Me too, had them forever. Craftsman drill press from the '20s and Sioux grinder same era. They don't make quality stuff like that anymore. Check out the sticker on the drill press ha hahttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1680905702.jpg

I am experiencing stainless worktop envy. ;)

My old beater is over 25 years old. 3/4 particle board, 1/4" hard (tempered) masonite treated with Watco oil and edged with oak banding.

I whale on this thing, and it looks like it but it's been a stalwart, plus, it knocks down into 4 'panels' so I can move it as I move.

I'm jealous of you guys with the nice Wilton vices. This thing is kind of a turd.

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A Wilton is a piece of machinery. I don't mistreat machinery and therefore do not own a Wilton other than the little Shop King I use every day. But my welding vise is HF and my cemented-in-a-bucket moveable vise is a Columbian and it wasn't the prom queen when I got it. Those last 2 live outside and I pour oil on them regularly and cover with a plastic bag.

The HF vise flips over, swivels, holds pipe and a couple extra features. Not bad for 10 bucks used.

I've got a big pig vise that flips for a pipe too. Bigger the better for vices. Mine is 90 lbs. and made in China. The only decent tool from China I own. Is a Shop King like a Shop Smith?

That is very true about the Wilton. I just wish this thing had a decently even clamp pressure across the face of the jaws. I believe the nut and the screw are somehow misaligned and it 'pulls' to one side.

I've been looking at those HF "Doyle" branded vises. They're getting damn good reviews for the 150 or whatever bucks they cost.

(If I'm honest, I'd be a poor workman with the best tools, so blaming my tools at this level is just kidding myself at the most amateurish level)

That makes sense. When I do furniture it's on a dolly or low cart. Adjustable carts would be great but now you're gettin' in deep.

Whoa! That wouldn't go anywhere. My single layer seems solid as a rock.

My man cave workbench is 16' long . I bought three metal framed workbenches at an industrial close out . They had 3/4" thick wood tops . I bolted the frames together end to end . Then took another layer of 3/4" and glued and screwed to the existing tops overlapping the seams .

Then had a local metal shop bend me up a metal top . It's galvanized steel and has a backsplash and front apron . I used silicone adhesive and some screws to install the top . It is super easy to clean , it looks good and it is stout !!!

Here's my workbench. It's 6 months old.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1680912683.jpg

I have 3 that I use a lot.
One is a old kitchen cabinet with varnished particle board.
One is a framework of 2" x 4".s on casters with a brown Formica covered counter top.
The last is an old display with drawers and a set of sliding doors with viper green Formica covered counter top.
I like the Formica because it's cheap, quiet and when it is time to clean up, I spill some old paint thinner on it and wipe it off and give it a good buff.

My top is stainless steel on a hollow metal door with a unistruct frame. Steel casters. Strong like bull.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1680917158.jpg

I generally make mine 8 foot wide and 2 foot deep, with a shelf below. One piece of 4 x 8 x 3/4 ripped in half. 2 x 4 for legs and shelf support. I screw mine to the wall and make it high enough that when I’m standing at the workbench, it’s comfortable to work on something.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1680922288.jpg

I went with MDF. Home Depot cut the 4x8's the long way for me. I know I'll never keep it clean. That is one downside. Built this about a year ago. It's a relatively cheap solution that provides a lot of work space.


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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1680961857.jpg
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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1680961857.jpg

Lots of people downsizing. I've picked up butcher block benches on FB marketplace for under $100.

I like that.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1680967454.jpg

Hardwood flooring bonded to a piece of mdf counter top, with some angle iron welded up to make an edge. I think I used rocker guard on the angle iron. It's holding up quite well.

I use a piece of sacrificial polyethylene plastic (1/4"?) if I plan on beating on the top.

Everything (including the rockerguard) was free.

It's amazing what people give away on FB Marketplace/kijiji

I have a drill press on one corner, and a bench vise on the opposite.

It's mounted on some ikea base cabinets with extra feet, and it's also attached to the wall.

Yes, I've seen the flooring idea mentioned a few times. Good idea and repairable if needed. I haven't logged into Faceplant in years - I have to see if I can still remember how. A friend is checking with someone who is redoing a kitchen and might be getting rid of some butcherblock surface. Thanks.

Workbench
 

I have a WWII left over workbench that is about 3 feet by 10 feet in size. It is all hardwood (red oak?) and is heavy as it can be! The top was made by stacking 2x6 pieces together, bored holes thru front to rear and used threaded rod with a heavy spring (like a valve spring) to keep all the pieces together. This way, if the wood swells it can expand and then go back to normal when dry. No buckling! This thing is built so sturdily I think it may have been intended for the maintenance deck on an aircraft carrier! My grandfather bought it right after WWII, used it in his service station garage, gave it to my father when he sold the station. My dad used it in an appliance repair shop for many years and then he gave it to me to use in my shop. Now it has been in my family for a bit over 70 years and is still going strong! The only downside is that it take 6-8 people to move it!

Fantastic bench (we need pics) and even better story and provenance!