Small circular saw reco's...

[Scott Douglas]

So if I understand what you're saying Zeke, I need to add a piece to the router base that hangs over the side of the guide like the red lines I've added to the picture.

Then I could add a center line mark to it to use when locating the end of the cut.

[look 171]

No need to fine center, none of that time consuming stuff. screw a piece of 1/4" plywood to the bottom of your jig like the drawing. It doesn't even have to be flush with the outside but being anally OCD, I usually make it flush. After that, run your router bit set deep enough to cut through the plywood. Drop router and cut groove without any material under there see bottom view.

Time to cut grooves. Mark two lines (1/4") and place the jig over the stock, line up the groove with the slot you just cut from the 1/4 plywood with the router to the two marks or 1/4", clamp and cut. No mistake, no slipping and the router can be run both direction without having to worry about feed direction. The 1/4 plywood help stabilize the jig from closing up to pinch the router or expanding causing inaccurate cuts.

Start and stops blocks can be added to produce multiple extremely accurate cuts. If different width is needed, change router bit unscrew plywood and start fresh with new plywood.

[look 171]

Forgot to mention, bit must be lower to desire depth now the 1/4" plywood has been added.

[look 171]

Originally Posted by Scott Douglas

I think I understand what you're trying to say.
Can you see the red markings I put on the picture?

I think what you're saying is, put a piece of wood to the left of the router some distance down the jig, and route into the jig side pieces, perpendicular to the jig main travel direction. This will show me where the router is on the 'left' end of the cut.

Forget that metal adj. stop. It will move and its is inaccurate after few cuts. Just screw a block on top of the jig to stop the router. Two can be had, one as a starting point, the other to stop.

[Pazuzu]

Now I know why I have access to a CNC router at work!

Coulda laid 4x8 feet worth of panels down, hit "GO" and waited 20 minutes, they'd all be done!

[look 171]

Originally Posted by Pazuzu

Now I know why I have access to a CNC router at work!

Coulda laid 4x8 feet worth of panels down, hit "GO" and waited 20 minutes, they'd all be done!

I use to have a guy that would cut panels for us all day long. He has a plywood company co but decided that he wanted to get into the CNC paneling business. We bought all our plywood from him send him the specs, picked up a week later. He even edge banded it. All for a charge but it made our lives so much easier. Owner jacked up his rent by 50% so he decided to close up shop. I need to find someone else that would do this for us.

[Scott Douglas]

I got my CNC mojo going this morning and did this:



Thanks for the help everyone, I won't bore you with any more pictures of this little project.

[herr_oberst]

Nice! Looks like the whole thing just worked out perfectly.

We need to see a few of those painted and installed!

[Scott Douglas]

I lied, I will bore you with a few more pictures.
I came up with a way to use my router jig to help me locate the 'hangers' I'm going to use.
Also made a jig for drilling them on the drill press.
Just about ready for painting tomorrow.
I found that the 'hook 'n loop' system on my little sander is not hooking any more so will have to see if I can buy a replacement piece for it. Black and Decker Mega Mouse if I recall.



I had clamps holding the vice in place when I used the drill press.

[herr_oberst]

Dang, holding the work is 90 % of the work! Keep sending pictures of your pictures!

(I replaced the base of my Porter Cable r/o sander when the hook and loop wore out. I wouldn't be surprised if Black and Decker has Mouse parts for sale, too.)

[masraum]

Originally Posted by Scott Douglas

I got my CNC mojo going this morning and did this:



Thanks for the help everyone, I won't bore you with any more pictures of this little project.

Outstanding job!

[Scott Douglas]

Thanks Steve. I owe a lot of the success in how it looks to the tooling I made. Without it the lines wouldn't be nearly as straight. I really lucked out having that scrap wood laying around from the light valance I took apart.
So far on this project, the only things I've spent money on are the panels themselves and the router/bits and now paint/brushes. I even went thru my junk box of screws and came up with enough screws to put the hangers on.
I got the first coat of primer on this morning in spite of having to go to the store twice when I found my can of primer had solidified. Next time I'll check before going to the store for brushes.

[Scott Douglas]

Painting has commenced...



The router lines will be black, eventually, but I'm finding I need to do them with a better brush than the cheapy ones I'm doing the larger areas with. Getting them nice and sharp will really add to the look IMO.

[dad911]

Paint pen? Or mask off the colors and spray the grooves.

[Scott Douglas]

Interesting you should ask that @dad911.
My wife mentioned a paint pen, but I'll be danged if I know what that is, nor do the guys at the paint dept at Lowes know either.
I was thinking about what kind of brush I was going to use while painting a second coat on most of the panels this morning.
I think if I get something better than the cheap, chinese made throw-away brushes I'm using on the panels now, I can free-hand it. The brushes I'm using are not good enough unless I trim them with scissors before using them. I didn't want the hassle of cleaning them up with turpentine or such nor the hazard either, so I've been storing them 'wet' in baggies overnite. So far I've only tossed 3 out because they got hard.
Originally my wife wanted to do this project with spray paint. The masking would have been tedious at best IMO. She hand painted and taped the first ones she did and it took forever. You can't tape to wet paint.
Got a link to a 'paint pen'?

[Zeke]

You should be able to use a small diameter foam roller and the edges will be crisp. Put the bagged brushes and rollers in the fridge or a cooler with those cold packs. A brush will last maybe 3 days.

[Scott Douglas]

I'll have to take a macro shot of a groove so you can see what I'm dealing with for painting the lines.

[Zeke]

The problem with paint pens is that they are pre filled. You will have to match their colors. One of my dealers uses a gold one to touch up golf leaf.

[Scott Douglas]

IF I were to use a paint pen it'd be used only for the black lines, no color matching.

I'll go get that picture of the grooves now....

[Scott Douglas]

Here are a couple of groove pics.
As you can see, the edges aren't really crisp.