Building Permit Dilemma

[1990C4S]

I posted a few weeks ago about a very 'minor' height issue with a proposed new deck roof I want to build.

Suffice to say, things have become a lot more complicated. I have a rather large (but well built) existing deck on my house, I was unaware that it was 'built by the previous occupant' without a permit.

So now I have a non-permitted deck, that I need a permit to modify.

I think my only option here is to make a proper drawing of the deck as constructed, add in my changes, come clean with the city, and apply for a permit.

The risk is that the city might not approve the existing design, but I see that as leading to some modifications, not a tear-down. I am going to be selling the house in a few years, I don't want this issue cropping up at the time of the sale.

The only alternative is dropping the idea of the covered deck, doing something 'seasonal' (like a big awning) that does not need a permit. Or doing nothing. Neither of which interests me.

FML. I feel like I've opened a big can of worms here, on the other hand the 'ask for forgiveness permit' must be an every day occurrence, maybe better to get it pushed through during COVID with minimal site visits.

[URY914]

Take some pictures and go down to talk to the building official. Come clean with them on what you got and want you want to do. They will respect that.

[1990C4S]

Our city hall is closed, for COVID. I can have a phone call though, and email pics.

I need to collect some data, to show it complies with zoning requirements, then move on to structural.

[Tobra]

Originally Posted by URY914

Take some pictures and go down to talk to the building official. Come clean with them on what you got and want you want to do. They will respect that.

Not if he lives in California.

[wdfifteen]

Originally Posted by 1990C4S

The risk is that the city might not approve the existing design, but I see that as leading to some modifications, not a tear-down. I am going to be selling the house in a few years, I don't want this issue cropping up at the time of the sale.

Probably wise to get it cleared up now. However, be prepared to open a can of worms - the kind that jump out of the can and hit you in the face.
I planned to put a sun room on a deck attached to my house. The builder had an engineer come out and "certify" that the structure met the requirements by simply looking at it. I thought we were home free. The building inspector said, "How do you know what kind of footers are under it? How is it attached to the house? Permit denied."
Turned out the footers were floating a foot under the soil level and it wasn't attached to the house. We basically had to tear the deck out, put in footers, and start over.

[recycled sixtie]

About five years ago we had a deck built. The builder did everything except we never got a final inspection done by the city. The city inspector comes out and tells me what is wrong. I fixed it myself and got a final inspection approved.

Yes I believe come clean with the authorities and do what they recommend. That way you won't have the hassle when selling.

[1990C4S]

The good side of this is I have a cheap draftsman on retainer for some other work.

This 'small' change to our deck has certainly bitten me in the a$$.

That and the price of lumber right now.

[1990C4S]

Originally Posted by wdfifteen

Turned out the footers were floating a foot under the soil level and it wasn't attached to the house. We basically had to tear the deck out, put in footers, and start over.

This my concern, who knows if the posts are dug down 12" or 36"...replacing them would be a bastard...but then again, I rebuilt a 2.7 engine once. I got this.

[LWJ]

The correct answer depends on the inspector. Some will F you. Some will work with you. I’ve had both.

[john70t]

Take a pick and push it into the wood below ground.
It might go right in..
Wood+Ground= Rot

You can brace each corner on both sides, cut the stantion square and treat the underside, dig out the ground part and replace with concrete sonotube centered under that (beveling the sides to shed water). The post then will sit on a Simpson cup 6-8"(?) above ground and should be good for a long time.

[1990C4S]

^^^ I do not have rot, the posts are installed to code as far as I can see.

It's a question of how far down they bothered to dig for the sono-tube. Might be 12", might be 48".

[javadog]

Correspond with them by email. Just don’t give your true name, nor your physical address. Figure out where you stand before committing to going down a particular road.

[Zeke]

Originally Posted by 1990C4S

^^^ I do not have rot, the posts are installed to code as far as I can see.

It's a question of how far down they bothered to dig for the sono-tube. Might be 12", might be 48".

Get a pieces of rebar and drive them at an angle toward the pier. Keep going lower until the last bar keeps going. Use math. Document. Cut them off flush and leave them.

BTW, some light weight power demo hammers fit over the end of rebar perfectly. I drive 8' ground rods with a bigger one and it takes about a minute.

[1990C4S]

Those are both good suggestions, thank you.

[dad911]

Price your materials and check availability. You may decide to put this project off. Supply and prices are beyond crazy.

[1990C4S]

Yea, I'm looking into that. But regardless, I still need to resolve all these 'issues'.

What was a $1,500-$2k project is now closer to $4k....but I'm not confident prices are going to drop next year.

[dad911]

Neither am I. You may not be able to buy some materials at any cost in the short term...... I'm seeing local runs on materials, and some yards are only bringing in product to fill firm orders.

[rusnak]

Originally Posted by 1990C4S

Our city hall is closed, for COVID. I can have a phone call though, and email pics.

I need to collect some data, to show it complies with zoning requirements, then move on to structural.

[wdfifteen]

Originally Posted by 1990C4S

^^^ I do not have rot, the posts are installed to code as far as I can see.

It's a question of how far down they bothered to dig for the sono-tube. Might be 12", might be 48".

My county required a licensed PE to sign off on the adequacy of the foundation. Even then, after the PE certified the piers they didn’t buy it and wanted proof.

[1990C4S]

I'm a PE, but the wrong discipline, in the old days a PE's stamp was a stamp, end of story. Now an electrical engineer can't stamp anything mechanical.