Need advice on how to replace a split gate post
 

Hey all, I have a sagging 10’ gate I need to fix. The gate posts also should be replaced but their cemented in my driveway. How do I get the posts out without jackhammering them out? Or maybe that’s the only way? Below is how they’re sunk in. Appreciate any advice!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1677119431.jpg
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fire?

This is on my spring to-do list. No idea!

Two individual gates to make up 10' or two 10' gates to make up 20'?

Regardless, diagonally brace the gate from the lower hinge to the opposite upper corner. Bring the gate into square by blocking before bracing.

Is the split post affecting the gate? Leave the post in place and sleeve it with fence board on all 4 sides, securing the sleeve with glue and fasteners.

That looks like a royal PITA...

If it was me: Drill/Dig out the old post then assess the situation (how deep etc.). Use a shop vac to get the hole really clean. The post probably extends below the concrete into the dirt.

So what are you going to replace the post with? I'd use a galvanized steel box tube. Cut a hole large enough for new concrete in the existing the concrete (using a wet saw and chisel). You should be able to level the new concrete off so it blends well.

10 odd years ago I built a small garage. This is how I secured the posts.
Note you don't need a massive hole but it has to be deep. Deeper than the bottom on the new posts.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1677121241.jpg

Yep, it does look like a major PITA.

Me being a Kiwi, I'd just put a few big stainless steel screws in it and call it done.

I have a 6’ and 4’ piece that make up my 10’ gate.

I like the idea of strengthening the gate posts with boards all around then driving bolts through to secure them. It would definitely be a PITA to dig them out but probably easier and cheaper than jackhammering my expensive a55 driveway. If I can’t save the gate posts, I’ll replace them with galvanized steel.

LOL... :D

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The post looks fine.

Unscrew the gate, lay it on the ground, measure, and duplicate it with 2x4 and 1x6.
A hand saw and electric drill/screwdriver should be the only tools needed.

New wood should be stained a year later in hot dry conditions after the moisture levels have stabilized.

Add another hinge or two in the center for support if you want.

Apply lots of stain/oil to the post itself. Or even build up a bevel around the base to shed water.
That should last a while.

I agree with John. Posts looks fine. Get us a pic of the gate further away.

Check if post is plumb. I think your gate is sagging from its own weight. Measure the diagonals. That number should be the same or close. If not, there maybe few ways to repair instead of making new. Start with that.

I’ll take better pics tomorrow but the posts are split near the top.

I did this a few mos ago. Your setup looks almost identical to mine less the dry set wall.

I cut them ~3 inches from flush to the concrete surface, put an auger bit in the drill and drilled out series of holes down the centerline running north --> south and east-->west, cleaned a little with a chisel for a (mostly) clean slot, took a 5 lb sledge and knocked the 4 sections inward one at a time, pulled them out mostly intact.

Once the first piece comes out the rest are easy. Trick is to get all the way down to the bottom of the post.

Still sounds like it’s going to be a PITA

If the base of the post is ok...you can splice in a top section by cutting out half the 4x4 and screwing them together.
(At least a foot overlap of the adjoining 2x4 imo layman opinion)

It may look odd if the cuts and stain are not precise but it will work and be stable. Cheap fix here.

Then protect the new top with oil stain and a cap while it dries out.
The ends of the grain are most vulnerable to water.

All about perspective. Less of a PITA than cut, bust out the concrete, reset the post, pour new. I didn't want another mismatched patch.

I'd like to see the pictures but from what you describe as a split at the top, my first thought would be to sandwich 2 steel plates on either side of the split with thru bolts.
you could mortise them in with a chisel or a router (if you have room) so they aren't noticeable.
edit, a few 1/2 inch or 5/16 thru bolts with countersunk fender washers (all galvy) would probably do the job.

Then, if you just have wood screws in the hinge hardware, replace all those with thru bolts too.
Whoever designed that setup did you no favors sinking the posts in the driveway, but they look solid in your pictures.

Neighbor has a wooden gate like that across his driveway. Out at the ends of the swinging panels in the center of his driveway the panels have a spring loaded wheel, like the tailwheel on an airplane. Works like a champ to support the ends of the gate panels and making them easy to open and close.

All posts sitting outside have some type of split in them. Again, we are not there to actually see it but I really think the gate is sagging and out of square. Use a bit of glue, and a couple clamps and let it set up over night. Put a couple of bolts through it. Good as new. Fix that gate if its sagging. Again, we need more info. Its a simple and cheap fix. Its not the best looking but its a less PITA judging from those simple pics nothing looks rotted.

^ that's good. Use epoxy, or a urethane, not wood glue (not water proof)

Also you could put a veneer layer of cedar on the faces of the posts. (looks like the gate is cedar, so it should match up in time)

Weird idea - have a metal shop make you a square section sleeve that slides over the existing post.

As for the gate, I’m a fan of a large rubber wheel attached to the swinging end of the gate, that supports it so it doesn’t even want to sag.