Calling Zeke

[wdfifteen]

I need some advice. My work in the VW is not going well since I'm kind of laid up, so I'm working on some of Vicki's sewing machines.
We have this 1928 Singer model 99 portable that needs to have its wooden case cleaned up. I don't want to "restore" it per se, just clean it up without damaging the finish further and I need guidance. HELP!



What can I do to improve the finish?



I'm concerned about what I can to that won't damage or remove the logo. I assume it is stenciled on.



This corner is holding together for now, but I need to do something to stabilize it.



I'm pretty sure the paint on the iron parts is lacquer. What is a good cleaner to use that won't dissolve the lacquer or remove the decoration?

[TimT]

I have a similar machine.. An Ex of mine who was into needlecrafts told me that this machine has some value.. yet it sits in one of my closets....







I wonder if scraping the loose finish on the cover then maybe boiled linseed oil? shellac?

The corner looks like someone tried to repair it previously..in the northeast.. there is a product aimed at owners trying to maintain old wooden boats...

Git Rot....

First I would use a pic, and clean all the glue used for previous repairs... then make a damn with some tape... then flood the joint with Git Rot.. and apply pressure with a band clamp...

After the glue sets sand and finish the corner...

[TimT]

And a bar clamp or two might help to close the joint

[craigster59]

If you like the bumps and bruises patina and just want to bring it up a notch, Howards is great.

[gregpark]

I would Bondo, color with paint to match, rattle can lacquer

[red 928]

[herr_oberst]

Those decals are waterslides, available new from various vendors
(Here's one example I found on Ebay, these seem stupid expensive; maybe there's others cheaper?)

Hard to tell from your pictures how bad the case is; I'd think total restoration of the bentwood cover would be the last and least desirable option, but the base obviously needs some serious correction...

[Zeke]

Depends on the level of restoration you want. Lot's of old radio guys are not wood guys and yet do pretty well with Old English Scratch Cover. That can be made at home with some BLO and some tint.

I would first pull the base together with clamps and see how it will glue up, and then glue it. I would use colored epoxy for any voids rather than bondo, but bondo can be tinted brown. Just don't use the red or blue catalyst unless it compliments your tinting method. There is no rot in the damage that I can see.

On the enameled machine itself, I would wax it. You can use black shoe polish if you wish on areas that are not stenciled. A cleaner/wax will take out the minor scratches.

0000 steel wool for chrome but vacuum well, don't blow and use a magnet to pull out stray strands. Use a tissue between the magnet and the surfaces so you don't scratch and you can see what you are getting out, if any.

Get the manual and oil all the oiling points. I have a similar model and the underside is fascinating. There are a couple dozen oiling points. Use quality light weight oil meant for delicate machines. 3 in 1 has a good rep if you don't go to the trouble of buying Singer oil. Whatever you use for fine machinery should be clear, no tint from sulphur.

[wdfifteen]

Thanks guys.
Tim - I tried to blow up the picture of your model 99 to see the serial number. Yours is a foot control which I think makes it newer than our knee-bar style. These machines aren't very valuable dollar wise.
Mike- I should have know those decals were available. Everything else for a Singer is.
Zeke - thanks. I'll ge some Old English and see how it goes. I'll glue the base up and if it is stable enough to suit me I won't mess with filling the voids. Not sure what's the best glue to use. I don't want to use Gorilla Glue because it expands and gets all over everything. I do all the maintenance on Vicki's work machines, so I've got the know how and the right Singer oil to take care of the mechanical part.

Everyone else - thanks for responding. Every bit of info helps.

Unless it's a Singer Featherweight old sewing machines aren't worth much. We got this Singer 99, a White model 8 and a really cool 50s vintage White for $25. We were going to pass on all of them but we've never seen one like the green White. It's built like a tank! So we took the package deal.

[Zeke]

Some notes on shellac: it is the panacea of refinishing. Shellac sticks to anything and won't attack underlying finishes as lacquer may do. For instance, lacquer over enamel will lift the enamel whereas the opposite is OK as is shellac.

OTOH, just about any finish can be applied over shellac being a base coat. Shellac sands and feathers nicely and can be used with fillers to build up and level a surface. You must use dewaxed shellac for the best performance under other finishes. As a stand alone finish shellac is hard to beat and you can use the wax version over itself coat after coat.

Some say shellac is to be used rather thin and not for building up. Others say that's nonsense. So beware of the different POV's. Practice makes perfect and I always have a test piece going along side any project.

Patrick, on the glue just use carpenter's yellow glue. Any brand. No need for exterior or moisture resistant. Use fresh glue if you can. Yellow glue should be tossed after a year to 18 months depending on how it's stored. Or, if you want to be able to clean up residue after you unclamp your work, use hide glue available in small bottles premixed. This glue should be tossed out after 6 to 9 months. I make batches as I need it and keep it refrigerated for up to a month. It is to be used at 140º F.

[Scott Douglas]

You got all of them for pennies on the pound.

These guys are my go-to for our Featherweight needs:

https://singer-featherweight.com/blogs/schoolhouse/dating-your-featherweight-machine

They can probably help out with the decals.

[TimT]

Not sure what's the best glue to use

I'd use something similar to Git rot... it penetrates and fills void, and unlike Gorilla glue doesn't foam up...just need to make a dam with some tape or caulk.. fill the separation. then pull it tight with clamps...If there are voids after the glue sets use wood filler..

I'm really not to concerned with the value of the machine... An Ex told me it was a Featherweight.. and I never looked into it.. looking up the s/n it was made in 1950... Still pretty impressive that it still works after 73 years.. It was my grandmothers.. so there is that..

[Scott Douglas]

Originally Posted by TimT

An Ex told me it was a Featherweight..

She was wrong, it's not.