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Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Catonsville, MD
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What is a battery charger's lifespan?
My 11 year old Optima battery would not hold a charge any longer, and I tried all the tricks I could find on the internet to revive it, but was unsuccessful. So yesterday I went to Autozone, had them test my old battery (I think I heard a slight chuckle when the manager saw the 4/11 date sticker) and got a new one. I noticed the "new one" was dated 1/21 and the parts manager said that battery life starts when put into use. (First question: is this true?)
Then I got home, checked the voltage of the new battery and it was 12.0V. I hooked it up to my also-11-year-old CTEK 3300 charger, set it to the AGM setting and the charge light came on as expected. Left charging overnight (not installed in the 930) and this morning it is only at 12.4V. I think the AGM setting is supposed to charge to 14V. So my second question is, do maintenance chargers also have a lifespan? How can I verify if mine is dead? In the end, buying a new battery and a new charger every 11 years isn't the worst problem to have when owning a 42 year old car, but it'd be nice to know. Thanks!
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Vic '79 930 '97 Miata M edition missing my Tony//Kart 125cc shifterkart |
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D idn't E arn I t
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14V on an AGM seems high. They are very sensitive to overcharging.
12.4 Seems OK.
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I think all automotive batteries should charge to 12.6 V. I think they have 6x 2.1V cells.
I wouldn't expect a charger to have a lifespan like a consumable, but any electronic item can go bad. 11 years is pretty spectacular for a battery. I'd be pleased with 7 or 8 years. Most batteries are going to have been made in the past. I wouldn't be too worried about a 1.5 year old battery. The thing that kills batteries is heat, vibration, and discharging/recharging. Since a battery on a shelf hasn't really had any of that occurring, it should be fine.
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Steve '08 Boxster RS60 Spyder #0099/1960 - never named a car before, but this is Charlotte. '88 targa ![]() Last edited by masraum; 07-03-2022 at 05:24 AM.. |
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This is the charger I have. Commentary at 0:50 is what I was basing my questions from.
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Vic '79 930 '97 Miata M edition missing my Tony//Kart 125cc shifterkart |
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Good luck with a newer Optima.
My old Optima lasted over 12 years...replaced it with the same and it didn't even make 4 years. I'll never buy another Optima.
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Get off my lawn!
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My battery charger is 35 years old. It is a Schumacher, and works great. It is 100% analog. I do have a small trickle charger maintainer in the 911 for the winter months when there is snow and ice on the ground for a couple of months.
I have seen batteries last 10 or 11 years and I have seen a lot of them in the recent decade last just a coupe of years before they short out internally and can't even be jump started.
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Glen 49 Year member of the Porsche Club of America 1985 911 Carrera; 2017 Macan 1986 El Camino with Fuel Injected 350 Crate Engine My Motto: I will never be too old to have a happy childhood! |
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Evil Genius
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I've got a 2011 battery that lasted 11 years, but now time to replace.
Battery chargers either work or don't, not like they've run out of volts just being old.
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I just had a Sears branded battery charger die . None of the lights come on . Bought it at a garage sale two years ago . Oh well time to buy another . I have three others so no rush .
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I'm only nervous because my 2009 Optima lasted 2 years, which I blamed on not using a maintainer and I let the voltage drop too low. Then I was very diligent about always having the 2011 battery plugged in, and it lasted this long until last month I didn't notice that somehow the charger had been turned off (it usually stayed on) and the next time I tried to fire up the car it was dead. So, I am hoping not to kill this new battery. My "battery full" light is not coming on, which is having me question this charger/maintainer. If I can't confirm that it won't kill my new battery, I guess I'll be buying a new charger/maintainer in the next 48 hours. I just connected my lawnmower battery to see if it will do a full charge and the proper light will come on.
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Quote:
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I agree with masraum. The CTEKs are excellent maintainers, but they dont really have the amps that a charger has. If your new battery reads 12 volts its about dead and will need a real charger. I believe 12.3 v is about 50% charge, and it drops off fast from there.
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Team California
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I just had to replace my very old Schumacher "computerized" electronic charger. I don't remember when I bought it but it could have been 20 years ago. It finally just quit working, probably a chip or two inside of it. They have a finite lifespan. An old analog charger like Glen's might last forever if it was made well enough.
