirt around the roots to a soup, suck it out with the hand pump. Cut the exposed roots with the chain saw. Works on small stumps like that. |
Id like to share a quick little stump story . Before I bought my building, I rented commercial space from Harmony Trucking inc.
The owners , were Charlie ( rip) and Dave Stump.. The owner of the property next door, had a landscape company, and had a big sign, right next to the highway offering Stump Removal. I grinned every morning pulling into work . |
Lol. Fred, you can't make up stuff funnier than real life.
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Just ordered one of those wheels for my grinder.
I may try to dig out the center and pour hot coals inside. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1601043551.jpg |
What's the budget? lol
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I can tell that most posters here have never removed a sizeable stump. Men being men have a need to offer advice when all they have is creative thought and no real experience. Cut it flush and you lose any opportunity to use leverage to pull it back and forth to help with loosening and exposing roots. A stump grinder is on a center mounted pivot. There may be some offset models to cut flush with a fence, etc.. You have to be able to line up with the center mass of the stump in order to sweep the arc. And move back and then forward again. Tree stumps wedged in between concrete footings or next to them are going to be tough as the tree will conform to the shape of the concrete including undercutting it. There are not enough pics to even begin to access this situation. Lastly, I can't tell when posters are serious or not if they don't indicate. The use of fire is totally out of reason. It won't burn in the first place...you know the rest. Helping to accelerate rot is a very practical solution if time permits. Depending on the tree, figure 5 to 10 years to accomplish removal by rot. |
A stump grinder service will not like any chance that his "blade" will hit concrete/rocks/metal/etc. As mentioned getting a SG in there and perfectly situated looks problematic.
SDS Max with a sharp bit seems like a good idea along with a long saws-all blade. It is okay for the blade to hit dirt - just wears it out and you put in a new blade as needed. Hard to tell the complete situation without a more zoomed out picture. |
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I would (and have) remove that stump with a chainsaw (with an old stump chain ;)), an axe, splitting wedges and a sledgehammer. BTDT more than a few times.... and yes, it will be a helluva workout :). |
Stumped?
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Obviously there are a multitude of ways... It's just wood after all. Pick one. |
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