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All really good ideas, fellas. Thanks a bunch. I’ll take better pics tomorrow. I knew I can depend on the Pelican brain trust.
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There ya go (jyl's post sleeve idea)
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1677135380.JPG And some paint. IDK... |
The gate might be toast to my eyes.
As a minimum unscrew it, set flat in driveway, wood bleach/cleaner it and let soak in, power wash, let dry a week or two, unscrew, bar clamp it back to square, You can 'handshake' these to any length screw back together with new hardware (stuff rotten holes with toothpicks), soak with good stain ~ cherry colored two coats would be a guess but always err on the light side add corner brackets https://www.strongtie.com/solutions Simpson now makes nice thick black pieces |
Yeah, but the Simpson stuff is going to rust.
Use only SS for anything outdoors structural. |
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I'd like to see what it looks like as well.
If I really had to get that post out, I'd probably sink some lag bolts into it, and use a bottle jack on either side to try and jack it out. |
I did something similar last year. The post was a 6 X 6 end post and not rotted. I attached an "L" shaped iron bracket to the post (a wood block might also work) with 3 long screws and used my garage floor jack sitting on a board to slowly lift it out straight up and out. I didn't think it would work but I didn't want to have to dig it out. If that post is typical it is it there at least 24". I had to reposition the jack several times as the angle of the arm changed with the changing height of the "L" shaped arm as it came out.
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Agree with the others. Glue and screw the post to keep it solid, no need to dig it out. Lay out the gate and get it square. A diagonal cable with turnbuckle from the top hinge bolt can keep it that way and eliminate sag.
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Sounds like a great excuse to use explosives, but probably more socially acceptable to repair the top portion and let the bottom go.
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I'd change those hinges if it were mine. Get some of the kind they use for chain link fences. Thru bolt them to the post and gates. Much easier to adjust the swing of the gates with them.
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https://www.vandykes.com/gate-hardware/c/505/ https://www.hingeandlatch.com/fieldgate.php |
Here are pics of the gate and posts. Based on some of the advice here, I’ll reinforce the posts with glue and screws plus square up the gate. I’ll probably replace the 1x6s with 14 guage galvanized fence wire. That’ll lighten the gate, prevent further sagging and be able to withstand wind gusts we often get here.
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Like others have said, your posts look fine. Your gates are the problem.
Designed to sag and rack from day one. |
If your posts are plumb, your gates are warped. As above, through bolt the posts to eliminate or contain further splitting. Add diagonal bracing to the gate halves. I would add wheels to the ends of the gates to carry the weight.
I would not use turnbuckles and cables to support the sagging of the gates as that might worsen the warping. Maybe just rebuild the gates so they are not twisted. Best Les |
I think look171 and his plywood fix are going to be the best way to go here. I think that's what I'd do. It'll eliminate the sag and the warp.
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What does your level say?
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Those gates need wheels for support..http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1677187709.jpg
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