Recharging a fridge.

[GH85Carrera]

Our fridge is was built on 04/09/1998, so a few weeks shy of 24 years ago. It is not cooling very well and I suspect the charge of 134a is low.

I looked on YouTube and wow is there a lot of BAD videos there that either skip steps, or just show bad information and process.

It did help me determine which line is the low and what is the high. The first video show him put on a bullet valve AKA a saddle tap. Then he proceeded to add "Freon" and a line full of air and moisture to the system. He did not purge the line or pull a vacuum.

Most all the videos call the 134a refrigerant "Freon", which is not a horrible gaff, but not accurate.

So I am about to embark on installing a saddle tap, and adding a few ounces of R134a.

I will hook up my old set of manifold gauges so I can connect my vacuum pump and then add a little R134a at a time until it is up to a few psi on the low side. I have to resist the urge to add a second tap to the high side so I can see the real pressures. If it has lasted 24 years, I don't want to add any leak sources that are not necessary.

I want my beer to be cold, so I gotta do it.

[Scott Douglas]

When we bought our current fridge, I forget how many years ago, it crapped out within two days of being installed/delivered. They have a sealed system so not like a car where you can easily connect etc.
Tech came out and did exactly as you described. I was upset that our system was no longer 'sealed' at the factory but he assured me it would work just fine.
So far so good. Knock on wood. It probably is as old as yours is Glen, if not older. They don't make them like they used to.

[vash]

my fridge repair guy told me that losing freon is very rare in his experience.

when he showed up i had already cleaned the hell out of the coils. i blew it out with compressed air. he said it was the cleanest he's ever seen an old fridge.

he literally cleaned the condenser fan, changed a tiny electrical unit (plug and play) and it got so cold so fast. if i remember he felt something get cold (or was it warm?) and felt the freon charge was healthy.

good luck. i know this was probably no help

[rusnak]

There are some basic things that you can do, such as check to see if the compressor is running, look for a cutoff switch, and see if the motor is bad. I was looking for service fittings on my buddy's AC unit on his food trailer, but there were none. If it was mine, I would have risked putting some on, but he's not mechanical at all so it's better to let him buy a new unit. One of my ice makers crapped the bed, and I chose to just buy a new evaporator and pump unit. The condenser is on the roof. In this case, I really don't have time to mix and match parts - too busy, so I'm just going to let a repair guy do it.

[908/930]

Not a pro, but I think fridge and small appliances charge are filled by weight, look for an amount in oz not sure if is labeled anywhere. Then put your 134a tank on a scale.

[GH85Carrera]

The fridge was cooling, just not like it should. I cleaned the coils and that really did nothing to improve the cooling. From the research I have found, the low side or suction should read about negative 5 PSI. I added a few "bumps" of R134a and let is settle down. Right now I am at -4 PSI and that is as close as I could get.

It is 5 degrees in the freezer, and 42 in the fridge right now and it is still running.

The compressor kicks on and it is obvious when I put my hand on it, that it is running. All the fans are running. I will know more tomorrow morning. I need to determine what is the proffered temp for the fridge and the freezer.

[fintstone]

Check the evaporator fan if the freezer is ok and the fridge a little warm.

[schwarz633]

I had a refrigerator a while back that always struggled to keep cool during the summer. I cleaned the condenser coils by tipping it back and even had a service guy look at it. As I recall, the problem turned out to be a big dirt/dust/hair blockage in the condenser fan that wasn't obvious until it was either laid on it's side or the rear cover removed, can't remember.

[PorscheGAL]

I have nothing against repairing an appliance and have done repairs on occasion but this fridge is 24 years old. Why not just buy a new more efficient model? Sure coolant is cheaper but how much time will you do research and what happens if that isn't the problem?

[recycled sixtie]

I have never heard of anybody replenishing the coolant in a fridge. As Porsche Gal says your fridge is 24 years old. Perhaps it is time to replace it with a fridge that would be more energy efficient and reliable? We have a downstairs fridge that has got to be 40 years old. Runs like a top but I question how much power it uses a month!

