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Fleabit peanut monkey
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Quote:
Your thermo will open if it's 80F outside.
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1981 911SC Targa |
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This thread reminds me of a problem I had with an old Alfa Romeo. It had a hose that would bypass the radiator so water would circulate in the block to help warm it up faster. This hose had a spring loaded valve in it that would be opened when the thermostat was closed by the water pressure being pumped by the water pump. When the 'stat opened it would close, diverting the water to the radiator to be cooled. I got hold of another car, same model etc. and it didn't have that diverter valve in the bypass hose. Car ran hotter than normal, especially in the 120* temps out in Palm Springs where I bought it. Put a diverter valve in the system and it worked fine. That along with removing the defunct A/C condenser some idiot mechanic left sitting in front of the radiator when he removed the A/C system helped a lot.
I find it odd that your engine wouldn't circulate coolant in the block until the thermostat opened. I've also never run across an overflow tank that is part of the pressurized system either. Learnin' stuff every day here on PPOT. Wish I could help more.
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Scott '78 SC mit Sportomatic - Sold |
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Again, the initial reason this vehicle failed inspection was it was running cool. |
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The usual reason for running cool is a thermostat which is stuck open or is opening too soon. I have heard of new thermostats out of the box which were defective in this fashion. The way to test is to immerse the thermostat in water with a thermometer and increase the temperature until the unit opens.
On the other hand, in my experience big temperature differences between the upper and lower hoses can indicate an air bubble at the water pump. Where is the highest point in the cooling system? Can air be removed at that point? Best Les |
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Fleabit peanut monkey
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You did drive it 25 miles. You can't do that with a non-functioning water pump or thermostat.
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Fleabit peanut monkey
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Found the radiator cap is not a traditional pressure cap. You need to do the pressure test at the plastic tank. I am almost certain you need a traditional radiator cap on the plastic reservoir. That could be your leak?
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1981 911SC Targa Last edited by Bob Kontak; 11-27-2021 at 05:27 AM.. |
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Me thinks you need to find the source of the escaping coolant . This will be your huckleberry .
You know your system does not hold pressure, you also know that you are loosing coolant somewhere , you have stated that you have seen it after each no heat event . Clean it up , fill it then be patient and let it run till you can locate where it is coming out . Really sounds like something is up with your expansion tank . It would be the weakest link
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The whole set up above is only $62.00 from Parts Geek so I think I am just going to get it. If for no other reason to rule it out. |
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I did do a pressure test at the tank. First with the pressure tool. It held pressure. Then yesterday when I took everything apart I tested the parts independantly. Tank, each hose. |
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I was thinking that as well. But looking for reinfrcement from the gang. In actuality I went 50 miles. 25 on direction 25 back. But I stopped in the middle and checked the system. Then it sat about an hour before I returned.
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Going back to your original post, how far had you driven the car before going to get it inspected?
Did you consider it to be up to temperature when it was inspected?
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Scott '78 SC mit Sportomatic - Sold |
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So per my post above I order a new expansion tank including the hoses earlier today. I needed coolant so went to my nearby Advance. While there I decide for the hell of it to get another new radiator cap (16lb) and then decide to get a new cap for the expansion tank. When the counter guy enters the information for a cap for the expansion tank, reservior, overflow tank. Various searchs nothing matches. So he goe back to the radiator caps. The list has three cap One 16lb with a relief handle I already have that one. A flat cap no indication of lbs. and lastly the cap I bought which looks like a standrad 16lb cap. At this time the counter guy notices on the screen the 16lb. caps indicate Reservior caps and the flat cap says radiator. Now I am thinking the caps are backwards. I buy both caps install them, start the vehicle and I get slight pressure in the hoses within a few minutes. Not a lot but some resistance. I top off the radiator and drive back to the little hill at the beach entrance where I burp the system. No wetness at all around the expansion tank. Some condenstion behind the radiator cap on the shroud. Still mild pressure on the hoses. I opened the cap the radiator is full. I replace the radiator cap and squeezed the upper hose, I can hear air escaping around the cap. This would indicate the moisture on the shroud. I am now starting to conclude the new radiator is defective. Last edited by drcoastline; 11-27-2021 at 12:26 PM.. |
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Fleabit peanut monkey
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Fleabit peanut monkey
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Quote:
Pic is of a traditional radiator cap. Cap on radiator must be just a sealing cap. No relief function.
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Can you take a picture of the radiator neck for us?
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Yes, the radiator has a regular cap, the tank has a relief cap. I should say now they do, they were reversed.
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This is the radiator I removed from the vehicle.
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