Attic pull down staircase question. - Page 2

fastpat · 02-06-2006, 07:56 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Moses
I need to get one of these to install for access to good storage space above my garage. All the ones I see on the internet and look like ladders rather than the pull-down stairs I'm looking for. Any ideas?

As a part of the remodeling we're doing to this house, I asked the architect to add a Bessler pull down stairs to be located in our den. Right now, we only have a access hatch which is only the width of one rafter space. Bessler products are among the best, but as you can see, they're not cheap. These don't fold, and can hold an 800 pound load.

We're having attic trusses designed, so we can replace some of the W style trusses to open up storage space that is now wasted. I expect we'll add about 800 square feet or more space to the house for storage of things you don't want ready access to, but don't want in a garage environment either.

Moses · 02-06-2006, 07:57 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by stevepaa
I would suggest the widest one you can find. I've done three.

I thought about that. Going through a 24" opening sort of limits what you can haul up into the attic. Roughing out a bigger opening shouldn't be too much more difficult.

madmmac · madmmac's Garage

When you say scissor brace are you meaning manufactured trusses? If you are, they need to be designed and ordered specifcally for attic storage...most homes are not.

Most are built to support your roof not hold weight across the bottom of them for storage.

fastpat · 02-06-2006, 08:06 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Moses
I thought about that. Going through a 24" opening sort of limits what you can haul up into the attic. Roughing out a bigger opening shouldn't be too much more difficult.

Basically, you frame in the opening almost like a window opening before mounting the pre-built window. I'd consider doing the framing first, above the sheetrock and then cutting the sheet rock when finished so that you cut just the right amount. Or you could cut an undersized hole for access, trimming up the sheetrock later, then adding some moulding to make it look finished.

fastpat · 02-06-2006, 08:17 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by madmmac
When you say scissor brace are you meaning manufactured trusses? If you are, they need to be designed and ordered specifcally for attic storage...most homes are not.

Most are built to support your roof not hold weight across the bottom of them for storage.

My architect pointed out that he, and most architects these days, design the size of the roof truss they want and let a truss builder handle the engineering of the actual truss, which is what we're going to do. He said he used to spend the time doing the calculations, but found out the truss maker was doing it all again based on their particular type of fasteners, and for liability reasons. He doesn't waste his time, and my money, doing this twice.

We expect to gain stand up height attic space at least ten feet wide, knee wall space 5-6 feet wider, and something like 55-60 feet long. That's only changing part of the trusses out.

madmmac · madmmac's Garage

I was replying to Moses, since it was his thread.

daepp · 02-06-2006, 08:30 AM

I installed the Werner tall aluminum pull down ladder. It is installed correctly, however it fails to close snug against the ceiling. This is where its spring mechanism is at its "least sprung" tension. I have been unable to find a workaround for it.

Moses · 02-06-2006, 08:37 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by madmmac
When you say scissor brace are you meaning manufactured trusses? If you are, they need to be designed and ordered specifcally for attic storage...most homes are not.

Actually what I have is a Fink truss. Not ideally designed for load on the bottom, but I won't be storing much weight up there.

RickM · RickM's Garage

Quote:

Originally posted by daepp
I installed the Werner tall aluminum pull down ladder. It is installed correctly, however it fails to close snug against the ceiling. This is where its spring mechanism is at its "least sprung" tension. I have been unable to find a workaround for it.

This happens whe the installation is not 100% plumb and square. You may want to double check the install.

fastpat · 02-06-2006, 09:26 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Moses
Actually what I have is a Fink truss. Not ideally designed for load on the bottom, but I won't be storing much weight up there.

That's pretty much what I had in the house in CA. Since the trusses were made from 2x4 lumber, it wouldn't hold much weight either. I laid a floor in it around the trusses with pre-cut 2' x 4' plywood pieces from Home Depot or Lowe's. I used screws to fasten them down, cheap zine plated one, about one or 1 1/4 inches long. I have two cordless drills, loaded one with a drill bit that countersunk, and the other with a phillips driver bit, and went after it. If I had to notch out for the trusses, power lines, or plumbing, I did that with a saber saw.

You can do quite a bit in a day.

Moses · 02-06-2006, 09:49 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by fastpat
That's pretty much what I had in the house in CA. Since the trusses were made from 2x4 lumber, it wouldn't hold much weight either. I laid a floor in it around the trusses with pre-cut 2' x 4' plywood pieces from Home Depot or Lowe's. I used screws to fasten them down, cheap zine plated one, about one or 1 1/4 inches long. I have two cordless drills, loaded one with a drill bit that countersunk, and the other with a phillips driver bit, and went after it. If I had to notch out for the trusses, power lines, or plumbing, I did that with a saber saw.

You can do quite a bit in a day.

I have 7 feet between the bases of the truss. It's a 3 car garage, so there's plenty of room for light weight storage. The trusses are 2X6. I am also thinking about raising the ceiling in a few spots to accomodate a 4 post lift.

fastpat · 02-06-2006, 10:07 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Moses
I have 7 feet between the bases of the truss. It's a 3 car garage, so there's plenty of room for light weight storage. The trusses are 2X6. I am also thinking about raising the ceiling in a few spots to accomodate a 4 post lift.

Yeah, man, every gear head's dream tool, a hydraulic lift. There's a good picture on the Ultimate garage web site that shows what I think they call a coffered ceiling.

Let's see,

Yes, it works for now. If it breaks, here's the url:
http://www.ultimategarage.com/dynapack996tt-d.jpg

M.D. Holloway · 02-06-2006, 10:14 AM

Moses - why not bury the lift in the floor - or have a pit?

Moses · 02-06-2006, 10:34 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by LubeMaster77
Moses - why not bury the lift in the floor - or have a pit?

The garage floor is concrete slab. I don't need to store a car on a lift, just something to make work easier. A 2 post lift world be just the thing, pretty compact, inexpensive and allows brake and wheel work.

fastpat · 02-06-2006, 11:10 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Moses
The garage floor is concrete slab. I don't need to store a car on a lift, just something to make work easier. A 2 post lift world be just the thing, pretty compact, inexpensive and allows brake and wheel work.

I'll probably go with these guys after I built my super gigantic garage, hopefully next fall or the following spring. I bought my low clearance jack from them, great service.

LeeH · 02-07-2006, 05:35 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by daepp
I installed the Werner tall aluminum pull down ladder. It is installed correctly, however it fails to close snug against the ceiling. This is where its spring mechanism is at its "least sprung" tension. I have been unable to find a workaround for it.

Mine closes all the way, but the plywood is warped a bit on the end with the pull making it look like it's not.