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jyl jyl is online now
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Originally Posted by Cajundaddy View Post
Alright, gentle suggestions from a guy with exactly one mini-split install in Oceanside CA:

Because of the vintage nature of your home which is quite elegant, I agree with hiding the outdoor compressor units as best you can. Sticking on the siding like a barnacle is sure to disappoint so give this some thought.

Also, due to the ceiling height and custom moulding this install screams for ceiling registers. If I hung a wall register across the moulding my wife would give birth to a live baby cow for all to see. I think the mini's can work here and will transform your comfort levels but you need to make them disappear as much as possible. It is a clash of cultures that should be addressed. The wall registers can be hung lower like below a window as long as there is good airflow but I would still greatly favor ceiling registers for a completely clean look. I assume you have a boiler and radiators for heat which is period correct. Ceiling registers would blend into the room great.

This might be a really good project for a pro with years of experience making modern mini-splits disappear into a vintage home environment. A very different job requiring finesse compared with adding a mini to a garage or workshop.
Well, we'll see if my wife calves . . . I agree a pro would be best but for money/time issues I'm DIY'ing this.

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Old 05-05-2025, 11:57 AM
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I would personally be very cautious about making any sort of surround to hide the outdoor unit. Messing with the airflow across the outdoor coil can affect both heating and cooling. Painting the outdoor unit to better blend in would by my first preference.

You mentioned flaring when you need to extend/shorten line sets. If you don't have a lot of experience in flaring copper, I'd recommend getting one and practicing a bit. A fair number of the leaks I've found on systems in the past have been at flare joints.
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Last edited by cabmandone; 05-05-2025 at 02:31 PM..
Old 05-05-2025, 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by jyl View Post
well, we'll see if my wife calves . . . I agree a pro would be best but for money/time issues i'm diy'ing this.
Hehe, I get it. Best wishes!
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Old 05-05-2025, 04:20 PM
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Painting the outdoor units seems like the winning idea. You guys are right, I like the way my house looks and don’t want more baby livestock than necessary.
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Old 05-05-2025, 04:22 PM
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I finally got started. Today all I’m doing is hanging the indoor units.

To avoid cutting the molding, and make this an easily reversible install, I used 3/4” plywood to space the mounting point out from the wall and catch studs.

My wife inspected the initial hung unit and her water has not broken, so I’m ok. She is surprisingly uncaring about mechanical and systems stuff, the baby cows emerge over a vase thoughtlessly repositioned or an improperly fluffed pillow.

So of the two, I’m the one more bugged by the gap between unit and wall. Later on, I’ll find some easy way to fill or cover up that void.
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Old 05-18-2025, 11:48 AM
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The lines will go through the closet to reach the exterior wall, and I’d like to fasten them up to the closet ceiling, protected and out of the way. So I’ll be adding a condensate pump to this room, and one other. I can power the pump from the indoor unit.

Question: the hi and low pressure lines don’t care about the slope of lateral runs, correct? I.e. they can leave the indoor unit and go up before they exit the exterior wall and turn down?
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Last edited by jyl; 05-18-2025 at 04:49 PM..
Old 05-18-2025, 02:22 PM
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Also question - I’m seeing minisplit line sets (not pre-charged) at prices ranging from $270 for 25’ to $170 for 50’. Some have flares and nuts, others don’t, but I’m planning to cut to length and flare myself anyway.

Is there really a predictable difference in line quality between brands and sources? I am inclined to buy the cheapest linesets. I need four so the price diff can be $400 ish.
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Old 05-19-2025, 02:00 PM
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Ok your indoor register install doesn't suck I might get "the face" installing it there but calving would probably be avoided. Not sure about line set differences other than possibly different diameters or wall thickness. Copper is expensive so measure twice, buy once.

My understanding is that slope matters for the condensate line to drain properly but not the copper lines. Your install instruction sheet should spell out any requirements or limitations.
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Old 05-19-2025, 02:18 PM
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Timely thread. I’m about to embark on this for the rental house. I’m going to use a ducted air handler in the attic so I can use one unit for a bedroom and bathroom.

Have you shopped Linesets from pioneer or Senville? They both get good reviews online and seem to have great prices.
Old 05-21-2025, 09:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jyl View Post
Also question - I’m seeing minisplit line sets (not pre-charged) at prices ranging from $270 for 25’ to $170 for 50’. Some have flares and nuts, others don’t, but I’m planning to cut to length and flare myself anyway.

Is there really a predictable difference in line quality between brands and sources? I am inclined to buy the cheapest linesets. I need four so the price diff can be $400 ish.
With your line sets being encased, as you said you planned to do, I think almost any line set will do. One of the main differences I've found in different line sets is the insulation. Some are "easy pull", which cost more, where others get hung up on the insulation. If insulation is equal for each, buy the lowest priced IMO.
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Old 05-21-2025, 10:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jyl View Post
…I’m thinking of fastening the lines directly to the siding, then having a local sheet metal shop make me simple folded-metal covers from sheet copper, with flanges that I can just nail or screw to the siding. Some caulk and I figure that will be weather tight enough, look good, weather to an obtrusive brown, and be a little bit classy. Good / bad idea ????
I like the copper idea!

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Originally Posted by jyl View Post
That’s not horrible. Plus, no baby bovines braying about… winning!
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Old 05-21-2025, 10:28 AM
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Talking about minisplits: How good are they at heating, really ?

I got them in the new-old house... alongside old style radiators with a fuel burner! In summer, the minisplits were A-OK to cool down the house so I guess they were sized and distributed properly.

