Cable/Internet TV Connection Questions

[stomachmonkey]

Originally Posted by hcoles

While I work on the new diagram.... how would I test the speed of the coax outlet where I might be planning to hook all this stuff up?

You don't need to unless the home has an old questionable coax network.

Try to keep the number of splits on that leg to 1 or as low as you can.

[stomachmonkey]

Originally Posted by Gogar

You can then unhook and go wifi again and check the wifi speed. It's interesting to note the difference

Because WIFI does not have dedicated backhaul like wired ethernet does. It's always slower than wired.

Well, modern mesh networks will have it. If the gear is labeled Tri Band it has backhaul which is a 3rd channel only accessible to the access points that make up the mesh. But if the access points are too far from each other you'll still not see gigabit.

TCP is kinda like an old time bucket fire brigade. Imagine a line of guys passing buckets (packets) towards a fire and a separate line of guys passing empty buckets back. The return line is backhaul.

Now imagine if it were only one line and they have to pass a bucket forward, empty it then the same line has to pass it back before the next full bucket can move forward.

Now add in that WIFI works at the speed of the slowest connected device and there is some old B or G device attached, like that old iPod or tablet you gave to the kids, everything faster gets stuck behind it like a Ferrari on a one lane country road who just got cock blocked by farmer Joes hay wagon.

That's WIFI which is why you always always always want to hardwire anything you can.

[stomachmonkey]

Originally Posted by hcoles

......However, moving the Comcast gateway to the TV makes it maybe worse wifi strength at the other end of the house where my wife's laptop and printer are....

If there is a live coax connection at your wifes laptop /printer area get a two pack of MoCA bridges and a small 5 port hub.

Drop the MoCA bridge and run ethernet from it into the hub then wire up both the laptop and the printer to the hub.

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-5-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Unmanaged/dp/B07S98YLHM/ref=sr_1_3?crid=GLL1TILVCZC6&keywords=5+port+hub&qid=1639975311&sprefix=5+port+hub%2Caps%2C111&sr=8-3

[hbueno]

In general, this should all work perfectly using wireless. First thing I'd do is ditch the Comcast router and get your own. Depending on the size of the house, wall types, and desired coversge area, the option is a regular dual band router or a mesh system like an Asus CT8. My garage is 100 feet from the house and I still get usable signal there.

Use the free Wifi Analyzer app on a smartphone to check signal strength and channel usage.

Check for interference from neighbor's wifi. You may need to choose alternate 2.4GHz channels if there is.

[hcoles]

Many thanks Gogar... Here is my interpretation of what you are suggesting with the goal to connect the Roku and TV with a hard wire and not use Wifi at all. Is this correct?
I need to buy:
- ScreenBeam module for one hook up. It looks like the usual thing is to use two. But I need just one side. Not sure which ScreenBeam to order, there are different models that seem to do the same thing. Please confirm.
- Ethernet switch to get two ethernet connections one for the TV and one for Roku
- buy a Roku with RJ45 input
- a simple coax splitter

Please add any comments or ideas. Thanks.

[hcoles]

Originally Posted by hbueno

In general, this should all work perfectly using wireless. First thing I'd do is ditch the Comcast router and get your own. Depending on the size of the house, wall types, and desired coversge area, the option is a regular dual band router or a mesh system like an Asus CT8. My garage is 100 feet from the house and I still get usable signal there.

Use the free Wifi Analyzer app on a smartphone to check signal strength and channel usage.

Check for interference from neighbor's wifi. You may need to choose alternate 2.4GHz channels if there is.

I agree. I did this previously and when I had an issue I had nobody to diagnose the issue over the phone or come to the house. I went back to the Comcast black tall box with one light. Side note: Comcast said they would give me a faster gateway for free (the white tower). I did that and had issues with that related to it handling 2.4 and 5GHz. The tech. said they may not have it quite right and I want back to the black tower. I have that now. The speed seems good enough.

[hcoles]

Also thanks to Stomachmonkey. Is my latest diagram with the ScreenBeam okay?

[Gogar]

I don't think that diagram is quite right.

again I suggest you just install Netflix, prime, and Hulu on the roku as well and ditch the internet switch and Ethernet to your (basically ancient 1st gen) clunky smart tv.

So, cable from the box and everything else from roku. Save yourself a remote and some annoying clicks every day.

[stomachmonkey]

Originally Posted by hcoles

Many thanks Gogar... Here is my interpretation of what you are suggesting with the goal to connect the Roku and TV with a hard wire and not use Wifi at all. Is this correct?
I need to buy:
- ScreenBeam module for one hook up. It looks like the usual thing is to use two. But I need just one side. Not sure which ScreenBeam to order, there are different models that seem to do the same thing. Please confirm.
- Ethernet switch to get two ethernet connections one for the TV and one for Roku
- buy a Roku with RJ45 input
- a simple coax splitter

Please add any comments or ideas. Thanks.

