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Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: bottom left corner of the world
Posts: 22,820
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If the fence that comes with your tablesaw is a bit flimsy you can glamp the other end with a C-clamp.
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Brew Master
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I'm going to pick up a Delta 36-725. I plan to get the 52" fence rail kit for it. For now it'll cut everything I want to cut with it, and will do it better than the cheap saw I've been using.
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Nick |
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I built my kitchen cabinets with a used Delta saw like the original post. It was plenty for me. The biggest recommendation I have is to use Forrest Blades. They're crazy expensive but you almost don't have to sand the cut edge. And they recondition them so you don't have to keep buying new ones but I did my whole kitchen on the first blade I bought without even getting it reconditioned.
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2014 Cayman S (track rat w/GT4 suspension) 1979 930 (475 rwhp at 0.95 bar) |
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
Posts: 37,920
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Brew Master
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You can see in the pic that the top is a bit rusty. I had to put a bit of work into cleaning the cast top. I bought some Minwax Paste Finishing Wax and applied after I got things cleaned up. I checked to make sure the blade was square to the table and that the fence was squared as well. I adjusted the fence guides because the PO didn't have them adjusted properly and the fence was rubbing the table. In hindsight, I should have probably bought one of the saws from one of the sellers who did woodworking. Probably would have saved me some time in adjusting things. I'm planning to buy some 2" square tubing to make a solid 72" fence guide but that won't be until afterI'm done with my porch project. After seeing what the fence guide is, I decided I could buy the steel and drill the holes to mount it for a lot less than buying the Delta guide kit.
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Nick Last edited by cabmandone; 10-22-2025 at 05:07 PM.. |
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 17,493
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Bad bearings are one thing but there's an easy way to check runout on the arbor. Take a pen and stick it on the center of the arbor or shaft. Most of them have a center point on it. Do it with the saw on and of course NO blade. You can feel easily if the arbor is out or even if bearings are bad.
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 17,493
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Brew Master
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I just think it'll be handy. I think at 72, using the fence on the left, I'll be able to support an 8' sheet and cut pieces to whatever size I want.
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Nick |
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Kantry Member
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: N.S. Can
Posts: 6,910
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When I built our house, I was using a little Craftsman saw. My kitchen and bathroom cabinets aren't fancy, but they have served for 41 years. I upgraded 20 years (or so) ago with a Rockwell which came out of a commercial shop. They were making room for another 220 v unit. It struggles a bit with long rips in hardwood or thick material, but it has extensions which allow me to cut a full sheet of ply when I have to. Usually though, if a full sheet needs to be ripped, I will use a fence and skill saw.
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Best Les My train of thought has been replaced by a bumper car. |
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Location: outta here
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Meanwhile, a pic of the saw table all clean and looking like it should. I've used it a few times today and I'm really liking it so far!
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Nick |
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 17,493
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Are you talking aobut clamping the tubing to make the 72" cut? There's a lot to fight there. The friction and weight would be your two major issue if cutting all by yourself. If you aren't use to doing it by yourself, use a Skilsaw. Its easier and much more accurate. |
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Nick |
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