Need Construction Advice - Installing Outlets in Existing Wall

[Tidybuoy]

I didn't do anything last night. I worked on a different project - I will tackle this tonight or this week for sure.

[Zeke]

Originally Posted by JavaBrewer

If no cabinets are in I think you would be more efficient to just remove the drywall, address what is needed, then screw in new drywall. Go big with the removal and the larger replacement pieces are easier.

I did this kind of thing for a living for 50 years. It's always amusing to see the various answers. For instance, the one I quoted mentioned drywall and yet the OP stated it was lath and plaster.

For sure there are many ways to skin a cat. Placing another piece of wood in the cavity is not a bad idea, but just how is vague, so far. One thing to note is the plaster keys inside a L&P wall that you really don't want to break. The net dimension inside between the keys could be as little as 2.5 inches.

The one type of customer that more often that not that had suggestions on how to go about a task was usually an engineer. Just like doctors and lawyers, I avoided working for them.

Now there is really no absolute necessity to bore this hole straight in line with the studs. Romex (or NM-B as it is properly known) will snake though an angled hole. It will take some lube to do so.

It was not mentioned that many times once a hole is drilled in wood, a standard 2 flute twist bit can be rotated to widen the hole even giving it a "mouth."

I can think of half a dozen ways to fish a pull line into some very peculiar situations. If Jeff's (look171) suggestion is used there will be much less work running the cable. Likely the time and aggravation saved will be a lot more than a 2" patch.

Back in the days when wallpaper was popular I faced many situations where the wall surface could not be disturbed. So some method of getting through the various fire stops, blocking and bracing needed to be employed. In my days as a door and window contractor I did a lot of window opening cut-downs to install an exterior door. Almost every one had an electrical cable running under the window. Since an exterior light is required at all entries and the cable had to be reconnected, I can't count how many times I had to cut in an exterior light box and an interior switch which facilitated restoring that circuit. Of course there is blocking at every window both sides. I can say with confidence that I know how to do this and quickly. The goal was to complete each of these jobs in one day with no touch up required. That's exactly how it went down 99% of the time.

By the time these discussions have come to a reasonable conclusion I would have been done, paid and gone.

You might find this thread interesting: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/zekes-old-house-wiring-tip-1.256898/

[look 171]

Originally Posted by Zeke

I did this kind of thing for a living for 50 years. It's always amusing to see the various answers. For instance, the one I quoted mentioned drywall and yet the OP stated it was lath and plaster.

For sure there are many ways to skin a cat. Placing another piece of wood in the cavity is not a bad idea, but just how is vague, so far. One thing to note is the plaster keys inside a L&P wall that you really don't want to break. The net dimension inside between the keys could be as little as 2.5 inches.

The one type of customer that more often that not that had suggestions on how to go about a task was usually an engineer. Just like doctors and lawyers, I avoided working for them.

Now there is really no absolute necessity to bore this hole straight in line with the studs. Romex (or NM-B as it is properly known) will snake though an angled hole. It will take some lube to do so.

It was not mentioned that many times once a hole is drilled in wood, a standard 2 flute twist bit can be rotated to widen the hole even giving it a "mouth."

I can think of half a dozen ways to fish a pull line into some very peculiar situations. If Jeff's (look171) suggestion is used there will be much less work running the cable. Likely the time and aggravation saved will be a lot more than a 2" patch.

Back in the days when wallpaper was popular I faced many situations where the wall surface could not be disturbed. So some method of getting through the various fire stops, blocking and bracing needed to be employed. In my days as a door and window contractor I did a lot of window opening cut-downs to install an exterior door. Almost every one had an electrical cable running under the window. Since an exterior light is required at all entries and the cable had to be reconnected, I can't count how many times I had to cut in an exterior light box and an interior switch which facilitated restoring that circuit. Of course there is blocking at every window both sides. I can say with confidence that I know how to do this and quickly. The goal was to complete each of these jobs in one day with no touch up required. That's exactly how it went down 99% of the time.

By the time these discussions have come to a reasonable conclusion I would have been done, paid and gone.

You might find this thread interesting: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/zekes-old-house-wiring-tip-1.256898/

Yep.

[look 171]

I know lots of people don't want to open up walls and are afraid to patch. Sometimes, that's the easiest solution. Getting a wire through a blind, small hole is difficult and frustrating. A hold saw will and should not screw up the lath behind there because of the blocking. Small patch and be done with it in couple hours. If you must drill through, get a augur bit and start drilling at an angle and straighten it as the bits pulls you through. That's if you have the room or long enough bit to do it. Many times, and I assume a wire is coming through the top plates to avoid patching?