Thread lock blue or red?

[DWBOX2000]

Rennline wheel studs, which thread lock do I use? Thread lock blue or red? Studs are 60 and 45mm.

Thanks

[Sooner or later]

Data sheet

[Pazuzu]

I would think that wheel hubs might get hot enough to melt the blue, which would make it worthless.

[Shaun @ Tru6]

You want these to stay in forever, so red.

[DWBOX2000]

Weird thing is, both say high strength and both say 27100. I did buy the blue a few years back. Same manufacturer. Both permanex threadlocker.
Fortunately I only did the rear since the front studs were ridiculously long. I guess I’ll remove and do over again.
I would think instructions would

[DWBOX2000]

Interesting but red use to be blue, so my blue is fine. Unfortunately i guess the stuff expires so I guess I’m replacing anyhow.

[A930Rocket]

Red.

[speeder]

Think of red as for stuff that absolutely has to stay tight and is never removed and blue for fasteners that need to stay tight but are removed such as brake caliper bolts that come out every time you do a brake job.

[DWBOX2000]

I’ll try and pop them out with hand tools. I’m assuming if they don’t come out without heat, I’m good to go,
Someone said studs were wear items that should be replaced every couple years. Why I was reluctant to use red. I’m not racing, I just prefer the look and I seem to take my rims off often.

[DWBOX2000]

And thanks everyone. I appreciate the help.

[DWBOX2000]

I talked to parts specialist. I was told to use blue, not the red so they can come out if needed.
I drove to work, wheels still on. 😀

[john70t]

(yer maybe asking the wrong forum)
On the track, the blue might have a lower melting point. etc.
As a DD, this would not matter. And the wheel studs could eventually get damaged and need replacing perhaps.

I notice the webpage does not suggest viscosity/slip factor/whatever for (+/-) adjusting toque specs.

Some customers might dip it, some smear it across the threads, and some might add a few drops top or bottom...

[aschen]

I am normally religiously against red or high temp variants of lock tight but I would use it for the studs here.

The loctite isnt to keep the the studs secure in normal operation. The bolt stretch/clamp load does that. It is to make sure they dont disengage any threads when loosening the lug nuts


You can use no locktite if you want as long as you make sure the studs are full engaged in the hub everytime you loosen a lugnut.

The danger of course is if you un torque a lug net and the stud comes out a couple threads unnoticed

[john70t]

I'm guessing don't use any type of Locktite on the deep end of the stud.

Use the red ONLY on the outer-most threads which would expose it to torch removal heat.
(If replacement became an issue.)

[Shaun @ Tru6]

Forget the loctite, maybe TIG the new studs to the rotors.

[aschen]

Or machine a shouldered spline and press fit them from the back


Glares at euro automakers

[john70t]

lol. and the wheels. they can replace tires and balance while on.

Double or quadruple-nut when installing spreads the thread load. Not too tight.

[Bob Kontak]

Originally Posted by aschen

The danger of course is if you un torque a lug net and the stud comes out a couple threads unnoticed

They are threaded which is not everyday stuff. Thanks for this. I was picturing a spline.

I would use Red Loctite. It says 450F to release. 450F you can warm to with a butane lighter (given time). A bernzomatic torch would do that in no time.

I would not consider Blue (at first blush - just talking).

[A930Rocket]

^^^ I use a propane torch to heat up the base of the stud and hub, to release the red loctite. Just takes a minute or two.

[john70t]

Apply heat from the back of the wheel hub instead?

There is a general lack of information regarding this product's use.
I wish the Mfr supplied better info.