Based on what you’ve discovered so far, I’d suggest that likely the left side is thin fiberglass and the right side is thick fiberglass...

I'm not sure what a "tank cutter" is - is that a fancy word for "hole saw"? Dunno. But the sheet of fiberglass appears to be about 1/8" or so thick. Really thin stuff. This means it's certainly not structural...

-Wayne

Drill the hole:

<iframe width="640" height="360" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/ZXsQAXx_ao0" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>


SmileWavy

Not going to stop there! I'll drill through the car and the tank too!!!

-Wayne

lol

Okay. After watching that video I’m ready!

Wayne

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1611020310.jpg

Considering it's a timber frame car, you may want to seek advice here:

https://www.lumberjocks.com/forums

Okay, inspired by Shia Labeouf, I simply measured and cut using the hole saw. Long story short - this was the *only* viable solution after I saw what was in there. I would not have been able to get to it from below. I would not have been able to pull new lines, and there was no way to get to any hose clamps without drilling out a large access hole through the fiberglass and wood. I don't like it, but I had no choice (unless going with the last option which was to bypass the tank altogether and install a new one in the trunk - a very undesirable option).

In the end:

- The hose clamps and fuel hose were completely encased in foam.

- The hose inside the foam was completely disintegrated and never would have held fuel - it was leaking already.

- This way will leave access to the gas tanks and the lines for replacement in the future. This car will probably be around after I'm long gone, and someone else will probably want to renew these lines - now they will have a way.

I took 35 photos along the way, here they are:



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1611032999.jpg
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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1611033167.jpg
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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1611033167.jpg

Thanks for your help and suggestions. Getting everyone together really gave me the confidence that I was on the right track!

-Wayne

It will most likely be fine but 1/8 glass with a wood core is very strong, looks like the inside is also glass? So it could still be structural, most boat decks and hulls can be less than 1/8 layers of glass with balsa core or foam.

Need to make sure the wood core is sealed from water, if it will see any, was it wet at all? Was the foam damp? With boats a common problem is the wood rotting out and turning to mush, the fiberglass needs the separation for its strength.

Also put duct tape or something to cover the glass before getting some stuck in your arm.

Nice aim!

Could you make a gasket and then put a metal bar on the back to screw the plug back on for future access just like the 911 torsion bar cover?

To plug that hole after all rework is complete I would make an aluminum plate maybe 6" x 6" and screw it on . I would take the plug cutout from the hole saw and make a new plug the correct diameter to snugly fit the hole . Use adhesive to glue new plug to new access plate . Between the new plug going IN the hole and the access plate going OVER the hole it should be enough of a seal .

It will look clean/professional and provide easy access in the future if needed . Let's face it I doubt this car is going to see a lot of miles driven in rain ......... may not see many miles in the dry 😁 . Have enjoyed following along thanks for sharing .

I would probably be a bumpkin for saying this but given the headache of accessing an important part of the car, I'd make an aluminum access hatch that screws down flush over the area inside a frame.

Yeah, I’d probably install something like a blind cover for a dry break coupling on a fuel tank.

If you cut back the wood between the glass with a T slot cutter in a drill and them fill that area in with fiberglass, that will seal the wood core from water. Then you could just use a flush plug like a test tite flush mechanical cleanout plug. Do you have a metal lathe? Pretty easy to make a nice plug.

Yup, all good suggestions. I will probably make an aluminum square panel that will use the existing plug on the right (I'll make a new one for the left), and then I'll get some type of seal that will seal it all up effectively. That, fortunately, is the easy part!

-Wayne

Is this part of the next book?

101 projects for the Probe 16?