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Latest Thoughts On Fences
Want to build a privacy fence, 8 feet, only about 60 linear feet.
Seeking to screen vision but admit sunlight for gardening, so thinking about translucent fiberglass or poly carbonate panels, probably corrugated, kind of like you might use for a greenhouse or patio roof. Are you building your fences with wood posts and rails? Or are you using metal posts and rails now? If metal, are you bolting or welding things together? I'd like to build this and never think about it again.
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1989 3.2 Carrera coupe; 1988 Westy Vanagon, Zetec; 1986 E28 M30; 1994 W124; 2004 S211 What? Uh . . . “he” and “him”? |
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Fences make good neighbors.
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Ayo Irpin, Ukraine!
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Santa Cruz, CA
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I used 4x6 redwood posts on a neighbor privacy fence that is about 100’. That was 25 yrs ago. That allowed me to build the panels between and in a way that a whole panel could be removed and then reinstalled. Other reason was the cantilevered trellis sections above the fence panels. Glad I built it that way because 4yrs ago, decided to change the fence style while reusing those 4x6 posts. Removed the original panels (gave to my eldest for garden landscaping screening) and installed a more modern style. Posts were still solid. That fence will outlive me I’m sure.
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I use metal posts and bolted connections.
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Back in the saddle again
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I mean, optimistically I might have two decades left to care.
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1989 3.2 Carrera coupe; 1988 Westy Vanagon, Zetec; 1986 E28 M30; 1994 W124; 2004 S211 What? Uh . . . “he” and “him”? |
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Join Date: Mar 2003
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The poly panels are a great idea, about 70 bucks each for a 4x8 last I bought some-twinwall. (to create removable panels for a screen porch, move my tropicals in over the winter). Corrugated are likely cheaper.
PT posts will easily do 20 years, particularly if you set them in gravel or concrete to keep ground moisture away. Keep soil from the base as well. You could run them thru a dado and groove them for the panels, or just add 1x strips and drop them in.
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You'll need to block the top and bottoms well, meaning capture them in more than a dado as they will flex in the wind a lot. I have them on a patio cover and ran a row of self sealing roofing screws at the 4 foot center line. I'd consider a middle horizontal brace for an 8' fence using polycarbonate.
If you look around you might find some translucent flat fiberglass panels that would create a very cool MCM look. ![]() This pic described these as poly. I have no idea where you would source those. But, honestly, if those are poly it looks flimsy to me. |
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Wow I can't imagine trying to keep those clean. I wonder how they change color over time as well.
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Quote:
It's available in various thicknesses, the 10mm is considerably more rigid than the 8. I have the 8 for my sunroom panels, and they don't flex much even in gusts, but they're more protected than a fence would be. They're uv treated and pretty stable for 10yrs or so. Because they're not transparent you can just hose them if needed and they look fine.
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I like the look of that MCM-ish fence. Easy to hose off. Easy to replace a panel. Allows plants to get sun.
Okay then, 4x4 posts with strips and rails to retain panels of 10 mm translucent polycarbonate. How about pouring concrete piers with metal post bases bolted on, so that even the wood posts are easy to replace?
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1989 3.2 Carrera coupe; 1988 Westy Vanagon, Zetec; 1986 E28 M30; 1994 W124; 2004 S211 What? Uh . . . “he” and “him”? |
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^^^Yes. I just did the concrete with metal brackets and bolted PT 4x4 to them so that I could replace posts if needed. (I won't).
No idea about panel materials. |
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Sheer strength of the posts will be a problem with 60' and 8' high.
High winds would knock the entire thing over like a sail, if just bolted to the top of a sonotube. (Unless triangle-braced. Which would look ugly and take up space. Those could be the ramps to allow flowering vines to creep to the top and along it though) Probably need 4x6 or 6x6 posts, or maybe every other one even larger which would break up the long surface visually. The 'hack might be to embed a steel 'T' into each pored sonotube and brace in place while drying. That would bridge the strength gap between pillar and post. It seems difficult, requires precise laser measurements to the 1/4", easy to screw up, and would not be as strong as a single piece of continuous lumber. Another hack might be to waterproof the outside of the sonotube and put one of those round skirts around each base. The rain is shed outside of it and doesn't even get to to the porous concrete.
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Meanwhile other things are still happening. |
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Meanwhile other things are still happening. |
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Quote:
Been thinking about the wind load issue. I could stagger the panels so wind can pass through. Don’t care if a cat can get through, this is mostly visual screening.
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1989 3.2 Carrera coupe; 1988 Westy Vanagon, Zetec; 1986 E28 M30; 1994 W124; 2004 S211 What? Uh . . . “he” and “him”? |
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Bland
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The 8 year old in me wants to create a thread called ‘Latest Thoughts on Feces’…
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Baby Poo Yellow?
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I suspect the panels would blow out before the posts shear.
The twinwall is more rigid than single wall, but more costly. Flex would be less of an issue. Wouldn't be cheap though-the panels alone would run 1500 or more. Figure this could be a $6500 fence if someone else did the labor...
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