Flex PVC Question

[hcoles]

I'm considering putting in a small flex section of PVC under the house. Can this stuff really be glued to normal Sch 40 PVC fittings with the standard primer and glue? Any things to look out for? Thanks.

[nota]

do not know never messed with flex

have heat bent normal pvc with a hot air gun for the pool/pond

[A930Rocket]

I have used a flexible PVC pipe a few times, but nothing for pressure. I believe it’s a schedule 40 pipe and it uses purple primer and PVC glue like everything else.

What exactly are you trying to do with it?

[hcoles]

Originally Posted by A930Rocket

I have used a flexible PVC pipe a few times, but nothing for pressure. I believe it’s a schedule 40 pipe and it uses purple primer and PVC glue like everything else.

What exactly are you trying to do with it?

In my crawl space I have 1 1/2" or maybe 1 1/4" pvc running to the sprinkler system in the garage. This line is fed by the service meter and doesn't go through my regulator so the pressure is whatever is provided by the water company. The pressure is above 60 maybe up to 80 or a bit more. It's a long story.... I disconnected this line because I found a rusting fitting near the stand pipe and there is now a strange offset and I was thinking of putting in a piece of flex pvc instead of trying to glue up a bunch of fittings.
I'm now thinking I should try a length of Pex instead. I know how to deal with Pex - I installed Pex a number of years ago to replace all the galvanized pipe.

[dad911]

That's alot of pressure. 2" and 1.5" flexible PVC is commonly used for pool installations, but the pressure is alot lower.

I would get water service line with the proper pressure (compression) fittings. Not that expensive, rated for 250#

[Baz]

Originally Posted by hcoles

I'm considering putting in a small flex section of PVC under the house. Can this stuff really be glued to normal Sch 40 PVC fittings with the standard primer and glue? Any things to look out for? Thanks.

Originally Posted by hcoles

In my crawl space I have 1 1/2" or maybe 1 1/4" pvc running to the sprinkler system in the garage. This line is fed by the service meter and doesn't go through my regulator so the pressure is whatever is provided by the water company. The pressure is above 60 maybe up to 80 or a bit more. It's a long story.... I disconnected this line because I found a rusting fitting near the stand pipe and there is now a strange offset and I was thinking of putting in a piece of flex pvc instead of trying to glue up a bunch of fittings.
I'm now thinking I should try a length of Pex instead. I know how to deal with Pex - I installed Pex a number of years ago to replace all the galvanized pipe.

I try not to use flex pipe anymore than I have to just for the reason you mentioned - using cement (glue) that will hold it properly.

I have used standard PVC cement with success, but was very careful to have everything perfectly clean and completely dry. Then let it set up at least an hour before any water goes through it - longer if possible.

You also don't want any pressure on the flex pipe like any sharp bends - especially where it joins the PVC.

I have been told though if one is using a cement for it - this is the stuff to use:
https://tchristy.com/product/red-hot-blue-glue/

In your situation - no way I would use it for a line that is under constant high pressure, as in your case.

Feel free to reply with any photos of what you are dealing with and I or others here, like Dad911, are happy to provide opinions on repair options.

Originally Posted by dad911

That's alot of pressure. 2" and 1.5" flexible PVC is commonly used for pool installations, but the pressure is alot lower.

I would get water service line with the proper pressure (compression) fittings. Not that expensive, rated for 250#

Agree!

[hcoles]

Okay, thanks for all the comments. I'm off of using PVC flex and will look at the water service line.

[hcoles]

Looks like the materials mentioned are PEX and PE-RT. Is that correct? Using the proper inserts is mentioned. Thanks.

[hcoles]

I'm thinking the push-on shart-bite type fittings are not the best, what is the other fitting type called? Thanks.

[hcoles]

Is it something like this?

[hcoles]

Maybe go with PEX. PEX seems to have very similar specs. to PE-RT and I can use the band clamping tool I have - I think I can it may not go up to 1". Another issue.

[Baz]

Need more info. Photos would be a big help.....

[hcoles]

Baz, please stand by the situation is in the crawl space and I need to get in there and it isn't that easy or comfortable. :-)

[Baz]

Originally Posted by hcoles

Baz, please stand by the situation is in the crawl space and I need to get in there and it isn't that easy or comfortable. :-)

No worries - I totally understand. Do what you need to do. Right now I just don't understand what you are dealing with there.

I also wonder if the feed pipe is smaller - most domestic water lines are 3/4". Yours shouldn't be any larger than 1". But you know over the years I have seen a lot of things that are not conventional!

[dad911]

Originally Posted by hcoles

I'm thinking the push-on shart-bite type fittings are not the best, what is the other fitting type called? Thanks.

Back to the original questions, I'm not sure I understand the scope of work. Are you connecting to schedule 40 PVC that is already there? If so, you adapt pvc to a threaded connection, screw in an adapter to pex, then run pex. Especially if you are comfortable with pex.

[wdfifteen]

I used 2" flex PVC on my pool pump. The only problem I had was with the shallow depth of the female fitting I was trying to glue it to. It was only about 1 inch deep. I replaced it with a better quality fitting with a deeper socket and it worked well. I did buy what they called special flex PVC glue, but I'm not sure it was necessary.

[GH85Carrera]

At my old house that was a stem wall construction, I waned to run a gas line out to my gas grill in the back yard. The only source of natural gas was under the house in the kitchen. The real issue was the kitchen was as far away from the under house entrance as possible. So I got to crawl on my belly until I discovered the air conditioning supply line was blocking my path. So craw out, get a shovel, and shovel a deeper path under the vent, while on my stomach. That took a while, and I finally got back there, and made my connection, and I never had to worry about running out of propane ever again.

Only because I was in my 30s could I have done that project. Somewhere I have a photo of that gas grill burning off the old food grease with 8 inches of snow on the ground and a path I shoveled to get to the grill. I cooked a lot of meals on that grill.

You will want a very solid non flex connection is it is under constant pressure like that. You sure don't want to come home and find water running out from under your house and have to shut the water off to the entire house as the swamp under the house drains down. You might want to add in a shut off ball valve to it as well.

Good luck. Working under a house is not fun. We have a slab foundation house now.

[hcoles]

Copy that. I want a solid connection with some anchors going to the joists.
I replaced all the old galvanized pipe with PEX but the line to the sprinklers is PVC. I need to go inspect to see that the rats are not near to chewing on that. I just need to get up the nerve to go under there. It's now not hot outside so I have no good excuse. I do plan to put in a ball valve so I can shut off the line going to the garage sprinklers if I need to do additional maintenance.
I have a rat trap setup with no takers on the peanut butter but they are getting smart now. When I just put peanuts under there they were gone the next day - so I know I have rats.
Reminds me of a saying - "What ever needs to be done, something must be done first."

[GH85Carrera]

One of the many things I like about this house is there is the standard water meter at the curb with a shutoff, and as a bonus, we have a ball valve shutoff for just the house in the front hall closet close to the front door. So I can shut off the water inside, work on a toilet or whatever, and never have to go outside.

When it comes to your water project, over design, or build, and be happy it will not be a problem in 5 or 10 years. We used to by ball valves that were designed for the gas company, direct bury, and all stainless steel construction. They never leaked and were wonderful. Just painful expensive, but we never had to fix them!

[Baz]

Originally Posted by hcoles

no takers on the peanut butter but they are getting smart now.

Try using a Slim Jim. I usually buy the smaller ones (snack size) and divide one of those into 4 pieces - each about 3/4" long.

Pierce it onto the snap trap prong.

Highly effective.