Retrofitting self closing cabinets/drawers
 

My wife is annoyed that the home we built 6 years ago does not have self closing cabinets and drawers. Our builder wasn't great with finishing touchers, so I would like to start converting cabinets and drawers in the kitchen and master bath to self closing.

We have a lot of experienced builders here, so I was wondering how hard of a project this is for the mechanically inclined. Any gotchas? Is there a good brand of hardware that I should look at that isn't too expensive? Any good sites to look this stuff up?

Thanks,
Neil

I have done it ant it isn't too bad with the right hardware.

Get me a pic of the drawer and the exterior depth of the drawer (front to back, not bottom to top). A pic of the existing slides. This way, I can get you the exact slides with no modification. Today's issues are broken supply chain. I have been waiting for some German (Blum) slides for months now. Nothing.

I retrofitted all the drawers in my master bath a couple of months ago with these. Piece of cake. And they work beautifully

Desunia Slides & Hinges

Randy

Wow, time really escaped me. The Desunia slides look nice for the price. I saw sum Blum slides for a bit more than twice the price. That might get a bit pricey with the number of drawers we have, but if they are easier to install, that might be worth it.

I attached some pictures of the drawers and cabinets. I really appreciate the help with sizing. I would guess I need 22" slides?



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1661742327.jpg

Oops, upside down.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1661742327.jpg



Any thoughts on replacing these generic cabinet hinges?
Style 1

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1661742327.jpg

Style 2
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1661742327.jpg

Thanks!
Neil

22" side mount slides. Self closing slides can be had without any mod to the drawer or the opening. Must use low profile screw that may or may not come with slides. Pull slide apart by pressing the release. Attach the small portion on drawer, then the large part to the side of cabinet. You must measure the tolerances are super important here or else you will have crocked drawers.

The first pic is a Blum face frame hinge looks to be replaced once, 3/4" overlay (the amount the door sits over the frame). Bottom hinge is junk. Replace them all with Blum 3/4 over lay(lets make sure the overlay is 3/4") and a face frame plate. Install the plate and the door clips into the plate. no more messing around with screws to tighten the two together.

https://www.cabinetparts.com/p/accuride-drawer-slides-side-mount-drawer-slides-AC383222EC-p184?mtm_campaign=780262739&mtm_group=43589091591& mtm_source=google_ad&mtm_medium=cpc&gclid=CjwKCAjw pKyYBhB7EiwAU2Hn2d8hXPO3LLR0W7tsPnhHx7Btg25YE0uiz8 kPaME5gV-AoJCrsPr6mRoCAPEQAvD_BwE

We use only accurate for side mount slides and have been for a long time (way before the Chinese imports). I am sure some of the Chinese imports are just as good now, and have used them in a pinch and have not had any call backs. Cost less too.


https://www.cabinetparts.com/p/blum-hinges-european-cabinet-hinges-BH71B3590-p6660?s_qid=216ca5d150ca95d9cf77940e67b2d45e

120 degree can be had if you like. This is 110 degree
Pull off the old hinge and remove the plastic plug in the 5mm hole and insert new hinge, snap to tighten. Do not drill out the hole to remove plug. The 5mm hole must not be enlarge or alter at all.

https://www.cabinetparts.com/p/blum-hinges-european-cabinet-hinges-BH175L660022-p6577?s_qid=78b5773684651462c7cb41ff5187839c

This is the 0mm hinge plate you need. It attaches to the frame. Please predrill the screw holes. I can see someone just cramp the screw in the face frame causing the wood to split. Make sure its 3/4" overlay.


This is a pretty simple DIY now that you have all the correct parts needed.

Do not remove the metal drawer slide brackets in the back. Look to see if the existing slides are accurate and they look like it because of the black release. If so, the new will fit into the sockets perfectly. Good luck. Give me a shout if youneed more info.