Emboldened by that discovery and not loving the smell of the old fuel heater, we decided to get rid of the old fuel burner, the ecopper pipes all over, the radiators, and get more room and less smell.. Figured we could use the mini splits for heat...

Then when the few colder winter days arrived we found we needed extra electric heaters here and there, because the mini splits struggled to heat the place "properly".. To be clear, not temperature wise but distribution wise... not sure it's "not enough of them" more like they are placed high up, when they shoot AC no issue, that goes down, but when they shoot warm air, it rises, and while I was not "cold" walking around the house, I could feel a significant temp difference from my ankles to my face and more chill sitting down, as if the high up mini split air was not reaching down low before it rose.. Gonna have to figure out a solution.

Last edited by Deschodt; 05-23-2025 at 10:16 AM..
Old 05-23-2025, 10:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deschodt View Post
Talking about minisplits: How good are they at heating, really ?

I got them in the new-old house... alongside old style radiators with a fuel burner! In summer, the minisplits were A-OK to cool down the house so I guess they were sized and distributed properly.

Emboldened by that discovery and not loving the smell of the old fuel heater, we decided to get rid of the old fuel burner, the ecopper pipes all over, the radiators, and get more room and less smell.. Figured we could use the mini splits for heat...

Then when the few colder winter days arrived we found we needed extra electric heaters here and there, because the mini splits struggled to heat the place "properly".. To be clear, not temperature wise but distribution wise... not sure it's "not enough of them" more like they are placed high up, when they shoot AC no issue, that goes down, but when they shoot warm air, it rises, and while I was not "cold" walking around the house, I could feel a significant temp difference from my ankles to my face and more chill sitting down, as if the high up mini split air was not reaching down low before it rose.. Gonna have to figure out a solution.
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Old 05-25-2025, 08:30 PM
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Some s-l-o-w progress to report. Actually it was super slow until a bout of 95F lit a fire under my butt, and now I am seriously working on it.

Here is the north side, master bdrm on left and daughter’s bedroom on right.

Decided on copper line covers, but won’t install those until the system is verified working. They’ll be like square section, about 8” wide, shiny for a while. They will go all the way to the eaves, to look better. People might think they are gutter downspouts.



Cut lines to length at the outdoor unit and flared. I got what seems like a great flaring tool, the flaring cone moves eccentrically, and I put a dab of Nylog on it before starting the flare.



Here is the south side, in progress. I plan to finish the lines here tomorrow. Access is a real pain, so much stuff to work around. Including the electrical service. I don’t love the idea of working right by and probably accidentally touching the electric service cables, who knows if the insulation is cracked, so I think I’ll drape them with a moving blanket or similar.



I had to buy a 28’ ladder as my 20’ was way too short. With the spreader, and tied off to the house, the ladder is very stable. I didn’t like using both hands to torque the connections with none holding onto the ladder, but it worked. I’ve only dropped one wrench, and it wasn’t the torque wrench.

When I go back up to install the covers, I’ll do a little paint touch up “while in there”.
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Last edited by jyl; 06-14-2025 at 05:44 PM..
Old 06-14-2025, 05:36 PM
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When I did the original PVC conduit ten years ago for the garage subpanel, I didn’t have an EMT bender. I think PVC conduit screams “DYIer” and I do have an EMT bender now. But I wanted the minisplit conduit to “match” the other one, so more DYI PVC conduit. Paint to come of course.



I took the time to cut the conduit supports to fit the siding which is wonky there.



The photo of the wiring is so I can review it for mistakes after a beer.



I really regret not using my head and leaving more clearance - it’s a pain to work on the connections with the bumpout so close.
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Old 06-22-2025, 05:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jyl View Post


When I did the original PVC conduit ten years ago for the garage subpanel, I didn’t have an EMT bender. I think PVC conduit screams “DYIer” and I do have an EMT bender now. But I wanted the minisplit conduit to “match” the other one, so more DYI PVC conduit. Paint to come of course.



I took the time to cut the conduit supports to fit the siding which is wonky there.



The photo of the wiring is so I can review it for mistakes after a beer.



I really regret not using my head and leaving more clearance - it’s a pain to work on the connections with the bumpout so close.

Very well done! I love the support you made, 99% would have just pipe clamped to the house.

If you haven't, I would seal the support mounting surface so moisture doesn't get in between and stay there.
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Old 06-23-2025, 02:21 AM
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I think the clamps are supposed to retain the cable on the out core, to hold them up and prevent strain on the connections. I believe the wires should be clamped on the blue section below.

Plan B might be a zip tie above the clamp, the red lines.

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Old 06-23-2025, 04:14 AM
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That's a heck of an exhaust fan. How big is the stove?
that was my question as well!
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Old 06-23-2025, 04:56 AM
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Range not big - 36” - but I wanted flexibility to put in a 48” someday. And to make a lot of smoke, steam, etc. Here I’m tossing cold water onto a hot oily pan to test the ventilation. Or I’m making potstickers.
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Old 06-23-2025, 05:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1990C4S View Post
I think the clamps are supposed to retain the cable on the out core, to hold them up and prevent strain on the connections. I believe the wires should be clamped on the blue section below.

Plan B might be a zip tie above the clamp, the red lines.

Ah dummy (me). Thank you, I’ll fix that. There are strain reliefs/loom clamps where the cables enter the enclosure cover, but it would look better if the internal clamps were used too.

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Old 06-23-2025, 06:44 AM
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