The name. It may be a slightly more focused model, but the difference sounds pretty small to me.

10hp, stiffer & lower suspension, 120# lighter (as long as you DON'T have AC, radio, PDK). It comes with some cool options.
Exactly, factory special with some cool options. I suspect you could do some mods to an S and get most of the way there. I'm not sure that 120# lighter is enough to feel much difference. I think I'd feel 300-400#, but I don't think I'd feel much difference with vs without the missus.

The R is worth getting just for the GT3 seats alone.

My cause of question is-
After owning the 911 and what was a huge renaissance back in the day (and maybe still) to do the 911 R replicas or tributes.
Will the Cayman R have the same romance?

No cayman R is best of breed 987 but improvements are pretty minor. Much of that weight savings dissappear if ypu option back in AC, skip the sport buckets which will make the car much more expensive if optioned with, and lion battery option. Cayman r is cool but a well optioned 987 with some suspension and weight savings mods is probably just a good for cheaper

Gt4 vs regular 981 or 718 is a much bigger step.

I don't think you can go wrong with an "R". Having said that, I'd take a manual 6-speed over PDK, at least in a Cayman. I'd do without all of the console buttons for bun warmers, Sport Chrono Plus, PASM, etc. PASM is awful. Maybe if someone invents better shock rates for the 3 axis accelerometer, that would change. Not so sure that a 718 is an upgrade over the 987.2, but that's just my own opinion.

I'd still go back to what I wrote earlier: Lower the 987.2, 6-speed manual, limited slip diff, GT-3 lower front control arms for negative camber at the front wheels, and upgraded springs and shocks such as what you find on the Ohlins Road and Track, or KW kits. All of this has been summarized here before. The Porsche traction control comes alive when you input 19" wheels vs. 18". Also you need to specify summer tires. If you do all of this, and add a short shifter from Numeric, then you'll have what is the modern equivalent to the old air cooled 911s but much, much better. Similar in agility and ability to break the rear end loose with throttle, but way better brakes and tons more torque. I truly believe these cars are woefully overlooked. Buy two of them if you can find good ones.

Agree with Rusnak. I must ask the following:


You buying this for resale?


(This would be my answer) Drive the piss out of it, throwing it around corners and sell it in 15 years to let someone play with it? By then I will be 71.


Say 200 lbs lighter for the R and the cost associated with it, is it that much more fun compared to an S?



I know about us old folks who likes to shake a stick while driving. I am a huge fan of PDK. My Cayman S is my first, and I am completely sold. If I didn't have other stick shift cars, I may not have gotten the PDK. That damn thing is blue tooth to my brain. It knows exactly which gear to put it in. Come to a right hang corner doing 50 mph. Slam on the brakes, turn the wheel and jam on the gas on your way of the corner. The damn thing is always in second the minute you hit that gas pedal.

Forget all the weight saving BS like we use to do to the air cool cars. Get the damn tune and add 30 hp to the car. Easier and much cheaper then pulling siht out and saving weight that way. Few thousands for the GT3 seats to save 50 lbs? Don't get me wrong, I love those ass pinchers but to get in and out of it daily? Will your wife like to get out of those damn things? For 90% of your driving, the sports seats or what ever they came with will do the trick. Sure there are moments that we all swish we had the ass pinchers to hold us up when we are pulling 1.5 G on the on ramp. Every time I go to the track w ith the Cayman, I wish I had those seats. Everyday I go and get out of that car on my hill, I thank goodness I do not have those GT3 seats. it takes a lot to get rid of 150 lbs. That's about 15-20 hp? Do the math on it.

I think you are over thinking it. Get a test drive on a S and I bet you will be really surprise on its performance. I have a 993TT and a modded 930 with 460 hp. They are both fast, but the Cayman feels just as fast under 120. 120, that's a lot of speed. It will out handle the both cars including my 1867lbs track focused / street car with 260hp screamer. Too bad you are across the country. If you are near, I loan you the Cayman for a few days and see for yourself.

Cayman's are a lot of car for the money.

^ My Macan S has PDK, and truth be told, it's faster than my Cayman S. Damn fun car, and fully loaded with evey gizmo that Porsche offered in 2016. I think I'll keep the Cayman until I'm literally too old to get in and out of it without a push from behind, Winnie the Pooh style.

All really good info here and I do appreciate it.
Unless an R Falls out of the sky I am set on the S.
I am thinking S with Chrono Sport.
But, buying used is always al little after the fact, for options. I just can't do a new 4-cylinder.

Chrono package is nice to have for the track. I question that too because most people aren't that serious about time plus, there are others there to track that for ya if you are a real track junky. I can't tell if everything tightens up a bit with the Chrono turned on. I have it on my car, searched day and night for it just for that tiny bit of performance. If I were to buy another again, I wouldn't care about having it. I think its complete useless for my application. I turned it on twice since I owned the car. Again, they are hard to find.