For the cabinet doors, I bought a couple sets of these from Menards.
https://www.menards.com/main/hardware/cabinet-hardware/cabinet-hinges/1-1-4-overlay-soft-close-face-frame-cabinet-hinge/cup3ad9xxuzbv12/p-177023397382527-c-9338.htm?tid=-3239628490953555376&ipos=3
You'll just need to match the overlay of your existing hinge.

Fun fact, my upper doors take 3 hinges, and 3 soft close hinges take forever to close, so I put a regular hinge back in the middle position. Works as I would expect now, even a year later. I only did a couple doors, I'll do more as the original hinges fail.

Not trying to cause any trouble here - but why would someone want drawers and cab. doors to close on them? I like leaving mine open while I take things in and out of them....then to close them is such simple little task - it doesn't even register a second thought....

They don't close automatically but when you do close them you can let go at a certain point and they slowly finish the closing.

I put all self closing drawers in my kitchen when I remodeled and none of them work. Not sure what I did wrong since they all open and close pretty easy.

I did start replacing my spring type doors with self closing hinges and got less than stellar results. It's like the self closing type puts more stress on the frame.

WOW, thanks so much for all the information. I am placing an order for 6 sets of drawer slides to get started, and if I am satisfied, I will work my way around the kitchen and master bath. The hinges on the other hand are a pain. When I add the 2 parts to the cart, they show as 5/8" overlay. When I try to get a 3/4", it displays another part. What drop down option do I need to pick from the product screen?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1661827816.png

Thanks again!
Neil

Its all metric, so get the 0mm plate is the one you need. That is the correct hinge, because it has about 1/8" left or right adjustment. Once installed, it needs to be moved about 1/16" to create a 1/16" gap between the edge of cabinet or the other door. Between doors, there should 1/8" gap.

Dave they need adjustment. Those hinges have a three way adjustment to get everything line up perfectly. If two of the hinges, especially three hinge longer doors, do not line up or adjusted perfectly, it will put a bit of stress on the hinge itself inturn the frame.

My suggestion is to adjust the door away from the cabinet on the hinge side. That will relief a lot of the tension allowing it to close fully. I think you have a bit of binding going on there. There should be a 1/16" gap between door and cabinet on the hinge side of the door

There's self closing then there self closing with soft closing. One of the issue we discovered over the years was the 35mm cup home drilled in thedoor isn't deep enough for the soft closing hinges. so it tends to bind a bit. They need 1/16" more to make then work perfectly. Kick the door out from the frame on the hinge side. 1/16" gap is needed there for them to function properly.

Thanks. Initial order placed for 6 drawer slides and just 1 cabinet hinge. I want to see how it goes before I spend a lot more money.

Thanks for all the help!

Neil

^this is essential advice.

My 'tweek' is to attach the inner screw on the top and bottom hinges.
Just tight enough to rotate and set hinge placement.

Open and close door carefully so everything moves into position.
Check square.
Mark.

That should align it enough to set everything else.
Tighten it down after a few more tries with easy movement and proper fit to both sides and equal around the frame.

Must replace both hinges on one door for test fitting or else it will bind.

Depending on the hinge plate. Some have no adjustment on them Which are very common ( we use lots of those and are actually stronger then the "wing" looking type and lower profile). The hinge plate OP shown us in the second pic has a elongated slot that allows what you described. The adjustment is in those hinge adjustment screws. Again, look at the gap between door and cabinet. As long its it has 1/8" then it should be fine. Adj from there. Sometimes, cabinets themselves aren't plum and most people fake it with adjusting doors to fit.

Dave, see the door gap (on top) distance to the cabinet in OP's second pic? Its tighter up top then the lower portion. Sometimes just that small adjustment will release the door from binding keeping it from auto closing all the way leaving a small gap. Unscrew the screw furthest to the back, give it a small tap and it will more that door forward. Newer hinges have a screw that will push the door out without the inaccurate tapping with a hammer. The large cross slotted screw in the midddle of the hinge is to pull the door toward the center or away from it. The up down adjustment is on the plate with the two wood screws. Hope this helps