Best Electrical Connectors For Car

[jyl]

I’m working on installing a head unit in my wife’s W211 and want to use connectors so the aftermarket wiring can be easily removed. It’s sadly not a plug and play kind of install. I bought a box of cheap “auto style connectors” and they are utter trash. So I think I need to kiss that $17.99 goodbye (I said they were cheap) and use better connectors.

What are good? I saw reference to Deutsch connectors - anyone use them?

I don’t need waterproof, heat resistant, etc - this is happening inside the center console - just want reliable, proper looking, and to not have to especially skilled to assemble the pins and etc.

[pwd72s]

Instead of screwing the wiring up yourself, why not go to a car stereo place and pay them to screw it up?

[jyl]

Originally Posted by pwd72s

Instead of screwing the wiring up yourself, why not go to a car stereo place and pay them to screw it up?

Then I’d have to pay them, and I don’t know that they’d be careful with the existing wiring. I want to be able to unplug the new stuff and plug the old stuff back in, all factory connectors undisturbed. Anyway, I went by the local go-to car audio installer and they didn’t even have the fiber optic decoder box.

My wife went there once when the Prius’s audio went out. They said it would cost $1000 to fix. I bought the amplifier used on eBay for $25 and had it fixed in half an hour. So I don’t have good feelings toward them.

Granted, this job may yet defeat me. I’m running into weird problems that I can’t figure out, even though there’s plenty of how-tos on the University of Youtube and the College of Benzworld. The combination of fiber optics and Canbus is not something I’ve dealt with before.

[Bill Douglas]

I use bullet type terminals, or hard wire it. I don't tend to use connectors unless they are already there.

I'm actually a fan of hard wiring thigs. and using proper solder.

[masraum]

Originally Posted by pwd72s

Instead of screwing the wiring up yourself, why not go to a car stereo place and pay them to screw it up?

Because this stuff isn't that complicated or hard, and unless you stumble across one of the few great guys, I could probably do a better job myself.

[masraum]

I'm pretty sure that I saw this video here a while back. IIRC, this guy's got a lot of good info in his video. If you go to the video on YT, he includes links to the specific products that he uses.

[look 171]

What wrong with the typical spade connectors with the plastic shield over the metal area? I've used them for years hooking up the cheapest to high end stereos and never had an issue, and can be pulled apart when needed. I should suggest taking a small pliers and crimp down the female end just a bit to make it impossible to get off or get the ones with the nib to keep from coming apart.

[Ayles]

I would look for an install kit. Typically you wire an adapter to the headunit that will plug directly into the factory harness. Just find the one for the head unit/car combo. Crutchfield will have exactly what you need to make it a plug and play solution with no cutting.

https://www.crutchfield.com/g_103000/Wiring-Harnesses.html?skipvs=Y

If you are set on doing it yourself I’d use crimp on connectors with shrink tube to insulate/protect the connection. Looks nice and pro that way too.

[look 171]

Originally Posted by Ayles

I would look for an install kit. Typically you wire an adapter to the headunit that will plug directly into the factory harness. Just find the one for the head unit/car combo. Crutchfield will have exactly what you need to make it a plug and play solution with no cutting.

https://www.crutchfield.com/g_103000/Wiring-Harnesses.html?skipvs=Y

If you are set on doing it yourself I’d use crimp on connectors with shrink tube to insulate/protect the connection. Looks nice and pro that way too.

Yep. all the ones I have installed used an after market adapter. Plugs right in.

[Alan A]

My toy car is all Deutsch connectors. I like them a lot - but you need the proper tools to install them or you will butcher it. Weatherpak are similar but clunkier.

[Mike Billings]

Deutsch connectors (now owned by TE) offer low cost plastic connectors with a closed (solid) barrel terminal, which is the same as the terminals in nearly all military / aerospace connectors. Deutsch DT series for example. Deutsch also makes MIL-DTL 38999 circular connectors, so they know what they are doing.

Some of their connectors have a low cost stamped (formed) terminal option to save a few pennies, but that is not nearly as reliable, according to the data. Stamped terminals are not suitable for manned flight and not suitable for my car.