I like the fancy electronic ones because I'm always concerned about over charging batteries and they are automatic. I have way too many batteries. I bought this on Amazon with free same day shipping and it showed up the same day. Order in morning, got it in the afternoon. Heck of a deal compared to the ones at Autozone as well: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BLLRM8R?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
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Quote:
2) When buying a battery at the local auto parts store, I always have them put their tester on it before they get my money. Even the guy working the sporting goods counter at the local Walmart has a battery tester behind the counter. Ideally, I would expect to see a fresh battery off the shelf to show 12.6 Volts. 12.68 is really nice. And yes, I always put a new battery on a charger before installation, as my friend says "gets their attention and wakes them up". The Autozone Duralast T6-DLG was the battery I went with for my SC back in early 2016. It was made in the last week of 2015 and even had a "Made in Germany" sticker on it (!). I've yet to have a problem with it and my car has gone months in the garage without being used or being on a maintenance charger until a day or two before I decide to drive it. I like the Viking 4 amp battery charger/maintainer that is usually about $30 at your local Harbor Freight. That's a really nice little charger. Last edited by SCadaddle; 07-03-2022 at 11:24 AM.. |
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Buy one of these...better than a load tester. Measures milliamps of resistance between the posts. Operates on the battery power itself. (edit) Or buy something similar. The milliamps of resistance measuring is the key.
https://www.harborfreight.com/digital-automotive-battery-analyzer-66892.html Take one of the above with you to the parts store...parts manager may not like it, but it's one way to assure you're buying the one with the least resistance between the posts. "parts manager said that battery life starts when put into use. (First question: is this true?)" NOT true..might have been in the old days of when batterys were shipped dry and the acid added when you bought one...but with today's AMGs? Nope. "So my second question is, do maintenance chargers also have a lifespan? How can I verify if mine is dead?" I use a multimeter to check voltage with the charger hooked up. First note voltage with charger not hooked to 110. Then note voltage when charger hooked to 110..if voltage is higher when hooked to 110? Bingo...it's working. Most chargers charge at a bit more than 13 volts. Think I read somewhere that AGMs prefer 4 amps or less charger input...
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^ I think Porsche still does that. They are shipped dry, and the dealer adds acid when you buy one. At least that's what they did when I bought one for the Cayman. Not cheap, either.
I don't think any of my battery chargers have actually died of natural causes. More likely in our work setting to fall off of a tractor or forklift and meet their demise that way. The one in the shop is a DSR "Powered by Schumacher". ![]() https://www.grainger.com/product/DSR-PROSERIES-Battery-Charger-Wheeled-Charger-485C83?opr=IDPPLARECS&analytics=PLAPDP_undefined |
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Copy and paste from the Autozone website regarding battery warranties:
"This warranty lasts from the day you buy the battery to the end of the warranty period on your receipt. This warranty expires when you sell or transfer your vehicle. If the battery is found defective during the free replacement period on your receipt, bring the battery to any AutoZone store and you will receive a free replacement. If a battery is found defective after the free replacement period but before the end of the warranty period on your receipt, a credit towards the purchase of a new battery shall be made upon its return to any AutoZone store. If applicable, the credit is calculated as follows: (Remaining Warranty Months / Total Warranty Months) x Original Price" |
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Join Date: Apr 2002
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If an Optima is drained, you might need an initial charge that's pretty high ... say 40-100 amps, for just a few minutes, to revive them, then lower it (like 2 amps) for the remaining charge & maintaining.
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Also, watching the Ctek video, it said that on the winter and amg setting it charges AT 14 volts...not that it would charge the battery TO 14 volts. The 3 year old Optima in my Mustang still tests good, and after being fully charged reads 12.65 volts on my cheapy Craftsman multimeter..
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"Now, to put a water-cooled engine in the rear and to have a radiator in the front, that's not very intelligent." -Ferry Porsche (PANO, Oct. '73) (I, Paul D. have loved this quote since 1973. It will remain as long as I post here.) |
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I wouldn't buy another Optima. Had great luck with other AMGs.
I have had good luck with hooking an other battery along with the Optima to revive them. The charger will continue to charge both because it senses the need to charge up the batter. Guy at interstate taught me that trick about 10 years ago. I have has enough of the newer Optima batteries. Red, yellow tops, same crap. They die in 2-3 years. My yellow top in my s2000 died right after the two year period. Twice, not one time. Red tops? All done within three years time. have gone back to lead acid Interstate from Costo. Simple and they always have plenty on their rack. |
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My analog Schumaker still working perfectly. Its over 30 years old.
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