Originally Posted by Wayne 962 (Post 11184490)

In the case with the tank, I don't see any spot where one would be able to put a "receptor?"?

Ultra sound works differently by bouncing sound waves off of stuff. That might work.

Originally Posted by 908/930 (Post 11184533)

I just tried detecting a small powerful magnet through 1/4 aluminium with a small compass, can easily point to it from 4 inches away. Pretty low tec but better then getting arrested trying to buy a cobalt 60 source to shoot a X ray, LOL.

Originally Posted by Prestallion (Post 11184542)

Take an image from the top down to get your cross-car and fore/aft location, and then an image from the side view to get your up/down position.

Originally Posted by Wayne 962 (Post 11184583)

Hmm, good point, I hadn't thought of top-bottom. That would give some clues. Anyone got a spare x-ray machine? I didn't find one at Harbor Freight tonight! :)

-Wayne

Originally Posted by Wayne 962 (Post 11183090)

Potential solutions? Well, I have none, but I have maybe a first step. I can perhaps do the following, let's start out with the bad ideas:

- I can test the line to see if it leaks. The line looks like crap, and it's really a bad idea to leave it in there. But the thought did cross my mind for a brief moment. I thought that maybe this fuel hose was some metal hose that was just rubber coated, but it's not. This is a bad idea.

- I thought about some how running a new line from somewhere more accessible, but then I would have to plug the old line (which is old and seems damaged), so that defeats the whole purpose too.

- I could simply not use one tank if one line is leaking and the other is fine. That is also a poor plan.


These ideas are better:

- Cut / disconnect the fuel hose on each side and then thread some pipe cleaner in there to see if I can feel where the line goes. Perhaps I can make it stick out into the tank so that i can confirm the location of the outlet hole. This would be done prior to poking any holes in the chassis.

- I can poke an exploratory hole in the fender well. Somewhere in this area:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1610702325.JPG


I think that this is going to have to be the best option, and I will have to make a *ton* of measurements (like a surveyor) in order to figure out exactly where my hole should be drilled. It's too bad I don't have an ultrasound machine or some type of x-ray machine that could see through wood. I do have a "stud finder" for walls, but I don't see how that could possible be useful. I also have a stud finder magnet that is ultra powerful and can find metal through walls - maybe I will grab that from work and try that out - there might be a hose clamp that is right on the other side of the wood that the magnet will hang on to.

I suppose that if I make an "access panel" to get to the bottom of the tank, I can then reinforce it with steel. My big concern is cutting a hole in the wood chassis and weakening it a bit.

- I can try to cut the fuel line very close to where it enters the "bulkhead", then shove it in there and then stick my camera in there to see if I can see anything. This would screw me in case I needed to somehow thread that line back again, but I don't really see that happening.

I'm so glad that the tanks have already been replaced. At least we don't have to cut the entire car apart. I will send this post to the son of the guy who replaced these tanks - he's like 87 or so years old now, and may or may not remember this from 40 years ago. That's like me remembering what I got for Christmas when I was 8 - probably not going to happen. I'll also send this to the guys in the UK for advice.

Okay, I'm ready for some help and advice on this - I'm stuck. Thanks in advance!!!

-Wayne

Originally Posted by javadog (Post 11184888)

There is a way to use some basic carpentry tools and a little measuring and layout work to determine a point directly below the outlet that would be a good starting point for an investigative access hole to be drilled. It would take an hour for me to type it all but if you want to try it, let me know and I'll work on it.

Originally Posted by Leprcon311 (Post 11184934)

First time forum post.
Was sent here by fellow gear-head driving buddy, because of my boat repair and fiberglassing experience.
First: Really cool project, love the look and the history behind it.
Second: Boatbuilding 101.
Polyester resin (without a doubt), chopped strand mat, urethane foam and wood.
So the exploratory surgery tool here is a 1.25 inch hole saw, but one that has grinding grit on it, not teeth.
This makes small enough holes for visibility, that can then be easily re-glassed back over, and the circles are small enough (and strategically placed) so the don’t effect structural integrity.

OK, I hate this part because it feels so immodest.
I have been doing fiberglass repairs as a tinkering hobby for 15-20 years.
I work as a Manufacturing Engineer for a major aerospace company, specializing in Composite fab and repair.
I have taught a Composite fab shop class at a local SoCal junior college (wet layup and prepress) since 2001, so have lots of sources and connections.

I would love to come by (safety protocols of course) and take a look and help on a volunteer basis, cause this is such a cool and unusual project. (I cut my teeth on aircooled VW’s but have moved on to Datsun roadster canyon carver)
When I learn how to Private Message I will send along contact info. I commute daily from Seal Beach to El Segundo, so am around in the area regularly.
Sorry for the long post.
Fergus O

Originally Posted by javadog (Post 11185151)

He doesn’t need a laser level, he just needs a framing square, a tape measure, a plumb bob, some string and a sharpie.