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				Flushing out Heater Core
			 
			My heater in my Olds has stopped working; actually, it's effectiveness diminished slowly over time and it no longer works. A friend, who is a mechanic told me that it is very likely that the heater core is simply clogged and needs to be flushed out. Is there an easy way to do this? I know that on many American cars, replacing a heater core is a major job that involves taking off the passenger side dash and/or fender! Can anyone steer me toward an easier solution? 
				__________________ Current Stable: Black 07 Porsche 987 Cayman S: Long-Tube Headers; FabSpeed Exhaust; VividRacing ECU Tune; IPD Plenum; 997GT3 Throttle Body. Blue 1983 Porsche 928S. 1985.5 Porsche 944 Rat Rod. 2011 Acura MDX. 2008 Mazda 3. Gone But Not Forgotten:Garnet Red 86 Porsche 951("The Purple Pig"). Alpine White 83 Porsche 944 ("Alpine Wolf"). Guards Red 84 Porsche 944. | ||
|  01-30-2007, 11:33 AM | 
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			I'd say it's usually tough on any car. I've replaced a few on Japanese cars and they were a bear.  Sure it's not leaking?  If the inlet and outlet tubes are available on the engine side of the firewall then perhaps you can do a simple pressure test with a tool like a Mighty-vac. If you have to remove I'd suggest bringing it to a radiator shop (if they still exist) and have it steam cleaned, boiled/soaked, pressure tested, repaired (if needed) and painted. Many don't bother as the time to R&R demands replacing with new. 
				__________________ Warren & Ron, may you rest in Peace. | ||
|  01-30-2007, 11:41 AM | 
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| Registered Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Linn County, Oregon 
					Posts: 48,583
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			You might try flushing.  Check an auto parts store.  Prestone used to sell a flush kit...it involved placing a hose fitting in one of the heater lines...I still run one on my old Dodge.  Pretty cool, it allows you to use hose water pressure to "backflush" the entire system.  Auto parts store also sell a bottle of stuff you can use prior to a coolant change designed to eat lime buildup, etc.  Like I said, MIGHT work...
		 
				__________________ "Now, to put a water-cooled engine in the rear and to have a radiator in the front, that's not very intelligent." -Ferry Porsche (PANO, Oct. '73) (I, Paul D. have loved this quote since 1973. It will remain as long as I post here.) | ||
|  01-30-2007, 11:42 AM | 
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| Writer/Teacher | Quote: 
 
				__________________ Current Stable: Black 07 Porsche 987 Cayman S: Long-Tube Headers; FabSpeed Exhaust; VividRacing ECU Tune; IPD Plenum; 997GT3 Throttle Body. Blue 1983 Porsche 928S. 1985.5 Porsche 944 Rat Rod. 2011 Acura MDX. 2008 Mazda 3. Gone But Not Forgotten:Garnet Red 86 Porsche 951("The Purple Pig"). Alpine White 83 Porsche 944 ("Alpine Wolf"). Guards Red 84 Porsche 944. | ||
|  01-30-2007, 11:44 AM | 
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| Registered Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Linn County, Oregon 
					Posts: 48,583
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			The overflow comes out of the radiator cap fitting.  The kit includes an L shaped plug-in unit so the flow can be directed. Mine was cheap..$10 range if I recall. But I bought it over 20 years ago... 
				__________________ "Now, to put a water-cooled engine in the rear and to have a radiator in the front, that's not very intelligent." -Ferry Porsche (PANO, Oct. '73) (I, Paul D. have loved this quote since 1973. It will remain as long as I post here.) | ||
|  01-30-2007, 11:59 AM | 
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| Registered Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: outta here 
					Posts: 53,701
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 Of course, this may not be the problem. If you have a car that runs heated water through the core at all times and regulates the temperature by blending warm and cool air, you may have a problem with the other parts of the system. JR | ||
|  01-31-2007, 05:53 AM | 
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