Another Construction Question: 220v Wiring

[Tidybuoy]

I hear what everyone is saying and I will submit a photo of the codes on the wires (tonight, after my day job).

Yes, I am using what I have laying around however, it is the wire that was recommended by my electrician when installing 220v for my dryer. I purchased a 100' spool which was about $300 and I am using the remaining for my stove/oven. Regardless, I will report back on the exact specifications. The wire is not Romex, I merely used romex as an example as this is very thick individual strands that are encased in a black wrap which states 600v plus a bunch of other stuff.

My primary question was about the conduit as I thought that would be the safest until our plant engineer told me he didn't think I should be doing that. However, on all of my projects, I want to follow the proper code. I have a friend that is a contractor that will be coming over this weekend to review my work.

[look 171]

Originally Posted by Tidybuoy

I hear what everyone is saying and I will submit a photo of the codes on the wires (tonight, after my day job).

Yes, I am using what I have laying around however, it is the wire that was recommended by my electrician when installing 220v for my dryer. I purchased a 150' spool which was about $300 and I am using the remaining for my stove/oven. Regardless, I will report back on the exact specifications. The wire is not Romex, I merely used romex as an example as this is very thick individual strands that are encased in a black wrap which states 600v plus a bunch of other stuff.

My primary question was about the conduit as I thought that would be the safest until our plant engineer told me he didn't think I should be doing that. However, on all of my projects, I want to follow the proper code. I have a friend that is a contractor that will be coming over this weekend to review my work.

Romex will sweat inside conduit.

[carambola]

You appear to to have 6/3 romex inserted into fmc.
The potential for heat generation is minimal.
Two 180* phases with a neutral and a ground will offset and cancel. It's not like you are running a single conductor in an enclosed space.
You went over and above sleeving in the fmc, worried about potential damage from rodents and whatnot, but i hope you at least put a bushing on both ends of the conduit.

[Tidybuoy]

Originally Posted by carambola

i hope you at least put a bushing on both ends of the conduit.

On the fuse box end, there is a solid 1" heavy conduit that comes out of the circuit breaker box downwards and then curves into the foundation (about 5' total) of the house and ends. This is something that must stay as it is cemented into the house.

After that, my flexible conduit is connected via a threaded connection to the permanent fuse box pipe.

The flexible conduit is then routed to it's final destination and strapped to the bottom of the 4x6 floor joists under the house. The flexible conduit is then routed up and thru the wall to it's final destination.

I will take photos of the wiring tonight to help determine if it needs to be inside conduit or not. We'll go from there. My only regret is that I'm gonna have to crawl under the house again - I too old for this S#!T

[carambola]

If you do it right, it's an ab workout.

[Superman]

You'd think that over-designing the installation would get you a pat on the back. Using the proper non-conduit cable, and then protecting it in conduit. Makes sense, but the inspector may very possibly fail it. I knew of one installation which the inspectors failed, causing the builder to start over. It was "direct burial" cable, perfectly suited for just burying (at the proper depth). Builder pulled it through conduit for extra protection. Fail.

Who knew? Electrical inspectors are persnickety.

[john70t]

Small tangent:
"Not basement but a crawl space"

What kind of ventilation is going through the foundation there?
Critters will get in and make a home i.e. poop if they can.

Is the underside of the crawl space going to be vapor-barrier sealed from ground or below the joists?
That space where the wire runs through might be considered 'exterior' to code and might require different specs.
IDK.

As a layman, my first thought is a sealed full floor wrap up to the rim/floor joists to prevent ground radon/moisture/fumes from getting into the house.

(sorry for tangent just some random thoughts)

[looneybin]

Yep, just run the bundled wire exposed stapled to the underside of the joists,
Enclosing it in conduit could cause condensation and is not code approved.
Only single strand wire is allowed in conduit

[1990C4S]

Originally Posted by carambola

You appear to to have 6/3 romex inserted into fmc.
The potential for heat generation is minimal.
Two 180* phases with a neutral and a ground will offset and cancel. It's not like you are running a single conductor in an enclosed space.
You went over and above sleeving in the fmc, worried about potential damage from rodents and whatnot, but i hope you at least put a bushing on both ends of the conduit.

He already said it's not Romex, I am guessing SOW now.

We aren't debating 'safe' any more, it's to code, or not to code. And my guess is it's not.

[wdfifteen]

Originally Posted by Tidybuoy

The wire is not Romex, I merely used romex as an example as this is very thick individual strands that are encased in a black wrap which states 600v plus a bunch of other stuff.

The "other stuff" should include the wire gauge, which is VERY important.
Look at the oven and see how many amps it draws. I'm sure some of the experts here can take that information and calculate what gauge you need for that length of run.
For a crawl space I would critter-proof the system with new individual wires run through your conduit.

[Tidybuoy]

Update:

The code on the wiring is as follows:
Romex (R) Simpull (7M) AWG 6 CU7 CDR With AC 10 Ground Type NM-B 600 Volts

I was incorrect on my previous comments on Romex. My thinking was that this wire is not like common household outlet wiring (i.e., Romex).

[1990C4S]

Since it's not exterior I believe you can run that direct.

Someone from CA should confirm it meets your code.

[look 171]

Yep. Can't be exposed to light. As long s its under the house and run in-wall, you will be fine. 6 gauge, that's a big puppy. How many amps does this oven draw?

[Rusty Heap]

6 awg is a 50 amp circuit

[Zeke]

Thinking that NM cable cannot be placed in conduit is one of the most perpetrated falsehoods in the electrical trade. In fact, under certain circumstances where damage is imminent, it is required.

However, the issue is conduit wire fill. I didn't look it up but 6/3 with ground in 1.5" conduit should meet wire fill requirements. (In fact, I did look it up, but not in the NEC. Says wire fill must not exceed 53%)

One thing against pulling NM, NMC and NMS cables in any conduit is the pull itself. I would pull the cable into the conduit outside while the conduit ls laid out straight and clamped. Of course I would have determined the needed length first and left a foot of extra cable out at each end for make up.

There are not many cables that cannot be in conduit unless it's buried (wet location). And NM (Romex) is definitely one of those. that can't be used in wet locations. For that you need individual wires rated THWN. In fact MHF (mobile home feeder used a lot for direct burial between buildings) MUST be in conduit once above ground. It is terminated in a panel located as close to the riser as possible and still meet location requirements. (That was just an example for dispelling the myth.)

[Zeke]

Note to the above: when determining wire fill one must measure the widest part of a wire bundle to calculate area by using a pi formula either by radius or diameter to determine the area in a circle form even if the cross section of the cable is not a circle. In the case of 12/2 Romex with ground, that's about 1/2" on the flat side so no way will 1/2" conduit be large enough. 3/4 does that job.

[carambola]

334.15 (C), you’re good