Pelican Parts Forums - need to make a cabinet ⅛" more narrow

Pelican Parts Forums (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/)

- Off Topic Discussions (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/off-topic-discussions/)

- - need to make a cabinet ⅛" more narrow - possible? (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/off-topic-discussions/1186734-need-make-cabinet-more-narrow-possible.html)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scott Douglas (Post 12571354)

I've got some 80 grit belts for my dad's old belt sander that could take that down so fast it'd make your head spin.
You are taking it off the side that goes up against the wall to the left, not the stove side, correct?
There's room for error there if so.

Exactly, I'm taking it off of the hidden side that, if this works, will be screwed up against the cabinet next to it. This is the rough drawing that I made for the cabinet guy. I'm looking to shave where the red line is.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1764555755.jpg

I only need the front edge to be mostly straight, but not perfect since that will end up being screwed and then caulked to the larger cabinet and then painted.

Quote:

Originally Posted by gregpark (Post 12571358)

I've done it. Marked my lines with a sharpie and used a power planer for the face frame of the cabinet and my 4½" angle grinder for the granite. The granite went slower than the wood but nothing was too painful

Great, since I might need to end up trimming the edge of the stone too.

(needed to be said, but that is one fine retro stove you have there)
Get more than one Gas/CO alarms. Check all connections with the bubbly twice.

Cut the wall instead of the cabinet.

Quote:

Originally Posted by look 171 (Post 12571367)

No. You will be amaze at how well it remove the materials. We use the plane and belt sander to scribe many projects.

The task here is to remove a calculated amount each and every pass, roughness aside. Accurate amount is a very loose term here as long as you can take a different cut and not over the same planed path then it should accurate enough. Most plane will remover up to 1/16 materials at each pass. It can be set to 1/32 to not stress the tool or blades. Buy an extra set of blades if available and you will use the plane on other projects. It should do the entire side without issues. Personally, I would remove 3/16 near the back for less fighting with stove and everything else back there.

Cheap ply or imported plywood? Look at the top layer of veneer from the edge. It looks to be some type of Birch or Maple from Asia, more then likely made in Viet Nam or Indonesia. The last ply or veneer is literally paper thin and it often comes off by peeling with one's finger nail. Its inexpensive compared to a domestic (shop) Maple, at half the cost. We don't use it. Call back on a 30k kitchen cabinet job would be a nightmare due to de-lamination of a piece of plywood. No thanks.

Yes. I'm sure that's exactly right. I gave the guy a design with rough measurements, and I told him "these are NOT the exact measurements that you need to use. The cabinet on the right needs to fit the refrigerator (provided him with the technical drawing for the fridge), and then I want the other large cabinet to have the same outside dimensions an the refrigerator." We discussed it, he seemed to completely understand. Then, he made the cabinet for the refrigerator the size of the measurements on my drawing, so too small. (I told him multiple times and he understood). Then he ended up making the other cabinet that was fairly complex the same size, so that was also too small, so he had to remake that cabinet too. He ended up making 2 copies of both cabinets and the second versions, while the right size seemed to have had several corners cut and weren't as good as the first copies.

Quote:

Originally Posted by look 171 (Post 12571372)

There's plenty of room or material to be removed so don't be afraid to plow the plane through it. Its 3/4 (sorta)

What you must watch for is nails if the cabinet is made with dados for the shelf or rabbited for the bottom. Often a nail is shot to keep everything in place upon glue cure.

Yes, there are nails from a nail gun in the cabinet. Fortunately, they are visible.

I wish my rough drawings looked that good!

Quote:

Originally Posted by masraum (Post 12571373)

…This is the rough drawing that I made for the cabinet guy. I'm looking to shave where the red line is.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1764555755.jpg…..

Quote:

Originally Posted by john70t (Post 12571378)

(needed to be said, but that is one fine retro stove you have there)
Get more than one Gas/CO alarms. Check all connections with the bubbly twice.

Thanks! It's a 1951 Chambers model 61C. We just bought it Friday. I bought it from an 85 year old man. His family moved into a new home in 1952 when he was 12, and the stove was installed in the new home. The stove had been in the same kitchen since then. It is in better shape than probably most 10 or 20 year old stoves in homes today. It's shocking how nice it is. It's not perfect, but it's in better shape than most 73 year olds.

