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Band.
 
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Can you help me identify this capacitor?

Hello.

I'm trying to find a value for this capacitor (or is it a varistor?) and I'm having a hard time.
Maybe one of you does all the time. Can you help?
Thanks

07
K150
13 34



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Last edited by Gogar; 04-02-2021 at 04:25 PM..
Old 04-02-2021, 04:21 PM
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Navin Johnson
 
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Looks like 10% tolerance 150 picofarad capacitor
..


However labeling doesn't follow standard practice

What is it in?
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Old 04-02-2021, 04:40 PM
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It's in a superauto coffe machine.

I feel like it is an EPCOS 7 series varistor (mostly because of the RV on the board) but I'm still having trouble with the value.

Thanks!
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Old 04-02-2021, 04:42 PM
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Damn, I was hoping it was I that rare mid '70s Mesa-Boogie I sold years ago I'm trying to track down..
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Old 04-02-2021, 04:55 PM
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But then again they wouldn't have all those thingies
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Old 04-02-2021, 05:13 PM
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Crap! I thought for a second you scored a Dumble amplifier.
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Old 04-02-2021, 06:17 PM
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Any of you guys ever check out Mr Carlson's lab? Bet that guy would know!
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Old 04-02-2021, 07:32 PM
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I love Mr Carlsons lab!!
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Old 04-02-2021, 09:16 PM
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Those don't often go bad...and when they do, you can see the damage. Does it read as a short (low resistance)?
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Old 04-02-2021, 09:37 PM
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I agree with fint. That's usually a smoke-emitting failure.

What's the problem?
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Old 04-03-2021, 05:55 AM
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Yes, it was releasing the magic smoke. But the machine is Italian - not British - so you can understand my confusion.

My next task is to find out if it smoked because something in front of it failed, or if it just failed on its own.

I just have a pipe dream that I can fix this for $5 instead of getting a new board for $100. I want to try for a minute before I give up.

Thanks!
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Old 04-03-2021, 07:15 AM
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Varistor would typically go across the mains, and 'pop' because of a voltage spike, taking out the fuse(pic above).

Circuit should work with varistor removed(removing protection), and you should be able to measure voltage across it.


What are the symptoms? Nothing at all? Popping a fuse?
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Last edited by dad911; 04-03-2021 at 02:15 PM..
Old 04-03-2021, 02:06 PM
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The symptoms are: the machine does not work and, when plugged in this varistor got hot and crispy.

So bare minimum I need to replace it and I have a pipe dream that I'll replace it and the machine will work.

Of course the likely outcome is that the new varistor will become black and crispy as well.

Worst case is I can buy a new board for $100 but if I can roll the dice for $5 I'm interested.

The board has no signs of anything getting hot anywhere except for this guy.
There is a transistor next to it that has many common traces so I went ahead and ordered a fresh one of those for $3.


I got the machine for free disassembled in a garbage bag so it's mostly just passing the time for fun. If I can get it running it'll be worth couple hundred bucks.
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Last edited by Gogar; 04-03-2021 at 03:50 PM..
Old 04-03-2021, 03:46 PM
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Then cut out/remove the varistor and try it. Do not jumper the leads, just remove it from the circuit. Seriously.

I don't see a transistor in the pics. The FL408 looks like a bridge rectifier, changes AC to DC. You should be able to measure an AC voltage across the two ~~ (center) terminals, and DC out between the + and - terminals.

I suspect the varistor was to protect rectifier, and sacrificed itself in a heroic battle with a voltage surge.
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Last edited by dad911; 04-03-2021 at 04:11 PM..
Old 04-03-2021, 04:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dad911 View Post
Then cut out/remove the varistor and try it. Do not jumper the leads, just remove it from the circuit. Seriously.

I don't see a transistor in the pics. The FL408 looks like a bridge rectifier, changes AC to DC. You should be able to measure an AC voltage across the two ~~ (center) terminals, and DC out between the + and - terminals.

I suspect the varistor was to protect rectifier, and sacrificed itself in a heroic battle with a voltage surge.
Thanks, Dad. The picture is only for reference, and shows an identical varistor that's nearby. the fried one is the same spec but the markings didn't photo well.

It's already out and I'm ready for the new one.
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Old 04-03-2021, 06:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by herr_oberst View Post
Any of you guys ever check out Mr Carlson's lab? Bet that guy would know!
i do. he’s great
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Old 04-03-2021, 06:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gogar View Post
Thanks, Dad. The picture is only for reference, and shows an identical varistor that's nearby. the fried one is the same spec but the markings didn't photo well.

It's already out and I'm ready for the new one.
Can you post a pic of that? Maybe I can follow the traces.
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Old 04-03-2021, 06:31 PM
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Band.
 
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Thanks everyone for your help!

I received this Saeco Intuita off FB marketplace for $20 completely disassembled in a garbage bag. The previous owner had taken it apart to try and fix it but got frustrated and gave up, after breaking almost every single mounting tab off the plastic case. (not hard to do.) He smelled the magic smoke smell and figured he would have to find the complete (NLA) PCB for about $100.

I narrowed the magic smoke smell to the varistor you guys identified and $0.53 I'm pullin rippin shots of espresso through this little guy! Great stroke of luck finding something so cheap and easy, but a win is a win!

Through this I have learned/confirmed that ALL the Gaggia/Saeco/Phillips machines from about 2010 through right now use a huge amount of identical parts. In addition the flowmeter/vibration pump/solenoid/boilers are identical to the parts used in most Juras. Fun stuff.

thanks again


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Last edited by Gogar; 04-07-2021 at 07:01 PM..
Old 04-07-2021, 06:56 PM
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