Don't get me wrong, I love those small cir. saws. What you are us against is the groove or dado width. Normally the blades on those saws are only 1/16" thick so many passes are needed where as if a 1/4" bit is uses, the cut width is consistent.

My son gave me his old chop saw for when I need to cut lumber.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1681668985.JPG

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1681668985.JPG

It works well enough for me in most cases. It's sledgehammer when it comes to small stuff for my train set though.:rolleyes:

I realize I'll probably be making more than one pass on a line cut. As an ex-machinist I'm familiar with making small incremental cuts. I'm kind of looking forward to this as it won't really matter how 'nice' the cut ends up as long as the veneer doesn't end up shredding at the cut.

It looks like I'd need to invest more money in a Dremel than if I were to get a small circular saw and a good blade to go with it.

If it's 1 1/2" or less I'm using this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GTEU0M4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

I have a worm drive and 2 side winders and an older battery saw (which sucks, they are much better now). But the 4 1/2" is a real treat especially with a new shoulder. There is a caveat though, the base is not like some Festool or other high quality tool. You may have to tweak it.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/DIABLO-4-1-2-in-x-36-Tooth-Fine-Finish-Circular-Saw-Blade-D0436X/203162323

https://www.harborfreight.com/58-amp-4-12-in-compact-circular-saw-56164.html

I'm thinking these two paired together will work.
Zeke - I haven't looked at your link yet.

Amazing how similar the saw you linked to Zeke and the HF one I linked to are.

I'd be inclined to use a router held against a straight edge.

https://www.harborfreight.com/carbide-tip-straight-router-bit-set-3-piece-68869.html

https://www.harborfreight.com/collections/spring-black-friday/12-hp-max-14-in-trim-router-62659.html

Along those lines...I just came upon these two items.

I have a $50 Harbor Freight mini chop saw, got it to cut 223 cases down to make .300 Blackout brass (btw - if you ever get the urge... just don't. For the cost of the saw alone you can buy 500+ once fired factory cases)

Stick to soft metals (brass), wood, plastic and you'll be fine. Try hardened steel and it won't be useful for much after. Also, when you buy look for spare blades, I'm having a pain finding one.

I just made a HF run and bought the trim router and bits. For less than $35 I'm not going to sweat how long it lasts as long as it lasts long enough to get the job done. I think it'll be safer than trying to use a circular saw, even a small one.

Thanks guys!

A straight 2x4 with heavy clamps at both ends will provide an edge for any type of saw cut.

Cut a test piece, and watch for saw blade wobble beforehand.
Not all circular blades track true.
Big teeth cuts 'off the line' can be cleaned up with a handheld sander or planner to the mark.

Take your time.

I just borrowed my SIL's Dewalt battery powered circular saw. It was light and worked great. I don't think I can ever go back to the old heavy corded saws I have. But, on the other hand, it was a small job, not like I was building an ark.

I think the trim router will work great seeing as I'm going to have to make a number of plunge cuts because of the designs.

They look the same to me.

Can't wait to see the results!

I'm trying to come up with a way to make a round base for the router so I don't have to remember which edge I need to have against a fence since the base isn't symmetrical.
I have some left over plexiglass from an old sewing table extension my wife had for one of her machines. I could route it round using the router circular function that it has. Then it's just a matter of transferring the bolt hole pattern correctly and drilling some holes, then finding longer screws to attach it.

Interesting. So you don't think a palm router would be better for this sort of thing?

Can you epoxy a large washer to the factory base? You'd have to figure out a way to center it but that's not rocket surgery. Just use a cylinder with an ID of the router collet and an OD of the ID of the washer. The cylinder could be something found like the proper size deep socket or a piece of plumbing.

Here's what I'm working with:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1681690652.JPG
As you can see, the bottom 'half' of the base isn't flush with the top nor symmetrical about the hole.