[billybek]

Clean the condensing coil and fan. Compressed air and a vacuum will make short work of it and not much mess.
Condensing fan operation. If the bearings are on the way out it may not be doing its job adequately.
Evap fan. Ditto
Defrost heaters and timer.
Overloading fridge or freezer.
Before adding a piercing (saddle) valve, check the temperature of the lines.
Suction line should be cool-cold to the touch depending on load.
Discharge line should be hot to the touch.
Liquid line out of the condenser should be warm.
Refrigerators are critically charged. If they are leaking somewhere, it can be a bugger to find and repair.
A long time ago, we would do a frostback charge.
After evacuating (full empty system or after a sealed system repair) charge the system by guess and start up the refrigerator. If there was frost all the way to the compressor after the refrigerator reached temp we would "recover" some of the refrigerant until the frost would melt close to the compressor. It wasn't a perfect science but it worked.

[GH85Carrera]

Originally Posted by PorscheGAL

I have nothing against repairing an appliance and have done repairs on occasion but this fridge is 24 years old. Why not just buy a new more efficient model? Sure coolant is cheaper but how much time will you do research and what happens if that isn't the problem?

Read the reviews on new refrigerators. It is really easy to spend $2,000 or more, and have a fridge that requires a $50 water filter every 3 months, and than the fridge dies completely in 5 years or less.

The energy efficiency of continuing to use a 24 year old unit is way outweighed by the cost of the new systems on the market.

Name a fridge made now that is made with real quality in mind, and will last 20+ years.

[rusnak]

^ Those do exist, but they cost more like $10K, not $2K. Subzero, Wolf, and now True come to mind.

[billybek]

Funny, I am looking at a fridge online that has been in storage for many years that is identical to mine. I know that it will fit in the spot perfectly and being a high end fridge back in the day, it should last for many years. Will keep it as a backup if I decide to purchase it.

I agree that the quality of the new fridges is suspect. They simply are not designed to run for 20+ years anymore and parts availability is sketchy after 5 years. YMMV.

[GH85Carrera]

Originally Posted by rusnak

^ Those do exist, but they cost more like $10K, not $2K. Subzero, Wolf, and now True come to mind.

So 10 grand for a fridge. Wow. No matter how much more energy efficient it is, that will never pay out in my lifetime.

[KFC911]

When I pay $10K for a fridge.... I will just leave the door open and hell will freeze over .

[908/930]

Add Miele and Thermador to that list. A large part of that jump in that price is for built in fridge, basically car style door hinges that swing the door out, lower production so more cost to build. They are a lot more money but they are built to last, usually about 400-450lbs. $10k is not what it once was.

[rusnak]

Originally Posted by 908/930

Add Miele and Thermador to that list. A large part of that jump in that price is for built in fridge, basically car style door hinges that swing the door out, lower production so more cost to build. They are a lot more money but they are built to last, usually about 400-450lbs. $10k is not what it once was.

Yep, you totally nailed it. I got a True residential built in because I wanted it for my office. I'm trying to drink more water and less soda. I don't really have the space for kitchen cabinets and stuff, so screw it, I left it free standing. One additional comment is be sure that you get a residential True, Sub Zero, Wolf, Miele, etc because the commercial units sound like a lawnmower when they kick on.

[vash]

G. i looked up my repair invoice. the part that he changed out was the starting capacitor..(run capacitor?). i think it essentially lets the system get up and running. my symptoms were the same as you. i had to keep lowering the thermostat.

it immediately fixed the issue.

i considered a new fridge, but i had the added headache of owning an existing fridge that is smaller than anything i can buy new. it literally would not fit into my opening without new cabinetry. screw that.

[nota]

the freon loss was manual defrosting with a sharp tool by people in a hurry mostly

now days the controls relays or stats go way before the compressor or gas loss

my 3 door went out because it was too cool and iced the freezer air flow deicer

on line part was a quick swap one we found it 20 to fix a near 2k unit when new
common fault on this model it had been replaced by the guy we got it from
he did not solder or crimp the wires and they corroded just twisted
so we solder and heat shrink sealed the connections