The old guy told my wife that they "had a woman that came and cooked every day". And there's a small room off of the garage that was the bathroom for the help (segregated bathroom). That's just not the sort of thing that you hear about these days.

Yep, safety first for sure!

Quote:

Originally Posted by masraum (Post 12571385)

Yes, there are nails from a nail gun in the cabinet. Fortunately, they are visible.

Use a nail punch to set the nails deeper. You don’t want to tear up your blades. Maybe mark them with a sharpie to make sure you avoid them

You don't want to hear this but the other option is to remove the stone top, bang apart the cabinet sides, cut the bottom shelf and tie rails 3/16. glue and nail it back, reinstall. Since the top is off, you can get it cut if needed at a shop for a case of beer. Now the damn drawer doesn't fit. Get the damn plane.

The mechanic in me says, put the cabinet in the freezer all night and shrink it. ::D :D

Quote:

Originally Posted by A930Rocket (Post 12571396)

Use a nail punch to set the nails deeper. You don’t want to tear up your blades. Maybe mark them with a sharpie to make sure you avoid them

Yes, 100%

Quote:

Originally Posted by look 171 (Post 12571399)

You are correct! I don't want to hear that. LOL! The stone seems to be glued down to the cabinet quite firmly. If I end up having to remove the stone, I was thinking that I'd end up using an oscillating multitool. I'm more concerned with saving the stone than anything else (although I'm not completely sure that I couldn't manage to duplicate the stone).
Yep, I'll be getting the planer.

Quote:

Originally Posted by JackDidley (Post 12571403)

The mechanic in me says, put the cabinet in the freezer all night and shrink it. ::D :D

LOL! If only!

Quote:

Originally Posted by A930Rocket (Post 12571396)

Use a nail punch to set the nails deeper. You don’t want to tear up your blades. Maybe mark them with a sharpie to make sure you avoid them

21 spots marked with a sharpie. I measured a couple and the nailheads are currently set by 1/8" so I'll need to set them a bit more.

You will just need a programmable 500k watt overhead laser with automated feed-belt to accommodate 40+" wide feed system.
Leveling base platform extra.
(might need a few extra power lines roped)

Wife will be delighted with the new toy

Quote:

Originally Posted by masraum (Post 12571406)

Yes, 100%
…The stone seems to be glued down to the cabinet quite firmly. If I end up having to remove the stone, I was thinking that I'd end up using an oscillating multitool. I'm more concerned with saving the stone than anything else (although I'm not completely sure that I couldn't manage to duplicate the stone).
Yep, I'll be getting the planer.

Chances are, the top is siliconed to the cabinet, but can be a bear to take off. An oscillating size is a good idea. Start from the back and the sides to loosen it up, so you don’t damage the front.

Quote:

Originally Posted by look 171 (Post 12571367)

Look at the top layer of veneer from the edge. It looks to be some type of Birch or Maple from Asia, more then likely made in Viet Nam or Indonesia. The last ply or veneer is literally paper thin and it often comes off by peeling with one's finger nail. Its inexpensive compared to a domestic (shop) Maple, at half the cost.

Yep
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1764559184.jpg

Quote:

Originally Posted by john70t (Post 12571419)

Don't forget the new shop to house all of the new gear!

Quote:

Originally Posted by A930Rocket (Post 12571420)

Hopefully, I can thin the cabinet and won't have to remove it at all!

Surely a big press could make the range 1/8” narrower :->

I’m waiting eagerly to see how this turns out!

Quote:

Originally Posted by jyl (Post 12571428)

Surely a big press could make the range 1/8” narrower :->

I’m waiting eagerly to see how this turns out!

LOL! Or maybe just squeeze it into the slot!

You and me both!

Quote:

Originally Posted by look 171 (Post 12571399)

Remove and re-install the stone counter top? you'd be replacing it (possibly along with the back splash which sits on top). The stone is most likely glued down with blobs of epoxy for fine tune leveling upon install. It will come out...but in pieces. And no need to destroy the cabinet (which you would by banging it apart). Typically the face frame of the cabinet protrudes into the stove opening a half inch proud of the body of the cabinet. The fastest and easiest way of widening the existing opening with no risk is to shave the face frame and grind the edge of the top all done on one side of the opening