There is something missing.

Residential broadband equipment generally comes in two flavors.

A single combo modem / router or separate modem and router.

Look at your router, if it has coax in and out it's a combo unit and you want to split the output.

If it only has coax in then there is a separate modem somewhere that is feeding the router and you want to split on the output (house) side of that modem.


EDIT. If you plan on using the ROKU you don't really need to feed ethernet to the TV, you can get Netflix, HBO, HULU etc... on the ROKU.

[red-beard]

On most Cable systems, you have an app in the setup screens to check signal quality.

You said you have ~150 down and ~43 up. That does not sound right, unless you are checking it with a WiFi connection. My cable is 1000 down and 40 up. I get about 920 down and 45 up. But that is checking it with a wired connection.

Your cable modem can also be holding you back. Some of the older cable modems, especially the older ones supplied by the cable company, are only capable of about 300 down.

[hcoles]

Originally Posted by Gogar

I don't think that diagram is quite right.

again I suggest you just install Netflix, prime, and Hulu on the roku as well and ditch the internet switch and Ethernet to your (basically ancient 1st gen) clunky smart tv.

So, cable from the box and everything else from roku. Save yourself a remote and some annoying clicks every day.

That's a good idea. Do I still need to install the ScreenBeam? In the ScreenBeam questions they talk about the modem needing to be bonded or something like that.

[hcoles]

Originally Posted by stomachmonkey

There is something missing.

Residential broadband equipment generally comes in two flavors.

A single combo modem / router or separate modem and router.

Look at your router, if it has coax in and out it's a combo unit and you want to split the output.

If it only has coax in then there is a separate modem somewhere that is feeding the router and you want to split on the output (house) side of that modem.


EDIT. If you plan on using the ROKU you don't really need to feed ethernet to the TV, you can get Netflix, HBO, HULU etc... on the ROKU.

The modem/router is Comcast. All in one box (modem/router). There is no coax output.

[stomachmonkey]

Originally Posted by red-beard

Your cable modem can also be holding you back. Some of the older cable modems, especially the older ones supplied by the cable company, are only capable of about 300 down.

Correct but if you've bought a plan with higher speeds they should have sent a new modem.

Mind you what they should do and what they actually do is not always the same thing.

[hcoles]

Originally Posted by red-beard

On most Cable systems, you have an app in the setup screens to check signal quality.

You said you have ~150 down and ~43 up. That does not sound right, unless you are checking it with a WiFi connection. My cable is 1000 down and 40 up. I get about 920 down and 45 up. But that is checking it with a wired connection.

Your cable modem can also be holding you back. Some of the older cable modems, especially the older ones supplied by the cable company, are only capable of about 300 down.

I was checking it with Wifi.

[hcoles]

It seems using MoCA and Xfinity is a known situation. I might need a different Xfinity modem/router that is MoCA enabled or capable.

https://robotpoweredhome.com/moca-xfinity/

[hcoles]

There is more about using MoCA and Xfinity here.
https://us.hitrontech.com/learn/can-i-use-a-moca-adapter-with-xfinity-or-spectrum-internet/

[Paul T]

Originally Posted by hcoles

I was checking it with Wifi.

In my experience, I have found the WiFi through the Comcast boxes to be horrible. I ditched my Xfinity box and replaced with a third party modem and a couple of wireless access points, and it's much, much better.

[hcoles]

I think one thing I can do is get "all" (Netflix, Plex, Amazon, HBO Max, maybe Youtube TV) my streaming apps. coming via my current Roku wireless module. I'm assuming the wifi in the Roku is better than the wifi in my very old "Smart" TV. This gets me closer to cutting the cable TV cord I think.

[Paul T]

Originally Posted by hcoles

I think one thing I can do is get "all" (Netflix, Plex, Amazon, HBO Max, maybe Youtube TV) my streaming apps. coming via my current Roku wireless module. I'm assuming the wifi in the Roku is better than the wifi in my very old "Smart" TV. This gets me closer to cutting the cable TV cord I think.

That sounds like a solid plan. I have my Roku hard wired to ethernet so I can't speak to the WiFi capabilities, but I would assume pretty good.

[hbueno]

Originally Posted by Paul T

In my experience, I have found the WiFi through the Comcast boxes to be horrible. I ditched my Xfinity box and replaced with a third party modem and a couple of wireless access points, and it's much, much better.

Agreed. I feel the solutions being discussed here are overly complex. Comcast probably makes you jump through hoops, but you should be able to use your own router and all they provide is the cable modem. Unless the house is huge or the walls are blocking signal, pure wireless should work.