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I envy you guys with space enough for a fixed workbench and bench vise. I’m making do with a Workmate 225 or sitting my a55 on the garage floor.
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Solid core doors are tough to beat . Very strong and can be purchased used . My previous house I found on CL a guy selling a bunch of them . They came out of a police station being renovated . I bought one and ripped the length with my circular saw to get rid of the handle hole . The piece I cut off I used as a backsplash .
That turned out to be the most solid workbench I had ever used . Solid birch with a beautiful clear urethane finish . The couple that bought the house the husband told the realtor he loved that workbench 😁 . |
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I built mine out of 4x6s with 2x6 bracing for a solid base. I didn't try to make it pretty. The top is 3/4 plywood with hard masonite on top and a piece of angle iron on the front edge. I usually keep a sheet of corrugated cardboard on the top to soak up spills. I figure it's one of those tools I'm going to beat the hell out of so making it stout was the priority. For the vice I designed it so I could lag 3 of the 4 mounting hole into the 4x6s. I've had it for about 25 years. I like it. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1680899563.jpg |
Me thinks a lot of it has to do with what your small projects are.
I've found dirty car work (motor oil/rust), woodworking (shavings/sawdust), and metalworking (metal shavings)- don't mix. Somewhat different tops for all three. As others said- solid base is key, really for all three. specially with the vice. You want to be able to beat the hell out of it. Dirty stuff- Heavy duty lumber. Woodworking- nice closed cell wood like MBA targa's bench. Looks like maple or something. Fine stuff- electronics/model trains/ RC cars- I like white melamine tops. Easy to clean. Good contrast. Little screws have no where to hide. Metal- I also like a super hard smoothsurface like steel, nothing that will catch or embed metal shavings. So- basically, you'll need three benches.:D |
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Maybe you could have 3 tops that are hinged off of the top. That way you could have 3 tops on one bench. |
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With a firm base though - that would be the way to go. The vice will need to be a kick ass section on a corner all to itself though. The other thing I forgot to mention is if woodworking or fine surfaces are involved- to get a good mat to cover the bench with. something like- edit- funny they even have a guitar being made on it.- https://www.rockler.com/rockler-silicone-project-mat-xl-23-x-30?country=US&sid=V91040&promo=shopping&utm_source =google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_content=pla&u tm_campaign=PL&gclid=Cj0KCQjw_r6hBhDdARIsAMIDhV_Dh r2Jbudbt_0DV4gG7Ifsq4tGVn7qLs0Sz-19rJZ3zJfUN00EVBIaAusHEALw_wcB |
Rod Stewart said, "Every picture tells a story, don't it?"
Workbenches are only standard in factories. In your shop you build what works. I find that having old card tables, various carts, some sawhorses and stands, plus and old flush door, long tubes like EMT and 2 x 4's are very handy from project to project. My 2 permanent work benches see most of the work, but not all. One 3/4" layer is not enough unless there plenty of bracing. My lathe sits on 2 laminated 3/4 sheets PLUS a continuous base. Storage is paramount or your WB will soon be covered. |
^ And that's a good thing I've also learned. At least in my case, whatever I store 'below' the bench, ultimately gets contaminated with whatever gets worked on 'on' the bench. Make sure any storage under the bench is sealed as well as possible.
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Yep, Herr is correct. You know what our assembly benches are made of in our shop? Two layers of MDF and a Masonite or Formica top. The Formica or P-lam is actually kitchen counter tops. Ours are 4'x8' wide we buy from our vendor. Smaller tops can be purchased at Home Depot for cheap. Just remover the drip edge and edge it with a piece of hardwood. We like the p lam top because its easy to clean and it wouldn't scratch if something is slid across it and it glides smoothly. It gets ding up, unscrew from the bottom and replace with new.
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BIG DEEP storage is key |
The other thing is to build everything the same height. 4 smaller carts and benches can support a very large project.
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I remember a luthier near where I lived, who also taught classes. His first project for apprentice type students was to build their own workbenches- all modular - for ease of flexibility and arrangement.
Recently I bought a bunch of metal tool cabinents from HF- and got them all the same size/ height/etc for the exact reason Zeke mentions. All same table height ,and drawer interchangeability if needed. |
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1680903828.jpg
I have a couple of 8' benches set up. One I topped with 1⅛ plywood that I drill into, beat on, have a big vise mounted to, etc. and I use this one more for metal work. Stainless and cleanable. Can't have too many flat surfaces, I'm always setting up work tables as well |
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Someday I'm moving to a polebarn. (I'll sleep in an old RV I find for free on Craigslist, for all I care.) All the flat surfaces inside the pole barn will be on wheels and a consistent height. |
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Our work benches are about 32" but the benches that we assemble stuff on are only about 26 tall.
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All excellent info. Many online mention Masonite. It looks like there is also tempered Masonite.
@wifteen - I like your vice. I'll mount mine close to the edge like that also. I broke my current work table by pounding on the vice that's why I'm considering a new one. |
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