The problem for me was the cost of the crimper. I use an aerospace Daniels crimper for Deutsch terminals. It's usually $500-$900 for a new crimper with a set of positioners. I use a nasty one I got on Ebay for $75. Got positioners for another $75.

The tool makes 8 crimps when you squeeze it. Amazing.



BTW now I see a Daniels crimper for $136 on Mouser, without the positioners.



Might be better to get a Deutsch crimper. I was just more used to using the Daniels.

[MBAtarga]

Was also going to recommend checking with Crutchfield. Used them in the past (although it might have been decades.)

[911 Rod]

What are the odds of ever disconnecting it?
I'd go with bare butt connectors and adhesive shrink tubbing.

[blucille]

I do link the crimp connections (and the appropriate tool) that MASRAUM shows on that video, on the right, that do a double crimp instead of the more common blue/yellow/red crimp barrels.

I found a BMW part that works extremely well:
BMW-61138353746
BMW-61138353747
BMW-61138353748
when paired with an appropriate sized wire and the correct crimp tool. And then cover with shrink wrap and done.

the fairly generic (these days) heat shrink solder barrels are actually pretty slick and easy, especially for something like radio wiring, they allow you to make a physical twist-together connection of the wiring, then slide the barrel over, and when heated with a heat gun, the solder melts and the heat shrink shrinks and provides a water tight seal. I've used these on landscape lighting with great results.

I would think as part of a roadside emergency kit, and heat with a lighter, these would be a great solution.

[911 Rod]

Solder should not be used on vehicles or anything that is moving.

[Bob Kontak]

Look up a Scosche audio adapter per Cab-o-rama.

I think this is what he means. If not he will tell me and I will advise

https://www.scosche.com/car-audio/installation

[GH85Carrera]

Originally Posted by 911 Rod

Solder should not be used on vehicles or anything that is moving.

I have soldered connecting I did on my El Camino 30 years ago. No issues whatsoever after 300,000+ miles.

Soldered and heat shrink tubing works fine. It is a car, not the space shuttle, and drive on paved roads, not the Baja 1000.

I have been using a connector in recent years that is really easy.

https://www.amazon.com/Connectors-Soldering-Waterproof-Electrical-Automotive/dp/B0BTW3RJPY/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2ZGJY1BNV84KN&keywords=solder+wire+connectors+heat+shrink&qid=1701358283&sprefix=wire+connectors+%2Caps%2C128&sr=8-4

It is a piece of tough heat shrink tubing with a low melt point solder in the middle Hit is with a heat gun, the solder melts, the tubing contracts and makes a nice water tight connection.

[blucille]

Originally Posted by GH85Carrera

I have soldered connecting I did on my El Camino 30 years ago. No issues whatsoever after 300,000+ miles.

Soldered and heat shrink tubing works fine. It is a car, not the space shuttle, and drive on paved roads, not the Baja 1000.

I have been using a connector in recent years that is really easy.

https://www.amazon.com/Connectors-Soldering-Waterproof-Electrical-Automotive/dp/B0BTW3RJPY/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2ZGJY1BNV84KN&keywords=solder+wire+connectors+heat+shrink&qid=1701358283&sprefix=wire+connectors+%2Caps%2C128&sr=8-4

It is a piece of tough heat shrink tubing with a low melt point solder in the middle Hit is with a heat gun, the solder melts, the tubing contracts and makes a nice water tight connection.

So many of the factory porsche connectors are soldered, the main 14-pin connector at the relay panel in the engine compartment, for example. not a lot of failures that I'm aware of.

[Bob Kontak]

Nick says he wants me to post this as well.

https://www.amazon.com/BOOYES-Optical-Decoder-Stereo-Mercedes/dp/B089YVDTNW/ref=sr_1_1?crid=33HFNVN06IVSO&keywords=fiber+optic+box+decoder+most+bus+based+sy stems+benz-e+w211&qid=1701362388&sprefix=fiber+optic+box+decoder+most+bus+based+sys tems+benz-e+w211%2Caps%2C114&sr=8-1

[fastfredracing]

Originally Posted by 911 Rod

Solder should not be used on vehicles or anything that is moving.

Quite a few manufactures say no soldering and supply crimp connectors with pigtails ,and harness repair kits. VAG is one of these .