Tanx !
All good to know!

You gotta admit, the little clock timer is still really cool though.

Yeah, it looks cool, I agree. Other then that, I serves me no purpose. You have it in yours? I am a real man, so reading the hand book goes out the window. Press enough buttons will get it going. The thing is, I couldn't get it to stop the first time. When I did, It was off, stuck at some random number and it was not back at 12 o'clock. Drove me nuts for a bit until I finally figured it out. Did it for another time, and I couldn't feel the difference with it on or off. Normally, I drive with the Sports button on as soon as I start the car but the electronic nanny save my ass buttons are always on. Saved my bacon a couple times on the track when I entered the chicane way too hot. Still, I was carrying to much speed and spun me sideways more then 45*. If I had it off, I would have gone framing for sure. In an air cool car, I would have done enough to plowed the field to plant enough potato to make breakfast for all our Pelican brothers.

Afterburn,

These cars have so much grip that it builds so much confidence for the inexperience drivers allowing them to go so much faster. Go drive one and tell us what you think. Make sure to turn on the Sports button, no need for Sports Plus.

Hahaha!!! I neeeeevvverr turn off the traction nanny!! Once, I don't know what got into me, but I thought I'd test it in the rain. I spun the rear tires for a few hundred feet and I could feel the car working to stay in a straight line. I think that's when I really fell in love with the whole package.

Yeah, I have the sport chrono package. No, I really don't ever use it like it's supposed to. Sometimes I amuse myself by timing my commute (think Roy Schieder in "Blue Thunder"), but that's pretty much it. You can time your split halfway home or to some mile marker, and resume to total time elapsed.

I'm thinking about playing with the front tires, adding more sidewall. I've gone through two front rims already, and I think I've cornered the market on used 997 style rims. The next one is going to come new from Mama (Porsche A.G.) and will be $$$$. The limiting factor is what sizes will Michellin Sport Cup 2 tires allow.

Side point -What is everyone using for lifts for these?
They have jack points?
My 911 was EZ -just drive it up on the Scissor lift.
I think something a little more picky needs to be used ?

I've got sport-chrono. I checked the stopwatch feature once to see what it did. I haven't used it again, and I'm not sure why I would. I do use the sport button, but not all of the time. If you want the sport button, then you have to have sport chrono.
I have turned off the TC and PSM from time to time, but only rarely. Sport let's you play some when you want to without letting you write checks that you don't want to cash. Fortunately the cars have great grip and amazing handling.

Steve, I think they all have Sports and Sports Plus buttons on them but not all have Chrono or stop watch?

nope. The sport and sport plus buttons are part of the sport chrono option.
You can get it added by a dealer after the fact too.

https://www.porschefremont.com/what-is-the-porsche-sport-chrono-package/

News- I have not pulled the trigger yet...almost a couple of times
Now the Scary news-
Even the new generation (987.2) can have scored cylinders ! (according to my research)
This is from direct injection and too long intervals between OLF changes and using recommended oils rather than using the multi-grade one step higher.
You guys /gals research this, as I am not the end-all.
But afaik, the 0 - 40 stuff is contributing to problems and just a move up to the 5 / 40 slightly high in viscosity is making a big difference,
From all that is written and propagated the zero weight points oils listings come from fuel milage-based goals , and importance, rather than engine life TBO as a main concern.
This is from several sources over the last couple of weeks, sorry i am not listing the links.
I will go back and check.
I think even L&N engineering may have listed this too?
More scary- If one should get caught in this web of scored cylinders is the cost of the fix!
If we are mechanically inept A long block done by L&N is quoted by them as 35K a few days ago, i checked.
Engine cases with pistons if one has good cores, about 6K. ( this seems reasonable)
Then they say to budget a lot more for the extras -

Cut and paste from them below

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The long block engines from FSI are $35K+ and you have to have a good core engine as an exchange. These are built to their Stage 2 Track Performer series and are built up to 3.8L from a Cayman S 3.4L

The engine case machining processes with matching pistons and ring sets start at $5356.14 and go up from there.

https://lnengineering.com/products/watercooled-porsche-cylinders-sleeves-and-pistons/porsche-boxster-cayman-and-911-model-years-1997-2008/34-to-36-911-nickies-inc-99mm-fsr-je-piston-set-inc-rings-pins-clips.html

You will also need one of our engine assembly kits and headwork is dependent upon what work is needed to successfully fix the damages.

I would say with the tools needed and all parts and machine processes you will need to budget between $15K and $20K to correctly do it yourself.

Jud

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It has 4 jack points like most modern european cars.

I still do it with a single jack: I have a Fabspeed rear jack pad. I raise one side with the standard rear jack point in front of the rear wheel and place a jack stand under the front jack point. Then lower the jack and do the same on the other side. Then jack at the center rear jack point and put jack stands on either side rear jack point. A little time consuming but not too bad.

Is the $35K price above for a 3.8l motor conversion?