Read entire thread.

Here's my contribution.

If you can get as much removed as possible above ground (I would use a chainsaw for this myself) there is a product you can spray on any leftover exposed wood (including the cambium tissue) that will kill what's leftover so it will not re-sprout.

This is important when you have a species that doesn't die easily and wants to keep re-sprouting foliage - even after you've amputated everything above ground.

The product is called Tordon RTU. You can buy in in a quart size and it is used straight - not diluted (RTU = Ready To Use). Around $25/Qt.

I use a small spray bottle with mine and just spray any exposed tissue I can see and do it right after cutting so the cut is fresh.

Sawzall is too much work for the whole thing - that's where a chainsaw comes in.

Dow AgroSciences RTU548 Tordon RTU Herbicide QT Size

Im burning my stump pile tomorrow night, its huge ! Ill snap a few pictures. I took out 11 trees 4 years ago, and I have been trying to burn off the stumps for all these years, they were just about gone, and then I lost 3 bigger trees last season with all the rains, and winds we had . One took out my tow truck, and another fell on my trailer. Im pretty over trees at this point .
. Its going to burn for a couple of days .
The power company dropped 2 really large pines this spring, and left me the stumps. They popped out really easy for as big as they were. The roots are really shallow . Kind of fun work with a backhoe.

thats a nasty situation. All the stumps iv taken out were with hard work a crappy chainsaw axes bars and jacks. I would just go at it with a chainsaw and fully expect to kill a chain. A pressure washer should help too. Nothin to it but to do it.

I’ve been through this many times. Cutting up high gets you nowhere, and removes the leverage you can use to apply force by pushing and pulling.
Baz’s suggestion to use Tordon is excellent advice. It won’t help you get it out, but it will keep it from coming back. We use it on Japanese Honeysuckle.

^^^ Agree... that cut is wasted effort and not good... and with a dull chain :D. I have old "stump chains" that I put on (sharpened) for work like this. Dirt dulls them after a single cut or two, so I'm constantly hitting them a few strokes with a file on a regular interval during the process. A dull chain is like a butter knife ... I usually don't let them even get dull... by then it's time to put them on my bench sharpener.

Looks like asphalt on top, Asphalt saw, couple bags of cold patch, out with the stump, in with some fill stone, cover with cold patch. How to out with the stump, saw and a mini ex.

BTW if you're gonna use a sawzall, I think I used Milwaukee Axe blades when chopping out roots on a stump I removed. They also make a nice pruning blade with aggressive teeth.

That isn't cut high. I'd have to post many pics. That is the lowest I can cut on the grass side and am at a crazy, read dangerous, angle. The tree is in a double 3D decline in relation to grass and pavement. That cut is 8-12"+ below the pavement.

This chain is now dull after cutting up an entire tree. Going to get a new one and have this one sharpened.

Once I have most of the stump and large roots cut away, I will chemically kill the rest. Just have to have get enough cut out first.

Can you snap a pic that gives us a bigger view? Do you have a round chain file? Get one and use it as soon as your chain loses it's edge. Let it get dull and you're doing it wrong. Don't use a new chain unless your current one is totally shot and can't be ground "true"... it's now your "stump chain".

Practice cussing ;)

Baz-thanks for this tip-I'm doing battle with close to an acre of alianthus, and will certainly use this product. Cutting has been a hassle and couterproductive.

New chains are actually cheaper than my time. So I may just buy 1 or 2 more new chains and be done.

Nope. I have a couple of new chains for all of my saws, but one touch in the dirt and even a new chain needs to be hit with a file.... takes just a few minutes.

But you do what ya want to :D

If you consider to cost of your time, it will be cheaper to hire a pro to do it.

I don't trust most people to do what they are supposed to do. and they will just rip everything up and cause problems for me.

We have a far different point of view of people and professional business.

It's hard being a perfectionist and always doing a job, any job, at the highest level.

99% of my business contracts have turned out more than acceptable. I just don't focus on that 1%.

This is a frigging stump that needs to be removed. I am sure there are competent stump removal companies out there that can come in and get rhe thing done in a day to your satisfaction.

LOL... so what grade would you give yourself on this project so far :D?

One last post... if you don't want to do what experience has taught many others .... keep a chain sharp. My dealers don't carry them, nobody uses them, and they can't be easily resharpened, but consider buying a titanium coated chain. It'll cost twice as much (30 bucks for a 12" baby saw), but will hold up better for dirty stump work.

Good luck Shaun!

I don't really understand what you are trying to accomplish and I may not be understanding what I'm seeing in the photo - but that won't stop me from telling you how to do it. ;)

It looks like everything to the right of the white line is growing over some concrete. If so, I would cut straight down the white line. Instead of ruining multiple saw chains I would use a sawsall.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1601141082.jpg

I learned that lesson too.

At least get some info from a stump grinder tho

I get it, but it's a $100 job for a guy with a grinder. Check facebook Marketplace, and stand over them so they don't screw up.

I was like you, but now that I'm pushing 60 I wish I could 'buy back' some of that 'perfectionist time' that in the long run just didn't matter.

SmileWavy